Jump to content

Past Time

Members
  • Content Count

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Past Time

  1. Right? Looks a lot stronger and I'd be willing to pay whatever to do over night shipping so I don't lose another week of our 3 month summer up here. MY biggest concern is that this is the symptom of a bad throw out bearing or pressure plate and changing this part will still lead me to more repairs and more importantly down time fixing issues in the trans. I'm OK with that too but at this point I just want it all done at the same time so I can get back to enjoying the car this summer. The rest of the car is running great (sound of me knocking on wood) but this is really bringing me down. I have to admit I'm close to looking at a T5 and a hydraulic clutch set up just to put this behind me but I fear having something like this installed would be $6K to $8K. Anyone have a realistic cost to have the conversion done? While I'm good doing light work I don't have a lift, trans jack or any of the higher end tools to attempt something this large on my own.
  2. I can't get to the car today as I'm doing the family thing and promised not crawl under the car. I'll get back under the car tomorrow, pull the rod and spring and see how much movement and how easily the fork moves. If I remember correctly I only had maybe inch of free travel before I couldn't move the lever by hand. It wasn't much. The way that Z-bar looks to me that's where my bind/loss of movement is. To me it looks like its bent a good 1/2" out which would account for the difference in adjustment from what I'm seeing on my car to others I'm seeing on line. Why would the bar bend like this? I've read that bending a Z-bar isn't that uncommon but don't understand how this happens. The only thing I can think of is possibly a bind in the throw out bearing. Can't say what any of the PO's have done but I've never raced or beat on the car. this is a 351 2V so I can't see someone installing some kind of race clutch/pressure plate for this application. If I have to replace this is there any advantage going with a setup like this? https://opentrackerracing.com/product/roller-z-bar-clutch-rods-351c-351w-1967-1970-mustang/ The bar itself looks much stronger and I like the idea of the heim joints on the rod ends. I like doing these jobs just once if at all possible. The other big challenge I'm seeing here Z-bar wise is I have a Cleveland and everything I'm seeing is for a Windsor. I think NPD has one that says usable as a replacement" which would seem to be the best I'll get. The good news is NPD is like 45 minutes away. Thanks again for everyone's responses. I feel like we're zeroing in on this.....
  3. Here's a picture looking down from the engine bay by the brake booster. Does the E Bar look bent to you? I'm getting the feeling this may be where my bind is.
  4. Yep was just out there and went through most of this. I removed the spring on the fork, when I push the for back I have about 1/8" - 1/4" of play from the tip of the rod to the cup on the fork. Note that the adjustment in the rod is all the way to the end now so I doubt I could pull anymore adjustment into the rod. I just went out and grabbed the Z bar from the top and tried to move it. If I pulled hard I can feel play in the assembly but I may just be taking up the slack at the rod. It doesn't sound smooth at all when I do this and I can mover the bar side to side about 1/2". I got the car about 2 months ago with no documentation on the clutch. The clutch seems to lock up fine and will easily stall the car. When the rod was adjusted properly it released fine and drove very well.
  5. Just went back out and took another look. The car is super clean underneath, no rust at all and all the nuts/bots look new. Looked at the trans mount on the tail shaft and the bolts there look new as well as the mount. No signs of ripping, tearing or damage. Did the same as with the motor mounts they look perfect as well. The adjustment on the clutch rod is the same as when the car drove perfectly 60 miles ago.. Unless the equalizer rod somehow bent or there's something going on in the bell housing or a bent/damaged fork or throw out bearing that's sticking on the output shaft I'm at a total lose.
  6. I have not. Are you talking about on the cross brace?
  7. Yeah I'm going to get under there again and take a look. No chance this is a bad pressure plate?
  8. So everything seemed fine for a while but now I'm back to square one. As I drove the car the pedal started sinking lower and lower towards the floor. I'm at the point now where the linkage is adjusted all the way out to get that 1/8" of play but depressing the clutch pedal won't disengage the clutch. The car doesn't want to go into gear and grinds going into reverse. When I adjusted it this morning everything worked perfectly but deteriorated to this in the course of about 60 miles. Any ideas? I'm thinking pressure plate?
  9. Stangs..... Just how bad is this to do? I looked at the kit and it says it needs to be welded in and since welding in not in my skill set well that would have to be out sourced. I do plan on doing some updates that include both dash bezels so I'll have the dash apart but not sure how nuts I need to be about this. Update to where I'm at now..... I finally got the spring back on and replaced the rod with the one I had the picture of but unfortunately it came in sharp as a pencil on the end. Yeah that lasted about 50 miles before the end was worn down about 1/4" which threw the clutch rod adjustment out of whack. I just got another from NPD and the end is much more blunt and rounded off. It's also about 1/4" longer. Both have the same part number and are both made by ACP. Got a third one from Amazon this afternoon and it's the same as the first one I got. The quality control on these is terrible. It's hard to see in the picture but if you look at the top one it's much pointier than the lower one. The lower rod is also 1/4" shorter than the top one. So what happens is the top one's point will wear down about another 1/4" so now you've lost a 1/2" in total length of the rod and will be all the way out to the end to get it into adjustment. Can't believe the metal they're using on these rods is that soft. So yeas the Amazon rod it going back too. As petty as it may seem that first rod is going back the next time I'm at NPD which seems to be getting pretty often lately. That rod was $23 and basically lasted 50 miles before it's near junk now. I'm going to try the new rod but there's a good chance I'm going to end up using the swivel on the new rod with the old rod. That one was in there probably 50 years and looks better than that POS first rod I got.
  10. Oh wow thats simple and brilliant. Thanks you so much for the tip. Attaching to the firewall is still a carnival game but I had it once so I'll get it again. Thanks for including that picture too. It confirms that I had the wrong spring (which wasn't working) all along and I'll willing to bet this will fix the top travel problem.
  11. Thank you for all the responses. I got a chance to pick up some parts at NPD (nice having a warehouse somewhat local to be able to go to) and installed most of what I picked up. I started with the new lower rod and bushing. This fixed part of the problem. If you look at the picture below you can see how the feral the adjustment rod passes through has become oblong. There's about a quarter inch of slop in it and the threads were binding in the hole. The bushing was also worn through and letting the feral sit on an angle which made the binding worse. The end of the rod that connects to the clutch fork lever is also very worn down in comparison to the replacement. After replacing these parts the pedal no longer sticks at the lower travel of the pedal throw. That said I don't believe I have the rod adjusted correctly as the pedal sits high in the car. So I do believe I've made progress here. Just need to figure out what I should be looking for on the adjustment for the lower rod. Last thing I want to do is adjust it incorrectly and screw up the throw out bearing. When I put the new rod in I basically measured the length of the existing rod from tip to the top of the locked nuts and did the same for the the new one but I don't think it's adjusted correctly as it sits. So looking at the 69 Diagram. What is is that they're showing for the adjustment? They show free play but I don't see a value. I'm assuming the 15 - 20 lb ft is the torque to lock the nuts together. Next was the upper return spring. I found the longer spring in the picture laying on top of the equalizer rod. As part of the parts run I picked up the lower one in the picture which I was able to identify and cross reference at several Mustang sites as the correct spring. Unfortunately I was not able to get this spring in. The master cylinder and clutch rod make getting it hooked to the firewall something akin to a carnival game. After about 45 minutes I finally was able to get it attached to the firewall but then could get it attached to the equalizer bar. Unless someone has the secret on how to do this I think the master cylinder is going to have to come out to give me room to attach the new spring.
  12. Hmmmm. If that's good then does anyone have any idea why the clutch pedal would be sticking coming up the last 2"?
  13. Hey guys, back again with a question for the experts..... My clutch pedal has been sticking the last 5 - 10% of the travel up. I've sprayed everything down with WD40 and checked to see that all the return and balance springs were there and attached, they are. I then ran across this on the lower clutch rod at the swivel. Someone double nutted the rod going to the the clutch lever. If I move it the rod by hand the rod will bind in the swivel and sometimes move forward after sticking and sometimes not which is what I seem to be experiencing in the car now. There's also no nut at the far end of the swivel which lets the rod move all around. I'm also a bit concerned about the angle the rod is on. Should I be concerned? Then again maybe I'm over thinking this and it's just because of the slop in the swivel joint now. I did do a bit of research and found the Scott Drake replacement part Noticed that they have a nut on either side of the swivel which makes a whole lot more sense to me. Which is the correct way to install this and if this is wrong what should the adjustment be so that when I take it apart and put it back together I don't screw it up. Also should the swivel thread on to the rod? The one that's in there now is free floating and the rod has quite a bit of slop in the hole in the swivel. I've attached pictures of my set up and the Scott Drake rod for my car. It kind of makes me think someone really pouched this in. What do the experts say? I have to say I'm learning a lot from this forum. Thank you for your help..... Bill
  14. Wow, some great information here. Thank you for taking the time to post this. And yeah mine's garbage.
  15. This is how it was explain to me as well. The issue with mine is that there's no functioning diaphragm in the actuator now. It's basically an open vacuum circuit right now acting as if the line were disconnected. I have the new one ordered and will see what happens with it. Like all reproduction parts some are great and some well, don't work at all. It'll be a quick yea or neigh as to if this gets replaced. If the new motor actually works, wonderful. If not I'll do as York did and ditch the system. On mine I'll probably leave it in place to make it look stock but shunt the vacuum line going to it to eliminate the vacuum leak the open diaphragm is causing as it sits. I get the feeling this part hasn't worked since the car was restored and nobody noticed.
  16. Talked to a guy at Ecklers today about this. His take was that if I was unable to pull a vacuum with a hose directly attached to the actuator then it was bad an basically acting like a vacuum leak. I ordered the part from them with assurance that if it operated the same I could return it. I'll update with my findings so if anyone else runs into this they'll have a definitive answer. Thank you everyone for your responses.
  17. My manifold is in great shape, hot air tube is there. Do you still have yours? if so could you check to see if that vacuum motor actuates with you put vacuum on the motor?
  18. Do you know if I should be able to pull a vacuum on the motor? If I put a line directly to the motor it is wide open, basically nothing happens when I apply vacuum. It's like it just going to a hoe on the other side.
  19. Hello, first post here looking for some information that seems it should be obvious but..... I recently picked up a 70 Mach1 that while in great condition had been sitting and has/had a bunch of minor issues (loose nuts, bolts, minor leaks, adjustments and such) that I've been picking off. The latest which I'm not sure is an issue is the vacuum motor on the air cleaner snorkel. I noticed that the door is always open and I'm unable to move it by hand, at least not with the amount of force I'm comfortable applying. I thought I would try test it's operation with a Mitty Vac attached to the vacuum line going to the vacuum motor and noticed that I'm unable to draw a vacuum from the line. I've done this test with other vacuum motors and the diaphragm moves then holds the vacuum. This motor would appear to be completely open as I'm unable to build any vacuum. I tried blowing into the line and the air passes through it easily. Not sure if this is normal but based on what I'm seeing I can't think it could be as this is basically a vacuum leak as it sits. Can anyone confirm the correct operation and if indeed the motor is toast? If it were a $5 or $10 part I would replace it and call it a day either way but these things are going for $130 and I'd hate to get one only to find out this is somehow normal operation. Thank you for any help..... Bill
×
×
  • Create New...