kblagron

Love that look. I did the door inserts in the same silver as my gauge bezels. 

Cool tip. I did not know that book existed. 

I finally did sort out, but the official fastener should be for this map light.
For those of you who do not have the Ford fastener manual, I have found this to be one of my most important resources, as I did not disassemble all of my car, and only had coffee cans full of hardware when I purchased it
The assembly manuals have references to every fastener, and the Ford fastener manual has a cross reference that shows the exact hardware that was used by the factory at the time.
It actually shows photographs of what the fastener should look like, and it has a very detailed reference section on the type of finish, and so forth that was used by the factory for these fasteners, including the markings.
It’s worth the money, it’s actually not that expensive.  This allowed me to go to local fastener shop, and get what I need for these miscellaneous fasteners, that are not easily procured in these interior or exterior or body kits
An example here shows the drawing out of the assembly manual, with the map, light fastener circled, and then that fastener number is shown in the Ford fastener, manual, cross reference, and it takes you right to the page which shows the type of fastener it is.
In this case, it’s a number six pan head sheet metal screw that is three-quarter of an inch long.
I’m actually going to use the number six screw, with a washer, and mine will be stainless
 
 

Oh, that’s very interesting with your rev limiter, good job troubleshooting that
 

I went with this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDM-PCE106-1007
Height wise it was fine with a stock manifold (351c) and a summit carb.  The adjustment holes were off, and I had to drill new holes on the base plate.  I think it looks good installed.
 

Sounds like the brake booster has failed, but I am no expert.  You could put a wheel (or multiple wheels) up on a jack and with the car running, have someone spin the wheel while in neutral and see if they stop when you press on the brakes.

I went with this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDM-PCE106-1007
Height wise it was fine with a stock manifold (351c) and a summit carb.  The adjustment holes were off, and I had to drill new holes on the base plate.  I think it looks good installed.
 

I went with this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDM-PCE106-1007
Height wise it was fine with a stock manifold (351c) and a summit carb.  The adjustment holes were off, and I had to drill new holes on the base plate.  I think it looks good installed.
 

I went with this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDM-PCE106-1007
Height wise it was fine with a stock manifold (351c) and a summit carb.  The adjustment holes were off, and I had to drill new holes on the base plate.  I think it looks good installed.
 

I went with this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDM-PCE106-1007
Height wise it was fine with a stock manifold (351c) and a summit carb.  The adjustment holes were off, and I had to drill new holes on the base plate.  I think it looks good installed.
 

While I waited.... I took care of some surface rust then painted the floor with some Eastwood rust encapsulator. 
Then I did the following for heat and soundproofing. 
1. Sound Deadner - pick your favorite brand. I had some left over from a past project. 
2. Decoupling - I used "Design Engineering Under Carpet Lite" (Carpet Lite)
3. ACC's Essex Carpet with the Mass Backing. It's also molded, and worked great. (Mass Backing)
Also, If your going to tackle something like this - do yourself a favor and purchase  10 inch heavy duty scissors, they cut thru all these products, and made the carpet install a breeze. 

 

Ding Ding Ding!  Free beer for Mach1 Driver tomorrow!

Looks great!  Out of curiosity, did you order your carpet kit direct from ACC or through one of the many vendors?

Bob I am the same no more big crowds & traffic. As I get older I hate it more & more. I have been to Carlisle, Pa events a couple times, no more.

Ya, I know a couple of guys who are going. I don't really care for the big events, crowds and heavy traffic ain't my thing. It's only about a 3 hour drive, and I've got a buddy who would put me up for the weekend, but that ain't enough to sway me. 
 

Thanks, everyone for the feedback.  I should be able to run plenty of caster as my UCA already as a (+) 3 due to geometry.  I will let you know what others say and document what I do.

Won a award at the little longhorn make a wish car show... I also played a little chickenshit bingo....
 

Ethanol Free 91 is still available around me (separate HOSE even at my local station), so that is all I run and thankfully Ethanol is not a concern for me.
I've also thought about EFI, but way too much stuff to modify or change which makes it even more difficult to try to maintain my desired "stock look".   Plus the tuning aspect of it scares me.
When the engine was built in 1987, I originally ran a stock Autolite 4300 carb and swear it got better MPG's then.   I switched to the Holley 600 CFM Double Pumper within a year or so and ran that for 32 years.   It has 30 over TRW Forged Pistons (about 9.5 CR), a Crower 280HDP street/strip cam in it that gives it a nice & healthy sounding idle, and behind it is a Wide Ratio Toploader 4 Speed and 3.50:1 T-Lok 9".
When adjusting the idle screws / setting the idle on this Summit carb, I could not get the vacuum into the "normal" range no matter what I did ... as if there was a big vacuum leak somewhere.   I don't remember if this was the same with the Holley and at the time I did nor feel like swapping it back on to find out.   During all my tests to try and find this vacuum leak, I stuffed a rag into the top of the secondaries at idle and this will snub it out.   So I think there may be an adjustment that may need to be done with the secondary butterflies (unless this is normal).   Another reason swapping the Holley back on is even more tempting to see if a rag in it's secondaries will also snub it out !!    
Other than the 3.50 gears (3000 RPM @ 63 MPH), you would think it could get better MPG's ... at least around town.   I always felt that the Holley could use a little tweaking by someone with more carb knowledge than me and obviously now the Summit carb could definitely benefit from an expert's touch.
It starts, runs, and drives great "as-is" though, so I've just not had the time or ambition to play around with it any further.
 
Bottom line is this carb is definitely worth the cost & effort to try out on any small block Ford before the big switch to EFI.
Doug 
 
         

I have to do mine soon.  I was going to paint them, including the "Mach 1", then use a block and sand it down to the metal.  

Tonight was busy but necessary work of grinding down welds in the wheel wells and primering the bare metal. Nothing sexy.

the replacement clutch setup that went in last year is operating and holding well now.  i know i'm shifting at 7800+.  i also have the throttle adjusted so it's opening all the way.  just trying to find the right time in the next few weeks to get it to the track.  except for some shock adjustments and removing the tool kit from the back seat, i will track it just as the car is setup for the street.
 

Decided to work on the MACH 1 trim. They where not on the car when I bought it. Luckily all the pieces where there, just scratched up. 
I took some steel wool, and cleaned up the MACH 1 down to the bare metal. Then Masked those letters,  scuffed, primed, painted. 
The paint is Krylon Metallic dark metal #2769, and the Krylon clear coat on top. I think this color works well with the wheels. The Chrome strips where in ok shape, I might replace them, but they will work for now. 
All the studs had to be repaired, so I drilled them out, and epoxied some bolt onto the trim. As for the clips, I was able to find some at NAPA #665-1917 that worked. 
 
 

PS Mach 1 rocker installed. 
 

Don't forget to figure in your tire size. Plenty of online calculators to compute this. 
I have a T5Z behind my 351 Cleveland, with a 9inch 3.00 open diff. My TZ5 is the following: 
T5Z (MDL purchase)- 2.95, 1.94, 1.34, 1, .63 OD
Rear - P235/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (28.9)
Front - P215/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (26.9)
Currently when I shift into 5th, the RPS drop below 2000K, at 75MPH. The Cleveland does not like that, it likes higher RPMs. 
4th gear is used the most on the highway.
Planning on changing out the 3:00, leaning towards  3:55. I still want a usable 1st gear. 
 

Passenger side really came out nice .a few days of drying time and i am ready to make the molds .