kblagron

You might want to look at a build thread.  @BuckeyeDemon has one here that is about as detailed as any
.  If you go over to the vintage-mustang.com and look for my build thread (user name kblagron), I cover it in a good bit of detail as well for a 1970 with fold down seats.

You might want to look at a build thread.  @BuckeyeDemon has one here that is about as detailed as any
.  If you go over to the vintage-mustang.com and look for my build thread (user name kblagron), I cover it in a good bit of detail as well for a 1970 with fold down seats.

I have had this 36 grill for a long time ,every time I walk by it I think I should do somthing with it. The main shell is actually pretty straight but it sat on the ground so long it rusted the bottom ,it needs some grill bars replaced and just happens I make them . 
I trimmed the bottom off the really bad side ,made a paper template off a good grill I have and hammered out the piece got the new piece welded in am I am real happy with the turn out. I have to make two more pieces to finish out the nose and a patch for the other side ,it will make a great wall decoration when I am finished. 






upload images

Welcome to the forum. I recommend doing as little as possible to get it running while your dad is still around. 
I have had a 750, 680, and currently a 600 cfm Summit M2008 carb on my stroked 393 with AFR 185 heads. The 600 is plenty of carb, and it has never run better than right now. I have a small 268 hydraulic flat tappit cam, and still had to fly cut the pistons to clear the 2.10 valves. 
Mach1 Driver is correct about the 2v (H code) and 4v (M code) having different compression ratios, the M code 4v had 10.7:1 I believe, and 290hp, which ain't bad. 
Just remember when you change one thing on these cars, it affects three others, which you have to address. 
Good luck on getting her back to burning rubber.

Our old girls will never be a 1000 hp ZR1, but you can definitely pep them up and have fun doing it, so here are my two cents.
So if you are planning on bumping it to 392 in the future it must be a 351w. Is it a 2V or 4V? The 4Vs have higher compression. Keep in mind that a 351w in a 69 doesn't have a lot of hood clearance when planning for a intake and air cleaner. The stock manifold in either 2v or 4v is only 3" tall. If you don't mind drop down air cleaners its not a big issue. The carb would pencil out at 550, but 650 won't kill it. I like the Summit M2008 series because they fixed all the problems of a Holley and they were actually designed by them.
AFR has been owned by an investment firm for a few years now and I haven't heard how that has affected the products, but TF is still good as far as I know, and new aluminum heads will definitely wake it up. If you go with roller rockers be sure to get a high quality set. When one of those comes apart it dumps a lot of parts in the engine.
I know most people go with headers, but tests show that they really don't help all that much and are not as quiet as cast iron manifolds. IMO, A big lumpy cam, headers and loud mufflers will make you smile only if you drive it for short distances and don't plan on talking or listening to tunes while doing it. It depends on how you are going to drive it. Back in the day, most muscle cars had a nice rumble, but still allowed conversation.
If you don't mind changing points occasionally, you don't have to go with an electronic ignition. They raced these things with points, and nothing electronic lasts for 60 years. Proof of this is that none of these cars have the original radios- they died long ago. The only thing an electronic ignition will do is relieve your wallet- it won't make it run better.
Once you get it running again, you will want to do the Arning drop to fix the pathetic Falcon suspension in these cars. This type of suspension is designed for hydraulic shocks. Roller perches are the highest recommended upgrade.
https://www.youtube.com/user/EatonDetroitSpring

Wow, i had this exact question in my head and haven't gotten around to doing any research yet. 
Glad it was answered for you and also me!
I haven't been here for a while and I've missed a lot 

@TexasEd dude, you hit a home run with your restoration. The Mustang Steve Bash will be up in Hurst TX this year, and just a short three hour drive for you. Hope to see you there.

So I pulled the firewall harness off today.  I'll post pictures on the other site.  
I had one pin that was low.  I think it was for the brake warning light that I've never seen come on or not sure I have one. One of the pins for the LH Front turn signal was not in the connector at all, the pin did not go through the plug.   Got it hooked back up also figured out I had some wiring wrong with the hood scoop harness. Everything works now.

I know this is an old thread, but wow!  So much great info.  I just installed a blinker switch cam and now I have issues with my brake lights.  I am a electrical wiring illiterate, but one glance at Mach 1 Drivers schematic and it was obvious that I wired the cam incorrectly.  So easy to understand.  Thank you.

Today I spent some time in the garage working on the Mustang. I finished stripping off the old paint & surface rust from the front valance & removed the gravel guard to start removing the old paint. I finished installing the Koni STR.T front shocks. When we moved from NJ to Virginia I must have lost the lower shock mount hardware. I tried at several places to find nuts for the shocks with no luck so I sent an e mail to Koni asking them if I could buy a package of the lower mounting hardware. The person who responded to my e mail asked for my address that they would mail me out a pack of the lower mounting hardware. I got it 3 days later, awesome customer service.

Merry Christmas to everyone here.

I actually got both of my Mustangs in the same garage for the first time.


https://ibb.co/zn72BQQ
https://ibb.co/xSHhjvG
 
 

Yup, that's a cleveland. Thermostat in the block not on the intake.

Ok, this one is more appropriate.  Gotta love the guy with the pipe and the checkered pants...…     
 

Here is a good one.
Ford mustang veteran comercial - Google Search
 

It turns out the battery will not hold a charge, so I need to get a new battery. It is going to wait until after Christmas. I hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving.

Probably the most common complaint. Personally I wouldn't mess with what I consider the most important system on the car. You could go with manual brakes, but I would stick with the combination of parts that Henry's engineers selected. I have low expectations for aftermarket parts.

I got the starter installed & the wires run today. Battery was dead so I had to charge it. Will test it tomorrow.

No way!  It's impossible that I was correct!!  Just ask my ex-wife!

Thanks everyone! I ended up running a ground all the way back to the fuel tank. AAW and dakota both confirmed what everyone here said. It could be run all the way back or just grounded up by the module. I appreciate all the responses.

I ordered a new PMGR starter & it was delivered today. I am on vacation for a week so I should get it installed & tested before the end of my vacation.

I actually made a set when they were not available ,wasn't to hard to do . I may still have the patern  I made here some where

Thanks for the response. The whole kit is over $200 and I really don't want to spend that for one small bracket. I'm not very skilled with a welder so I was hoping to start with a new bracket. I may need to try utilize the damaged one, if I can't find a replacement bracket.