69Mach1 M code

While we're on the subject of solenoids, I would recommend to anyone who has an older Ford vehicle with the solenoid mounted on the inner fender to occasionally have someone start the vehicle while you observe the solenoid. This should be done with the ambient lighting low enough to visually observe an electrical arc if one is present, preferably at night.
I had an older Mustang with the original solenoid still in it, no problems with starting at all. My Dad started the vehicle while I just so happened to be looking into the engine bay and sure enough, a large arc of electrical current ran from the housing to one of the mounting screws. After close examination I could see a small fracture had formed in the housing after about 50 years of age and heat cycling.

While we're on the subject of solenoids, I would recommend to anyone who has an older Ford vehicle with the solenoid mounted on the inner fender to occasionally have someone start the vehicle while you observe the solenoid. This should be done with the ambient lighting low enough to visually observe an electrical arc if one is present, preferably at night.
I had an older Mustang with the original solenoid still in it, no problems with starting at all. My Dad started the vehicle while I just so happened to be looking into the engine bay and sure enough, a large arc of electrical current ran from the housing to one of the mounting screws. After close examination I could see a small fracture had formed in the housing after about 50 years of age and heat cycling.

Having spent time as a Marine Grunt many moons ago, quotes from Full Metal Jacket have always been near and dear to me. Platoon is another favorite that is full of memorable quotes. 
Since this is a car forum, I'll pick a quote from the classic Pulp Fiction and clean it up a bit; "What's more chicken than messin' with a man's automobile? I mean, don't mess with another man's vehicle. It's just against the rules".

I attended the Charlotte AutoFair a couple of weeks back and came across a used Edelbrock RPM Performer 2181 with the following measurements:
Rear height = 4-7/8 inches (4.875) and Front height = 3-5/8 inches (3.625). It was not in the best condition with several stripped threads so I passed.
Thanks for all of your detailed work, Mach1 Driver. Using the Weiand looks more promising now than it did in the beginning. I've got a ways to go before I drop the motor back in so I won't be able to confirm the actual clearances for a while.

Recap, I have a bone stock 351w that is a 2v. Curiosity got the better of me so I finally pulled my carb and distributor to measure my intake manifold on the car. As stangs-R-me speculated, the 2V is the same height as the 4V, or 3.00". Using playdoh on the stock air cleaner in four positions, it is 2.016" to the hood at the closest position. This is with the 1.025" high aluminum spacer that the PCV connects to.
The Weiand is 4.715 tall so even with a 1" spacer and stock air cleaner my math says it should clear the hood by 0.300. Double check please.
Edit: If you have a Mach1 hood scoop (not shaker), the three bolts on each side need shortening to the nut. The following numbers are with the 1" PCV spacer. The front and rear bolts appear to be outboard of the raised ring on the filter lid where the air filter contacts. However, the center nuts are in the way. You could remove them entirely or maybe shorten the height of the nuts. It is difficult to get a good number with playdoh but I calculate clearance to the nut at 0.243 to 0.055 using the Weiand Stealth manifold.  With the Edelbrock 7181 it is even worse with clearance to the nut of 0.158 or actual interference of 0.030. The Edelbrock 2181 Performer would have at least 0.700 clearance to the nut.

The flange does go up, but on convertibles (which I seem to work on all the time) it is removed. The two pieces of the torque box weld to the upper seam area of the toe board and should fit fairly decent. I prefer to butt weld all my repairs but you can see the remnants of the spot welds in the second picture where it is welded to the top flange of the torque box. I also prefer using two piece torque boxes. Much easier to install.

Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. 
Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here).
The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.

Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. 
Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here).
The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.

Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. 
Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here).
The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.

Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. 
Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here).
The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.

Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. 
Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here).
The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.

Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. 
Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here).
The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.

Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. 
Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here).
The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.

Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. 
Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here).
The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.

Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. 
Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here).
The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.

I measured the Weiand 8023WND intake on the engine and the results are 6 inches in the back and 4-1/2 inches in the front; Carb pad height = 5.25 inches.
I double checked the measurements I posted above for the original cast iron intake and stand by them. The p/n is C90E-9425-E with a casting date of 9E15. I purchased the car in the mid-80's from the original owner. 
The scene where Ken Miles was hammering on the boot to provide clearance for the mandatory spare tire is flashing through my head now ................ 

I measured the Weiand 8023WND intake on the engine and the results are 6 inches in the back and 4-1/2 inches in the front; Carb pad height = 5.25 inches.
I double checked the measurements I posted above for the original cast iron intake and stand by them. The p/n is C90E-9425-E with a casting date of 9E15. I purchased the car in the mid-80's from the original owner. 
The scene where Ken Miles was hammering on the boot to provide clearance for the mandatory spare tire is flashing through my head now ................ 

Thank you to everyone who responded to this thread, and for taking the time for the photos and measurements. It was very informative and hopefully will help someone in the same situation in the future.
I ended up ordering the installation kit # 3735587. The shifter lined up with the console installed. 

Thank you to everyone who responded to this thread, and for taking the time for the photos and measurements. It was very informative and hopefully will help someone in the same situation in the future.
I ended up ordering the installation kit # 3735587. The shifter lined up with the console installed. 

I've referred to Explorer's as Exploder's since the Firestone fiasco. Rather fitting.

Thank you to everyone who responded to this thread, and for taking the time for the photos and measurements. It was very informative and hopefully will help someone in the same situation in the future.
I ended up ordering the installation kit # 3735587. The shifter lined up with the console installed. 

Thanks for your very detailed explanation, Doug. I'll take the dive into the shallow end of the pool this weekend and order the parts. I should have it installed the following weekend to report back.