69Mach1 M code

Attached is a photo of a clip that holds the brake line towards the top of the driveshaft tunnel. Are these clips reusable? If so, how are they removed without too much damage?

Thanks.

I'm going to be replacing several structural components of the undercarriage and wanted to check on the proper sequence of replacement based on feedback from guys that have been through this glorious exercise in fortitude. I'll be replacing the torque boxes, toe boards, floor pan, and floor supports. Is this the proper sequence?

I've been using Upol Weld #2 weld through primer from a spray can for some patch panels. There are a few hard-to-reach spots where the can won't reach so I'd like to try a brush on weld through primer. It doesn't look like Upol makes a brush on primer. The reviews for SEM don't appear favorable. Does anyone have a recommendation for a brush on weld through primer that they've used and like?

I need to do some cleaning up in the area where the round flange extends upward from the lower cowl (inlet for heater box). The original sealant that was spread around the flange and to the far right side edge of the cowl is flaking off, and the rust is deep but not through the entire thickness. I am planning on removing the flange so I can reach in from the passenger footwell. It appears that the flange has a body caulking type sealer between it and the lower cowl. Was there any mechanical means of securing the two together such as a spot weld? I don't see anything except the sealer from underneath but wanted to check with those that have had a better view after removing the top cowl panel (which I don't want to do since the windshield will remain installed).

I'm getting ready to replace torque boxes, floor supports, etc. I only need to replace a couple of small sections on the subframes so I didn't purchase new ones. Can anyone tell me what gauge metal the subframes are so I can purchase a small panel to cut up? I measure 0.080 inches (14 gauge) for the new floor supports but they appear thicker than the subframes.

Thanks for the suggestions. I may be able to salvage mine and live with a little patina. I just read the thread of Ridgerunner making his original repro's. Nice work. Good to know they're available.

The moonskin material that covers the C-pillar panels in the '69 has lost it's adherence to the cardboard backing panels in isolated spots. The moonskin material appears to just be regular headliner material. I could purchase a headliner adhesive such as Weld-On 1829 but was looking for something more readily available. Has anyone tried an adhesive that does not "stain through" to the surface? Also, has anyone purchased C-pillar panels that they are satisfied with? I see some of the reviews on NPD have been mixed. Doesn't look like they extend the moonskin enough to tuck under the rear glass weather striping.

Thank you to everyone who responded to this thread, and for taking the time for the photos and measurements. It was very informative and hopefully will help someone in the same situation in the future. I ended up ordering the installation kit # 3735587. The shifter lined up with the console installed.

I've referred to Explorer's as Exploder's since the Firestone fiasco. Rather fitting.

@Mike65 - Do you remember if the yoke on the pinion shaft from the differential is a 1310 size joint or a larger 1330? The yokes on my original driveshaft from the 351 are 1310's.

Has anyone that went the route of use an aluminum Exploder driveshaft had any problems with clearance in the floor tunnel? The aluminum driveshaft I obtained from a friend is diameter 3.465 inches and the stock steel 351W driveshaft I have is diameter 2.76 inches.

I am swapping out an FMX with a 4-speed toploader. Can anyone tell me the proper amount of engagement between the output shaft splines and the yoke splines? I need to measure the driveshaft length to have it cut and balanced. The toploader did not come with a yoke so I'm starting from scratch.

Thanks for your very detailed explanation, Doug. I'll take the dive into the shallow end of the pool this weekend and order the parts. I should have it installed the following weekend to report back.

Great pics. So it looks like the two mounting bolts that run through the shifter assembly, would actually be tilted, with the bottom one angled rearward, correct? The top mounting bolt would be slightly forward of the two bosses I have to drill and tap? Where is it in relation to the back edge of the opening in the floorboard? The shifter I have looks like the one that RPM posted above. It has a "Z" shape at the bottom before the assembly. What linkage did you use? Is it the original Ford or Hurst linkage? I'm getting close. I can almost smell the unburnt hydrocarbons now ..........

Thanks for the advice and posting the detailed photos. When I called Hurst last week they said I needed mounting kit 3738615. Just by coincidence, the bracket that comes with that kit is the same one I have for the Super Shifter that was on the transmission when I purchased it. The bracket would make contact with the mounting flange of the tail housing so would have to be cut. I still wasn't sure about the shifter mounting holes / angle so I investigated further. After examining the photos above and making some comparisons of others on the net, it looks like I need kit 3735587 which is for a big block Mustang. My transmission was out of a small block '66 Comet . It's amazing how many different combinations of Toploaders were made, plus the variety of Hurst shifters and mounting kits just adds to the joy. I'll post photos once I get things mounted.

RPM, Do you know what adapter plate you used in your above photos? I have a plate from a Super Shifter that may work but it appears I might need to cut off the front 1/3 to get it to clear the mounting flange on the front of the tail housing. Do you remember what linkage you used?

OK, so this project is taking way too long but I'm finally back on it. It's been fun trying to hunt down parts. Attached are a couple of photos that show the tail housing with the tranny mounted in place. The tail housing is C6OR-7A040-C (transmission is out of a 1966 Comet). The Hurst shifter is 3913180 I emailed and called David Kee Toploaders but no response. Can anyone tell me which mounting bracket and linkage would be required?

Thanks for the replies. I can rest a little easier. I'll be sure to drain and replace the oil after a few trips around town.

I've completed a rebuild of a 4-speed toploader including gears, blocking rings, bearings, etc. Everything appears to be working correctly when I shift it by hand. My only concern is the blocking rings sticking to the tapers on the gears once it's installed and on the road. Am I just being paranoid from YouTube overload or is there a better method for final checks before buttoning up the cover?

Thanks for the details, Vicfreg, exactly what I was looking for. I needed a sanity check to make sure it would work on my 69 cast iron heads since Weiand also lists the manifold for the GT40 and TFS heads. I usually purchase parts and install them right away but with the current climate of availability, I'm buying parts when they become available but won't have the vehicle back on the road for several months. Now, onto the fun part ..... torque box replacement.

Not much time to work on the Stang lately but finally got back on it this weekend. I noticed that the Weiand only has one bolt in the rear adjacent to the water passage in the head that is blocked off (only the front passage is used just like the cast iron OEM). They cast a boss into the intake but no bolt hole. The next bolt is all the way on the other side of the #4 and #8 intake runner. Is a bead of silicone around the water jacket enough to prevent leakage?

Thanks for all of your feedback, guys. I ended up with the Weiand 8023WND since the Edelbrock ship date was recently moved from 6/18 to 9/8. Forget it. According to Summit they've been on backorder since January. The question I have is this: After researching the Weiand before ordering, I ordered the 8023 since it was listed as idle - 6800 rpm. The 8023WND is listed as 1500 - 6800 rpm. What Speedway shipped me was the 8023WND. Will I have idle or vacuum problems since I'll be using close to a stock cam and OEM power disc brakes? Also, using a straight edge over the top of the OEM rocker covers as a datum, I measured a difference in carb pad height of +0.508" in the front and +1.395" in the rear versus the cast iron manifold. The motor's out and the car stripped down so I'm keeping my fingers crossed and hope I have hood clearance as some of the previous responses have stated. I'm not worthy of a Shaker so just the stock air cleaner. Thanks again for your help .............

I just purchased a new flywheel for my conversion from auto to manual. I'm also planning on switching from the large and heavy OEM starter to a smaller high torque aftermarket style starter. Does anyone have any tricks to measuring the clearances between the starter and flywheel on a 351W? Since I will eventually have the transmission out and manual bell housing installed, is it possible to access from the opening in the bell housing before installing the clutch? The GM set up is easy since the starter is bolted to the block and the bell housing can be removed. I've seen where some use the "paint method" similar to using gear mesh compound when setting up ring & pinions in a differential. I would prefer to get an actual measurement if possible.

I'm looking for an aluminum intake manifold to replace the original cast iron one on my 69. Same street driven lower RPM range as factory. Does anyone have experience with one that uses the original air cleaner assembly without having problems with hood clearance?