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69Mach1 M code

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Everything posted by 69Mach1 M code

  1. Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here). The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.
  2. I measured the Weiand 8023WND intake on the engine and the results are 6 inches in the back and 4-1/2 inches in the front; Carb pad height = 5.25 inches. I double checked the measurements I posted above for the original cast iron intake and stand by them. The p/n is C90E-9425-E with a casting date of 9E15. I purchased the car in the mid-80's from the original owner. The scene where Ken Miles was hammering on the boot to provide clearance for the mandatory spare tire is flashing through my head now ................
  3. Weiand 8023WND but haven't dropped it back into the car yet. Still working on the unibody. May have to use a dropped air cleaner.
  4. I have an original cast iron 4V intake off the engine and measure 3-5/8 in the rear and 2-3/8 in the front near the thermostat.
  5. Wow, nice work, Latoracing. Looks like it even has the inner lip on the I.D. in place. I've got a similar situation as Casgar where I'll have to repair about 1/3 of the flange and POR15 the balance of it.
  6. I'm in need of the same section that you grafted into your original panel. I think if they used body sealer originally instead of the porous foam gaskets that retained moisture, the metal flange would have held up better.
  7. Does anyone know of a source for just the foot well vent panels? They list them as "side panel, cowl, inner". What you get is the panel that the vent assembly mounts to (what I need) as well as the vertical panel that is positioned adjacent to it. The steel is all good in my car except for the six-sided flange around the vent opening. I could fabricate it but considering the time and welding required I figured I'd buy the panel. Current price per side is $142. Yikes!
  8. The lower section of the frame rail was completely rusted to the old floor support and the adjacent material was deeply pitted and pretty thin. I was able to get a pair of calipers on the upper section of the frame rail that's still in good shape. I threw the calipers on the new floor support as well and found part of the problem. It looks like there is a bit of a draft angle from bottom to top due to forming, about 0.100" or so. The inside width at the bottom of the floor support is about the same as the top of the frame rail so I should be good to go. I may remove the draft angle in the press to square things up.
  9. I purchased new floor supports from NPD. I noticed that they have quite a bit of clearance when positioned over the rear of the original front frame rails. I would guess about 1/8th inch side to side. Is this normal? If not, I'm planning on using shims on each side to take up the clearance(?) Has anyone had a similar scenario?
  10. I am replacing the torque boxes, floor supports, and floor pans in the Mach. What is the recommended method to protect the interior surfaces of the frame rails since I will be welding to them? I've used POR15 on other projects and it's held up well but I didn't use it around any welded areas. Can I use POR up to a couple of inches from the areas to be welded and then use Upol Weld #2? This will be my first time using Upol so I'm not sure how well it prevents rust.
  11. I purchased the two piece torque boxes based on the recommendations of web reviews sometimes making it easier to fit into place. The one detail I'm not sure about; after the two panels are welded together as well as to the rocker / floor support / subframe, is the top of the box where the two torque box panels join then welded to the firewall / toe board? I see several spot welds where the toe board is welded to the angled panel of the torque box about half way down but I'm not sure about the top. I haven't started cutting yet but am just planning things out to do it right.
  12. Attached is a photo of a clip that holds the brake line towards the top of the driveshaft tunnel. Are these clips reusable? If so, how are they removed without too much damage?
  13. I'm going to be replacing several structural components of the undercarriage and wanted to check on the proper sequence of replacement based on feedback from guys that have been through this glorious exercise in fortitude. I'll be replacing the torque boxes, toe boards, floor pan, and floor supports. Is this the proper sequence?
  14. I've been using Upol Weld #2 weld through primer from a spray can for some patch panels. There are a few hard-to-reach spots where the can won't reach so I'd like to try a brush on weld through primer. It doesn't look like Upol makes a brush on primer. The reviews for SEM don't appear favorable. Does anyone have a recommendation for a brush on weld through primer that they've used and like?
  15. I need to do some cleaning up in the area where the round flange extends upward from the lower cowl (inlet for heater box). The original sealant that was spread around the flange and to the far right side edge of the cowl is flaking off, and the rust is deep but not through the entire thickness. I am planning on removing the flange so I can reach in from the passenger footwell. It appears that the flange has a body caulking type sealer between it and the lower cowl. Was there any mechanical means of securing the two together such as a spot weld? I don't see anything except the sealer from underneath but wanted to check with those that have had a better view after removing the top cowl panel (which I don't want to do since the windshield will remain installed).
  16. I'm getting ready to replace torque boxes, floor supports, etc. I only need to replace a couple of small sections on the subframes so I didn't purchase new ones. Can anyone tell me what gauge metal the subframes are so I can purchase a small panel to cut up? I measure 0.080 inches (14 gauge) for the new floor supports but they appear thicker than the subframes.
  17. Thanks for the suggestions. I may be able to salvage mine and live with a little patina. I just read the thread of Ridgerunner making his original repro's. Nice work. Good to know they're available.
  18. The moonskin material that covers the C-pillar panels in the '69 has lost it's adherence to the cardboard backing panels in isolated spots. The moonskin material appears to just be regular headliner material. I could purchase a headliner adhesive such as Weld-On 1829 but was looking for something more readily available. Has anyone tried an adhesive that does not "stain through" to the surface? Also, has anyone purchased C-pillar panels that they are satisfied with? I see some of the reviews on NPD have been mixed. Doesn't look like they extend the moonskin enough to tuck under the rear glass weather striping.
  19. Thank you to everyone who responded to this thread, and for taking the time for the photos and measurements. It was very informative and hopefully will help someone in the same situation in the future. I ended up ordering the installation kit # 3735587. The shifter lined up with the console installed.
  20. I've referred to Explorer's as Exploder's since the Firestone fiasco. Rather fitting.
  21. @Mike65 - Do you remember if the yoke on the pinion shaft from the differential is a 1310 size joint or a larger 1330? The yokes on my original driveshaft from the 351 are 1310's.
  22. Has anyone that went the route of use an aluminum Exploder driveshaft had any problems with clearance in the floor tunnel? The aluminum driveshaft I obtained from a friend is diameter 3.465 inches and the stock steel 351W driveshaft I have is diameter 2.76 inches.
  23. I am swapping out an FMX with a 4-speed toploader. Can anyone tell me the proper amount of engagement between the output shaft splines and the yoke splines? I need to measure the driveshaft length to have it cut and balanced. The toploader did not come with a yoke so I'm starting from scratch.
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