RPM

In case anyone is interested in seeing the difference between zinc phosphate and manganese phosphate, see below. This was done following Palmetto's instructions, part of which is to sandblast within an hour of application. Since I had three media grits I did one each for zinc and one each for manganese (total of 6). They were Garnet 110/120, Glass abrasive 75, and Glass bead 9. You shouldn't use glass bead because it polishes the surface and you want the surface to be rough so it will hold more oil. It is the oil that gives the rust protection, not the phosphates. Anyway, there was no discernable difference "visually" between the different grits on the test samples. Zinc is on the left and manganese on the right

Loaded up a custom tune for the Sniper unit, then went for a drive with the local Mustang Club. 
Did not realize the route was going to take all day, ended up putting 225 miles on the car! 

Wow, cool!   The Pharoah car show?  Everyone wanted to be a Pharoah...
https://youtu.be/PypEDzb5bdU?si=3zl5daZ3PTiFyBmH
 
 

Tulare also has a show coming up called “Cars on K Street”.  I believe it’s set for April 6.

Looks good. If you’re keeping the original wiring harness, you might want to put in some of the wiring on the dash before you put the dash in.
Also, the plastic air-conditioning elbows that go to the round registers, I put those in first as well.

 

May walk through it  

Started polishing my stainless trim. Made a short YouTube video about it. 

New windshield then had it detailed, paint chips filled in, and ceramic coated. 
Not bad for a 10+ year paint job. And it's amazing how much a new windshield changes the look of the car. 
 

I got the FMX switch mounted on the shifter, and ran the wires inside the car back to my trunk mounted solenoid near the battery.
Works great, easy install.
Thanks for all the help.
Vic

I dont think i have ever seen one without the clock 

Good news I found the clamp in my spare parts. 

I have never had a hood blow up ,but i always run hood pins ,my brother let a 69 hood blow clean off the car ,it went clear over the car and landed in the middle of the road ,he didnt have the hood pins on ! I have worked on many Mustangs that had the hood blow up or off and smash the front of the roof and rip out the hinge nuts taking them with the hood ,hood pins are one of the best safety features you can have! 

Worked on my door panels today, as you probably can see, I didn’t use the woodgrain inserts, I bought the composite inserts from MTF, painted them body color. I think they came out pretty cool.
 

My console is finally done and ready to install.  Took several iterations, but I think it came out good.
Modifications:
 - Turned my rear ashtray into a courtesy light.  Modified the stock ash tray housing to install a LED, then sources some clear reverse light plastic material and shaped it to match the ash tray opening.  Shot it with some VHT Tint spray to blend in with the black. 
 - Installed my New Relics power window switch in the front of the console box where the cigarette lighter used to be. Sourced some pebble grain ABS plastic, and cut it to match the outline of the console box front where the lighter was. Then cut the hole to mount the power window switches.  This took a lot of Dremel grind/cut/file do over...  Then glued the new front panel onto the console box.  Was a tight fit in the back where the power window switch wiring harness goes, but snuck it in there.
 - Added the Shelby Gauge Pod where the front ashtray goes . Installed some Autometer ghost silver face gauges with blue LEDs. They measure my oil cooler discharge temperature and my transmission pan temperature.  
 - Sourced some 19mm billet push button switches from an Australian supplier, and they laser engrave the switches.  They have blue led Halo lights around the switches.  I have 2 for my Dakota/VHX dash, one for my LED headlight halo, one for my engine fan override, one for my trans cooler fan override, and one for my interior lights.  I also have a rocker switch for my power door locks.  
- Added a stainless steel cupholder
- Finished the console box interior with subwoofer exterior fabric.
- Wiring underneath used the AAW GM style ribbon connectors, and a industrial DIN rail terminal block for the wiring interfaces.
 

I finally finished installing the dash pad.  A chore for me.  I would rather take my engine out....
But, think it looks good, especially with the color matched dash panels.
I also finished my console top plate.  I put black Di-Noc on it, and it came out pretty well.
Next mini-project is to install the rear quarter window power window actuators. That requires a little cutting. Thanks to the Forum members for helping with hints on that.
 

Many people have trouble with the ignition circuit, but if we break it down into small chunks it’s not that difficult to understand. Look at the schematic because it shows you how it works, while the wiring diagram shows you how it is wired- they are two different things.
 The RUN circuit
If we temporarily forget about the top half of the schematic (starter solenoid and starter), you can see that the part that actually runs the engine is pretty simple. Power starts on the left at the battery and goes to ignition switch terminal B. B is closed to C in “start or run” but right now we are only interested in “run”. From terminal C the power goes through the tach (if your car is so equipped). If you don’t have a tach the wires are just connected together. Then the power goes through the resistor wire. This is to knock the voltage down from 12v to around 5.7v. This lowers the power through the coil and makes the points last longer. Next it connects to the coil Bat terminal, flows through the coil’s primary winding and out the Dist. terminal. Power flows from the coil’s Dist terminal to the distributor. There it connects to the points. For a transformer (the coil) to operate it must have a fluctuating magnetic field. The points opening and closing provide that by turning it on and off over and over again. The points must be gapped properly and be in good condition to allow power to flow through them. The points are attached to the breaker plate, and it has a ground wire that attaches to the body of the distributor. The distributor is bolted down to the block, and the block must have ground straps going to the chassis. That completes the circuit, and All of these wires must be connected securely. The condenser is an old fashioned term for a capacitor. Its only job is to quench the arc across the points so the points last longer. The high voltage circuit begins with the secondary of the coil, then the coil wire that runs from the coil to the distributor cap. The cap must be in good condition with no high voltage arc paths to ground. Likewise with the rotor, and plug wires. The plugs must be gapped properly. That is everything to make the engine run… as long as the timing is set to allow the rotor to swing by the plug wires at the proper instant. The dashed line with arrows shows the hi-voltage path from the secondary coil through the rotor to the plugs, to chassis then back through the chassis to the points and returning to the secondary coil.  The Start circuit
Now let’s get the engine started. As we said earlier, power goes from the battery to ignition switch terminal B. When the key is in the “start” position it will go through to terminal S. If you have an automatic transmission it will go through the neutral safety switch. With a manual transmission these wires are just connected together. Then it goes to starter solenoid terminal S and from there through the solenoid coil to ground (chassis). The starter solenoid is just a big relay. The solenoid coil pulls in a set of contacts and closes them. One runs the starter motor and the other goes to terminal I. The wire from terminal I to the coil Bat terminal applies power directly from the battery to the coil. This “shorts out” the circuit we discussed in  1-4 above and instead of 5.7 volts at the coil, now it is a full 12 volts. This gives the coil more power and makes the engine easier to start.

Animal House is one of absolute favorite movies! 
As much as I like VMF, 69stang is my true home. 

Thanks to all who got the site up and running again.  This is a great group and we need to find a way to keep it going.
Every time the site goes out, I feel like we just got kicked out of the Fraternity house and have no where else to go....
I hate being on Double Secret Probation...
https://youtu.be/1tfK_3XK4CI?si=mbh_qhTDTzUe1CUa
 
 

I found both front inner fender aprons ,they need a couple of cracks fixed and someone drilled a few holes in one that will need plugged . Found a good set of headlights and stands . I got the front part of the frame rails boxed so soon as it stops raining here i will blast it and get it in epoxy .

Glad I'm not on Eastern time and up before Phil gets to work.  :)

Just a guess but I’m thinking that the car seller is behind on payments and that the car will “disappear “ or get recovered in its incomplete state

Eventhough February is already short; with this many spam posts, looks like it is going to be a real short month this time.

Just wanted to confirm the caliper is on the right side. This was according to the part number. Thanks 

I've got 275's in the rear of mine.  No rolling required, no rubbing. Still need to lower the front-end a bit, but lots of room.
front: 17 x 8 with  4.75 bs
back: 17 x 9.5 with 5.7 bs              
front: 245/45/17
back: 275/40/17