RPM

Saw this in Bakersfield Craigslist and thought I remembered someone was looking for one.
 
Underdrive overdrive gearvender mounted on a Ford C4 automatic, less than 10,000 miles, was in a 1928 model A the owner bought it in Colorado brought it here and put a lighter powertrane in it $2500 obo text six six one 667-7889
 
 
https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/pts/5925456591.html

Saw this in Bakersfield Craigslist and thought I remembered someone was looking for one.
 
Underdrive overdrive gearvender mounted on a Ford C4 automatic, less than 10,000 miles, was in a 1928 model A the owner bought it in Colorado brought it here and put a lighter powertrane in it $2500 obo text six six one 667-7889
 
 
https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/pts/5925456591.html

Before you proceed you should view this You Tube video by West Coast Classic Cougar about doors. Very informative.

https://youtu.be/xoTKxAwmnCc

Saw this in Bakersfield Craigslist and thought I remembered someone was looking for one.
 
Underdrive overdrive gearvender mounted on a Ford C4 automatic, less than 10,000 miles, was in a 1928 model A the owner bought it in Colorado brought it here and put a lighter powertrane in it $2500 obo text six six one 667-7889
 
 
https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/pts/5925456591.html

Saw this in Bakersfield Craigslist and thought I remembered someone was looking for one.
 
Underdrive overdrive gearvender mounted on a Ford C4 automatic, less than 10,000 miles, was in a 1928 model A the owner bought it in Colorado brought it here and put a lighter powertrane in it $2500 obo text six six one 667-7889
 
 
https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/pts/5925456591.html

Saw this in Bakersfield Craigslist and thought I remembered someone was looking for one.
 
Underdrive overdrive gearvender mounted on a Ford C4 automatic, less than 10,000 miles, was in a 1928 model A the owner bought it in Colorado brought it here and put a lighter powertrane in it $2500 obo text six six one 667-7889
 
 
https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/pts/5925456591.html

Saw this in Bakersfield Craigslist and thought I remembered someone was looking for one.
 
Underdrive overdrive gearvender mounted on a Ford C4 automatic, less than 10,000 miles, was in a 1928 model A the owner bought it in Colorado brought it here and put a lighter powertrane in it $2500 obo text six six one 667-7889
 
 
https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/pts/5925456591.html

That video by west coast cougars is so good.
I spoke to the guy and he is sending all the parts i need  to refurb both doors..

I have a couple of the Harbor Freight 3 ton for jacks. I like the low profile unit better because it gets into tighter spaces easier. I believe it lifts to twenty inches. I didn't see the part number on it, but it sells for about $90 on their regular sales days. The handle can be removed from the body rather quickly, like most for jacks.
 
On the front end up lift from the torque boxes, the engine cross member, and sometimes from the front crossmember below the radiator support. Sometime I'll put from the LCA, but it's a tight fit. From the side I can lift both wheels from a point where the subframe connector meets the frame rail. For lifting the rear I use the rear torque box, or the rear axle.
 

 

Well, after years of contemplating tig welding a crack in an extra headlight bucket I have, I went ahead and done did it. I apologise that I only took after pics. I do know that the cleaner the metal the better the conditions for a nice weld. I did use acetone and gave it my best college try. There must be a lot of crap in pot metal because it sure welded like dirty oily aluminum.
 
I marked one pic with a sharpie where the original crack was on the top. Years ago I drilled the end of the crack top side, but the angle of the drill bit didn't follow the crack edge as shown from the back side pic. That pic shows the crack extends past the drill hole, which popped when welding causing a larger hole. I also ground a V in the top side of the crack before welding it. I was a bit leery of applying too much heat and causing a fallout of the base metal. The filler rod and be metal's melting point were different which made for an even more difficult weld.
 
I believe I'll run a filler less bead on the back side to finish the repair. All in all it wasn't too difficult, just more irritating than difficult. I certainly won't hesitate to do more welding on pot metal when needed.
 

 

 

 

And it's Holmes in the lead! I've always thought that the M1 Garand was a really cool rifle.

Well, after years of contemplating tig welding a crack in an extra headlight bucket I have, I went ahead and done did it. I apologise that I only took after pics. I do know that the cleaner the metal the better the conditions for a nice weld. I did use acetone and gave it my best college try. There must be a lot of crap in pot metal because it sure welded like dirty oily aluminum.
 
I marked one pic with a sharpie where the original crack was on the top. Years ago I drilled the end of the crack top side, but the angle of the drill bit didn't follow the crack edge as shown from the back side pic. That pic shows the crack extends past the drill hole, which popped when welding causing a larger hole. I also ground a V in the top side of the crack before welding it. I was a bit leery of applying too much heat and causing a fallout of the base metal. The filler rod and be metal's melting point were different which made for an even more difficult weld.
 
I believe I'll run a filler less bead on the back side to finish the repair. All in all it wasn't too difficult, just more irritating than difficult. I certainly won't hesitate to do more welding on pot metal when needed.
 

 

 

 

Well, after years of contemplating tig welding a crack in an extra headlight bucket I have, I went ahead and done did it. I apologise that I only took after pics. I do know that the cleaner the metal the better the conditions for a nice weld. I did use acetone and gave it my best college try. There must be a lot of crap in pot metal because it sure welded like dirty oily aluminum.
 
I marked one pic with a sharpie where the original crack was on the top. Years ago I drilled the end of the crack top side, but the angle of the drill bit didn't follow the crack edge as shown from the back side pic. That pic shows the crack extends past the drill hole, which popped when welding causing a larger hole. I also ground a V in the top side of the crack before welding it. I was a bit leery of applying too much heat and causing a fallout of the base metal. The filler rod and be metal's melting point were different which made for an even more difficult weld.
 
I believe I'll run a filler less bead on the back side to finish the repair. All in all it wasn't too difficult, just more irritating than difficult. I certainly won't hesitate to do more welding on pot metal when needed.
 

 

 

 

Well, after years of contemplating tig welding a crack in an extra headlight bucket I have, I went ahead and done did it. I apologise that I only took after pics. I do know that the cleaner the metal the better the conditions for a nice weld. I did use acetone and gave it my best college try. There must be a lot of crap in pot metal because it sure welded like dirty oily aluminum.
 
I marked one pic with a sharpie where the original crack was on the top. Years ago I drilled the end of the crack top side, but the angle of the drill bit didn't follow the crack edge as shown from the back side pic. That pic shows the crack extends past the drill hole, which popped when welding causing a larger hole. I also ground a V in the top side of the crack before welding it. I was a bit leery of applying too much heat and causing a fallout of the base metal. The filler rod and be metal's melting point were different which made for an even more difficult weld.
 
I believe I'll run a filler less bead on the back side to finish the repair. All in all it wasn't too difficult, just more irritating than difficult. I certainly won't hesitate to do more welding on pot metal when needed.
 

 

 

 

An option would be to use the supplied piece, but use the solid side for the holes in the lip. Then mark and drill for correct location and weld the side with holes to the cowl/firewall. You can plug weld the holes if desired.

Flue is almost gone ,just the cough left .Money is still here ...but not for long !!

There, I fixed it for you.
 
Looking mighty sexy!

What did I get for Christmas?
Fat. I got fat.

The reinforcement plate goes on the underside of the pinch weld ( the nut side).

What did I get for Christmas?
Fat. I got fat.

Arggg, that is painful to see, but looks great now. Welcome; this forum has guys that actually know what they're talking about- present company excepted of course.

Fixed it for you!
 
I got the usual assortment of clothing and things to eat to make me even fatter.  Oink!

Well, been a while since the last update. Been working on a bunch of small projects that when completed allowed me to fire up the motor in the car for the first time. I bought an exhaust kit thru Summit of 2-1/2" mid steel Thrush turbo mufflers. I temporarily dumped them at the rear axle as taking them out the back or dumping them in front of the rear tires will take more time now than I want to spend. The mufflers look off in the pic, but they're dead nuts on height wise.
 
 
 
The dash cover is ready to drop in. I waited till I had all the electrical and heater vents installed and checked. The stereo deck is wired and bolted in ready to blast. Surprisingly the tranny shifts thru all the gears. Could not find type F atf anywhere in town and ordered it online.
 
 
 
I was concerned with a few items up front. After I bought the Speed Demon 750 around 10-15 years ago I read many online posts about not being able to tune it and keep an engine running. Turned out crap was left in the carbs at the factory. I cleaned out and rebuilt it. It starts right up and runs aok. The electric fans from MikeStang function great with the Spal relays. It hasn't gone over 195* idling or revving.
 
 
 
I'm pretty happy with how things have gone. Time to bolt on some sheet metal, have the front and rear glass installed and bolt a seat in.

Could also be a loose vacuum canister.

Very nice Jay! Kudos. Why is that thing parked? Get out and drive her!