RPM

I'd pass on, maybe in a politically correct way, show and tell the owner what all needs to be done/replaced and how much it would cost...see where it goes from there. Also leave your contact info so when he can't sell it, he might call you asking ," what will you give for it" re-evaluate it based on parting it out

That's a felony where I'm from. Car cover? Portable cover? I'd park mine in my living room before leaving it outside in the snow. But that's me. And could be why I'm 0-2 with wives :)
Nice looking place ya got there Ray.

Snow isn't that bad for a car, probably not any worse than half the covers out there.....

I've never assembled an FE before however... I don't think I'd assemble any motor in a garage where there is body work going on... too much dust.
 
david

No no, my mistake. So how did you get the wire thru the grommet? I used a 1/16" welding rod as a fish and pushed it thru the grommet, attached the electrical wire to the rod similar to home electrical, but couldn't keep the wire attached as it passed back thru the 48 year old, harder than Chinese arithmetic rubber.

I'd like a little direction, advice and how and where you guys ran additional wires thru the firewall. I've got two gauges (electrical) and two idiot lights (and one idiot electrician) installed in the center console gauge pod. I'd like to run three or four wires for 1) oil temp, 2) oil pressure idiot light, 3) water temp idiot light, 4) and maybe the transmission fluid temp. I may run the trans temp wire up thru the tranny shifter area if the sensor is installed in the pan.

I think Randy at Midlife ran the new tachometer signal wire thru the stock wire harness grommet on the firewall. Edit: Not the plug connection at the fuse box, but further towards the center in front of the driver. Can additional wires be run thru the stock grommet? And if so, how? I know I can always install a new grommet, but the stock main wire harness grommet is in the ideal location for me.

Thanks guys.

When bored at work (which rarely happens), I look at eBay to see what's out there.  Today, I searched Mustang underdash harnesses, which usually has way overpriced used stuff where folks claim it was refurbished.  Looking closely at the pictures, it usually indicates broken wires and such, all for $600+.  Outrageous!
 
Today, a 69 with AC with listed for $49.99, BIN.  The pictures showed it was easily refurbishable with minor damage, well within my desires for really good cores.  Two people were watching this listing.  Screw them: I snapped it up as my standard core charge is $50. 
 
As you know, the 69 and 70's are my biggest sellers (see http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php/topic/55726-reaching-a-milestone/
and I'm always short of good cores.  Finding something on eBay listed at normal core charges and a good $250 less than anything else was a surprise.
 
He browses, he clicks, he scores!!!!

I vote for the 8.8" if you want the best bang for the buck. You will spend a wad of money taking your 8" rear apart, replacing bearings and axle seals (should do this while its apart), then dropping $800 on a 8" posi center section. Plus you still have original 28 spline axles.
 
I have a 8.8 in my '68, and have about $700 total invested and it has a 3.73 traction lock with disc brakes...
 
With a stock C4 I would use a 3:25 or 3:50 gear set.
 
Keep us posted on what you do. Good luck!

Dude, you will have to check out the Icelandic Mustang Club...
 
http://mustangis.com/index.php?lang=en
 
 
 

The ad does say $1 ,that is probably about what they are worth .

the insert, the box that collect all the extra screws, lol

Those are quite rough.

You need to run enough amps to get good penetration for sticking the metal together and not getting too tall of a weld. You also need to have it adjusted low enough that you are not applying excess heat.
To help prevent blow through you can use a copper backing at the weld seam. The copper will resist the weld, will draw some of the heat out of the weld and provide a backing to prevent blow through.
You need to make a series of short welds of no more than an inch, skip a couple inches and then go again. Then cycle back and stitch in the areas between the welds giving cooling time between.
Welding is about practice, practice, practice.
Get some old bent fenders or hoods to practice on, you need to do some learning and get a feel for how the metal reacts to what you are doing.
 
Bob

HAHA, i better up my price then ....just kidding 

I always put a twist in my cables when i latch them down ,it keeps them from flopping around in the wind and they never leave a mark .

Yes ,they have a hood latch ,but the 69 -70 doesn't always stay latched .i have seen very few 69s that the hood has not come up at one time or another .You can usually tell by the big dent in the front of the roof where the hood slapped it when it blew up ,or by the missing hood hinge nuts in the fender aprons where they were ripped out when the hood blew open and tore the hinges off .

I have tried every type of spot weld cutter I have seen or heard of.
 
If you are removing a spot weld in a panel you will not be reusing, I use a 3/8 carbide ball on a die grinder.
I eat away the top of the spot weld till I see a blue ring begin to appear around the weld. This tellls me that the metal is thin enough to rip off my hand.
Once the metal is ripped off it leave a little but if a nub from the remainder of the spot weld which I knock down with a sanding disc on a grinder.
 
Advantage.....you are never off center, the drill will not slip or walk, you don't have to center punch, and you never damage the base material you are going to reuse
 
Bob

Ideally you would run through the range of motion with no spring. This will make sure that there is no bind or limit reached on the ball joints when the upper arm reaches the limit bumper. You can rerun the test with the shock in place and see if you are bottoming or close to bottoming the shock at travel limit.
If you are bottom the shock, buy how much?
You can install a washer under the shock tower/cap and you can install a few washers under the top of the shock to the shock tower cap. You may need slightly longer bolts.
R-model shelbys used a short piece or pipe cut to be a spacer to correct the issue.
 
Bob

I think wires got crossed here as RPM was asking for the link to the guy who sells just gears, not the built 3rd member. Either way, yes have been happy with mine. Shipped in a milk crate with the posi fluid and was returned with my old 3rd member for a core refund. Answered the phone when I called and spent the time with me to figure exactly what I needed.

I went the easy route and removed the back seats. Ha! Sorry, but I can't help you any.
 
Hey bigmal, welcome to the forum. I do believe you'll enjoy your time here. I've lost count, but I'm thinking you Aussies have taken the lead in pure numbers on the forum :) How about a little intro info on you and your Mustang? And pictures, we like pictures.

I went the easy route and removed the back seats. Ha! Sorry, but I can't help you any.
 
Hey bigmal, welcome to the forum. I do believe you'll enjoy your time here. I've lost count, but I'm thinking you Aussies have taken the lead in pure numbers on the forum :) How about a little intro info on you and your Mustang? And pictures, we like pictures.

Where do you plan on putting the new cooler? Couldn't you use the existing cooler lines to the new cooler? Shorten or lengthen them to the new location?

Those dimensions may be out there, but I've never come across them. For reference, my car hasn't had front end damage and these are my measurements.

From the inside/rear edge of the lower radiator support to the rear center of the lower edge of the strut rod mounting plate hole is 8" both sides, and 90° out to the outer frame rail lip is 7-1/2" both sides.

These cars are famous for not being symmetrical side to side, or with other cars.

I'd put that on my fireplace mantle :) 

What, they couldn't fit enough rubber without those hideous flares? Other than that it's cool.