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Everything posted by RPM

  1. Welcome to the best looking car ever club. Looks to be a nice start. My daughter and fam lived in Vernal from 2015-16, I thought it was a cool town.
  2. RPM


    Wow. Bad concrete work is heartbreaking. I feel for ya brother. When I saw the pour pics inside a building, with cold temps, I wondered how long they'd have to wait to finish it. I'm guessing they put too much calcium chloride in it.
  3. That is really good info Casey. Thanks bro.
  4. Without removing the rivets? Did you pull them out the front of back?
  5. The Babylon Bee is satirical.
  6. Am I the only one who's aware of the state law that requires a 390fe be used for power in a 68 fastback in Highland green?
  7. We can always build you a set Eddie. I might even have a set available with a half inch rear bj offset for the upper and the lower for more caster. I went to one inch offsets for ~8° caster.
  8. Thanks guys. I try to now think first and screw it up later :)
  9. That's good to know. In my situation I pieced the swap parts together and had trouble locating a proper fitting stick. So I cut and spliced a couple of sticks to get the proper offset and centered in the tunnel hole.
  10. Dang, forgot about your R Code Mattias. She's coming along nicely.
  11. Any quality ball joint will work. Get or do your own alignment to Daze's specs, no clearance issues. Daze says; These specifications are in order of importance. NO more than . 25 degrees difference between driver's side and passenger's side. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster. -. 5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. ... 1/16" to 1/8” toe in.
  12. I know a couple of y'all have rebuilt the ball felt with velcro. My question is did you have to remove the ball from the socket? If so, how'd you do it and reinstall it? Did you drill out the small rivet looking thingies?
  13. I'm doing the same swap, mine sure looks like it'll fit.
  14. The above method only works if the steering arms are the same length, or if the centerlink is not connected to the pitman arm. If I were you Flanders, I'd measure the length of each steering arm then lengthen the shorter one an equal amount you shorten the longer one. Maybe do one turn at a time. Once they're equal do the above method to find center. When the box is centered the pitman arm and idler arm connections to the center link will be equal distance to the inner edge of the frame rail.
  15. Pretty sure the nut is 1/2" nc, as mine takes a 3/4" wrench. That would make the pin 1/2" as well. But measuring your existing pin is the obvious way to go.
  16. What seats are those Eddie? They look period correct. Here's a set if you want to float thre big bucks :)
  17. It's buyer beware on those things. Couple of years ago I bought one for around 50 bucks. No sim card to be found. Countless emails requesting one had them repeatedly reply "make sure the sim card is installed". Oh well.
  18. RPM

    MTF News

    Congrats and God speed.
  19. I've got a Chocko rebuilt manual box and love it. You can save a few bucks and make your own.
  20. Don't know your budget, but pretty sure SoT requires his upper and lower control arms as part of the kit which I think is around $3k. I've also spoken with Shaun who will give you info without any pressure to buy. He won't sell individual parts or tell you which brand parts he uses other than Bilstein. I met John and Sherry from Opentracker, wonderful people. He also has quality products which will give a smoother front suspension.
  21. I've got a buddy who installed Viking coil overs in his 65 this year and likes them very much. They're the style that mount in the original location, and were in the $700 price range.
  22. Hopefully it means nobody is having Mustang problems.
  23. If you're going to do some cutting and splicing, I'd wager it'd be easier to splice the center hump from the one piece to your lower profile original seat risers. That's what I did anyway.
  24. Atta boy! Just be aware that convertible seat riser will raise your seats one inch.
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