RPM

In need of the dash frame.

Since we on this side of the pond make our U turns to the left, I'd have to say no.

The frame under the dash pad which bolts in.

Hope this isn't a repost. How does the dolly connect to the body of the car? Thanks. Wish it was mine!

Ditto to 69gmachine. Only thing I would add is to make sure the steering box is centered also. If the center link is not centered when the center link is, the arm on the steering box needs to be indexed so both the box and center link are centered at the same time. Then do the tie rods, then do the steering wheel if it's off centered from the box.

I've only used the style of the first pic, and it worked very well.

only difference is number of nuts, bolts and holes.

instead of a grinder, try using a spot weld remover bit on a drill motor. much less chance for more damage.

I have found if you buy the arms complete you get 3 bolt joints. If you order just the joints you can get either.

n/m. sorry, misread ad.

sheck it out. let me know.

it's in pretty good shape. no cracks or damage. the lighter and bezel are kind of crappy, bumps may be rust of corrosion. the center wood grain needs replaced. have no idea what they go for. will snap some pics in a bit and post. got a chuckle looking at it for the first time in years. how many center consoles today have 2 ashtrays and 1 lighter in them?

I've got a black one. Let me drag it down and check the condition.

How about a complete console?

Demon, thanks for the shaker paint notes. At some point I'll need to do mine. I thought you guys were talking about the upper control arm roller bearing conversion. One post mentioned not being able to powder coat the control arm because the bearing can't be removed. I was just wondering why the kits and arms they sell didn't have the ability to remove the bearings so the arms could be powder coated. Again, very nice car.

Ya may want to price check on the items you're missing before building it original. Even the small pieces are way outta line. R code part prices are nuts.

Demon, good job on the stang. how did you prep, and what did you paint the shaker with? don't know why you'd make roller bearing control arms w/o a way to replace the bearings.

Thanks. Baking soda. Down side was having to blow out all the nooks and crannies, then wipe down the bare metal with a solution to remove all the soda residue. Seems to have worked well, as the paint has been on for years without issue.

Yes you can use aftermarket rotors on them. They are the same size rotors, just made by other people. MustangSteve kit requires the use of 67/68 drum spindles to mount the caliper bracket. The 67/68 drum spindles have the mounting bracket on the same plane. 69 disc spindles have the caliper mount bolts 90* to each other. I too think bigger spindles would be in order, but MS hasn't seen any problems with his. Don't know what the oem cobra spindles look like. The 67/68 spindles are lighter (less material) than the 69. Me thinks the 13" cobra rotor is plenty big. oem on left, 13" cobra on right.

Yes, I'm staying with the Indian red. too much orange for some folks, but I like it. My brothers father in law is a retired dean at fresno state and started the wine program there. I'm sure your brother knows of him, Harry Karle. My brother lives in fresno, but I located him a 69 down here in Bakersfield. turned out to be a complete R code with drag pak. guy was asking $12k, but when he washed it for inspection raised the price to $14k. still a steal.

I was born and raised in Fredno. Did you move to Minnesota from Fredno? few pics of suspension, engine, shop I added on, rolled fender lip.

Bought this M code 351W, 4bbl, FMX, San Jose built Mach I daily driver in 1989 for $2,500. It had rust thru on both lower rear quarters. Put in 2 lower 1/4 panels and did a $2,000 paint job. Drove it little over the next few years till it jumped into reverse one day while warming it up without the parking brake on. Ran over a concrete mixer, and stopped at an 8"x 8" gate post. Gate post won. Did the rear panel repair, farmed out the 1/4 repair and paint. Drove it little after that mainly because of a leaky and slipping FMX. In 1996 I stripped the car down to a shell, had it soda blasted, and took it to the body shop for body work and Porshe Indian red paint. Bored the block .030 over and stroked it with a Scat 3.85 stroke crank. AFR 185 heads, and a Stealth intake up top. Located a C5 trans to swap for the lite weight FMX. A 9 inch with 3.50 gears and traction lok bring up the rear. 13" 02 Cobra disc up front, and 84 El Dorado 10" disc in rear. Making tube front and rear control arms for coil overs. Built a 900 sq ft shop/pool room addition for the stang. Met a gal in 02, got married, did nothing on the car, just got divorced. Bout ready to get going on it again. Got the bug.

Get the title in your name for the R code car if you can. Put the R code door with data plate on the R code car. Call the DMV and ask their process for a car with 2 vins like yours before you take it down there. Since the R code is on the fender apron, I'd try to get an matching R code vin plate for the dash.

Tirerack.com among others has a spec chart which shows wheel width and recommended tire sizes.

Thought I read 150-180# on the rear. Heidts should know a ball park figue.