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Posts posted by RPM
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I'm a Damn Yankee.LOLOhhhh... any culture shock?
Bob
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Buening, with your skills I'd have thunk you'd fab some adjustable control arms. Since your lca is maxed out at -.5*, and that is the lower end of Opentracker's specs, if I you, I'd run it and see how she handles. If you end up needing more camber for front end grip, then maybe look into adjustable upper or both arms. The guys who have them, love em.
Bob
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SyracuseIsn't that a felony in Alabama? Kinda like putting a chebby engine in a Ford.
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Holy crap! Top shelf stuff. I love the color contrasts. Ditto on is the build documented somewhere. And welcome to the site.
Bob
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so is the guy flying the bird in the right of your picture flying it at you or everyone that looks at the pic??? Hmmmm... Oh and I just love the oval turn signals instead of the originals.Ha! Good eye, I never noticed those two items.
Bob
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ohhhh I didnt made my self clear, I was asking if it can be used as a Strut Rod end, but a guy from moog told me that it can be dangerous because its not made for tensile forcesWell, I only play an engineer at home, but because it's a steering arm it has to be subject to quite a bit of tensile forces. Now how much its engineered for, who knows. But it might be out there somewhere.
Bob
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Those look identical to BMW r&p tie rods.How would you attach them to stock Mustang steering?
Bob
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Welcome Clark. Since the shock towers are multiple layers, sometimes welding repairs can be difficult. Repair vs. replace depends on the extent of the damage. The damage and bad repairs on my brothers 65 was so bad, I luckily found some pristine towers which he cleaned up for replacement. Drilling the spot welds is not a fun day. Do you have decent pics of your damage?
Bob
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Welcome! Is yours an M code (4v) or an H code, 2 v?
Bob
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Well, I certainly don't want not to hijack this thread but sometimes good info can come from digressions. I absolutely hope the owner of the damaged Mustang is fully compensated for his loss. During the three decades I worked as an insurance adjuster, many claims were not paid due to policy language and state law. One example is when an insured has a heart attack and crashes into another's property. The person who had the heart attack is not liable for damages he caused. The same applies to intentional acts. Claims are paid when there is no liability, they are under paid, and over paid. Your experience will vary. I only worked in California, the present case seems to be in Michigan, but laws and insurance regulations vary by state.
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Since when? If your car is stolen, insurance will cover it when you have theft coverage. Last I checked, that's a criminal actTotally different scenarios. If your car is stolen, usually it's by another person, and yes it's covered under your comprehensive coverage. In most states, if the insured intentionally uses his vehicle to assault someone or cause damage, then the intentional acts are excluded. Intentional acts exclude the insured's, not the thief's intention. From what I read, the owner of the F-100 intentionally drove his own vehicle into the Mustang. Hopefully the Mustang owner won't have to deal with the idiot's insurance company.
Bob
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Couple off things come to my mind;
Why is he pissed at the new boyfriend and not his ex, or himself.
If the Mustang owner doesn't have adequate insurance, good luck getting anything from the criminal because car insurance doesn't cover intentional acts. If that happened to my car, the idiot would pay dearly without a clue of when or where.
Sad deal.
Bob
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DMV procedures are a state by state deal. It would be nice to know your location. I'm in California and if I had your issue with the title, and I had the sellers signature, I would place the original dmv form with his signature against a window and put the form that needs his signature on top. You'll be able to see his signature, the rest is easy. It may take a few tries to get it down. I've never failed to " locate" a proper signature. If the purchase of the car was legal, and the only issue is a signature misplaced or missing, I'm gonna make sure I don't get sent on a wild goose chase.
Bob
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With the trans tunnel being double wall when using the conv riser hump, adding the parking brake there should be quite the project. Do you have any preliminary plans or ideas?
Fyi, the only differences in all of the one piece seat risers that I could see and measure, was width. The coupe and fb versions are wider because they don't have the inner rockers.
Bob
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Nice work, as always! I grafted the hump piece also from a one piece conv riser. Since ALL of the one piece risers are 1" higher ( at least all those that NPD sells, I went into their Ventura, Ca store and checked them) I had to cut reliefs at the outer edges of the trimmed hump in order to bend them down and weld to the stock seat risers. I cut the conv seat riser just inside the inner seat bolt holes. If I could download pics I would.
Bob
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You are a good man 69g, I'll be awaiting the listing of the parts.
Bob
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Hmm... I've never seen that part on any Mustang I've owned or worked on. The part looks to be in good shape, why not just clean it up with a wire wheel and paint it?
Bob
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Not saying that this is the right way but it works well for me. I almost always start by hammer/dolly weld to stretch the metal back to original as welding typically shrinks it. It also serves to bring the weld bead proud of sheet metal. I then use a cut off wheel with greater than 1/8" thickness to grind the weld down *close to* panel. The wheel is kept perpendicular to weld at all times and dragged down the length of the weld.When the weld is close I switch over to a 36 grit disc on right angle grinder and finally move to a coarse roloc. I always try to use the most aggressive material as it requires least pressure, generates less heat and therefore creates the least panel distortion.
Good luck!!
I too have used this technique, with good results on keeping the heat way low. I use this always on tack wells before final bead. I'm guessing old age kept me from recalling it.
Bob
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I'd use a 4" flapper weld and apply a wet rag after a short grind, or use a 2" sanding disc on an angle die grinder. Grinding welds if done wrong can warp the metal as bad as a bad weld.
Bob
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Welcome to the site, and congrats on your 69 purchase. If I were you, I'd check the rear end to see if the original 6 cyl axle its in there. An 8 or 9" has access from the front, the 6 cyl rear has rear access. You need an 8 or 9" with a V8. Good luck.
Bob
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I don't usually open a non descriptive thread. The only reason I viewed this "need help" thread is because it went to two pages, and I thought it might be really good. Not too many folks post in the Technical Forum who don't need help. The tip to the op that a description of the help needed was not rude, and might be helpful to others. However, the op's response to the tip was unwarranted. I've never had the balls after just joining a car site to start name calling. That's just my view, yours may vary.
Bob
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I truly believe the factory installed them in a general location. My left and right locations are not symmetrical. I could have eye balled them and gotten them closer.
Bob
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I've got a plastic right angled piece which bolts to the 45 degree area of the floor board. Since I disassembled the car back in 1999, I believed this is where the dimmer switch mounts. If I was able to post a pic here I would. If you email me at
I'll send you pics.
Bob
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A nice reference book to get is "1969 Mustang Chassis Assembly Manuel" by Jim Osborn. Many of the pages are hard enough to read, that a copy or picture would really be a task. I picked mine up at NPD. They also have them available for the body, electrical and maybe more.
Bob
1970 Grabber Green Project
in Project Progress Forum
Posted · Report reply
Hot damn! Them wheels are purdy.
Bob