RPM

I thought I already replied to this. This is what I was able to locate tonight.

Hey Ed, my lower mounting screw is right at the bottom edge of area that your door trim panel is located. No reason it couldn't be mounted a quarter inch higher and be behind the trim panel.

Will do. Probably won't be until Monday before I can get to the UPS store.

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Corresponding connections on my solenoid and starter.

Dan (NOS681) is correct on my wiring. Thanks for jumping in Dan.

The starter does spin the motor as it should, but I've not felt the starter to check the heat. I will though on future tests.

Judge away Terry, most of my friends do :) An example would be the #4 of my first test where before cranking the volts at the battery connection (forward big lug) on solenoid measured 12.6v and 11.1v when cranking, I came up with a 1.5v drop, instead of giving an 11.1 value. The cable from the + battery post in the trunk to the solenoid is pretty close to 15 feet. In your Word post questions, to which starter terminals is #3 measuring, B to C? And which terminals is #4 referring to?

Okay, some new numbers. I'm pretty sure I said I'm not an electrician. Tonight I was on the phone with a fellow Mustanger buddy when I was starting the test. When I questioned him about the voltage drop on the #1 procedure on Woodchuck's chart, he told me the number I was looking for was the cranking volts, not the drop difference from before cranking and while cranking which is what I had been listing as the value. I used a new digital volt meter for the latest test. 1- .95 2- .00 3- .19 4- 11.80 5- .23 6- .20 Terry, I was told that Woodchuck's chart is for a chivy with one solenoid. What measured values do you think should be expected with my stock fender mounted solenoid and a solenoid on the starter?

Terry, the best I've got for analog testing is an AWS SPR-300 plus, and an old Sears Penske automotive analyzer model #161.21042. Back ten years ago when building the 69 I just bought the trunk battery cable kit online which was sold for this purpose. I figured it was up to the chore.

Just for clarity, in addition to that ground wire at the transmission tail housing which connects to a lug next to the battery in the trunk, the battery connects to the chassis at that lug in the trunk. I also have three engine block grounds to the chassis in the engine bay.

Other than the find craftsmanship on the scoop, she's looking real nice.

I rechecked them all and not much changed. I do have a #2 copper ground from the trunk battery ground stud to the tranny tail housing. Even though I ain't much of an electric guy, one trick I was taught and use regularly is the ohm check. Both leads are inserted fully. I ran a jumper cable from the battery to the front where I used the voltage meter. And turned the motor over while checking the voltage drop. Here are the numbers from the second test. 1- 2.0v drop 2- 12.1v drop 3- 12.6v drop 4- 1.3v drop 5- .22v drop 6- .16v drop Think I'll check all terminals and connections, and make new wires from the solenoid to the battery.

Welp Terry, be careful what you wish for. I hope I don't fry your brain with my voltage drop numbers. 1- 2.3v drop 2- went from 12.6 to zero 3- 12v drop 4- 1.5 drop 5- .25 drop 6- .25 drop Before doing the test I checked the battery voltage. While looked at the digital gauge, the hundredths number was dropping by a hundredth each second. And cuz I'm not an erectrician, I don't know if this is normal. Bob

No. I also had starter issues with the FMX and flexplate before I put in the toploader. And I like the way you think.

I have a 1986 E6ZR-AA 157 tooth 50 oz flywheel, that was balanced to my 28 oz flexplate weight because the first machine shop added weight to my flexplate when he balanced the motor.

My ignition is all Henry Ford circa 1969. Points, condenser, Motorcraft distributor, timing set at 18°, no vacuum advance. Motor is a 393W with a 3.85" stroke, AFR heads, with 10.2cr. A couple of guys have mentioned that the stroke and compression ratio might be a stain on the starting system. But the M code 351w came with 10.7cr. I've got an issue with my motor where it fouls two to four plugs during city driving, but not on long trips. As the plugs start to foul it takes longer crank before it starts. The starter failures seem to occur during these longer cranking times. With fresh plugs it starts up right away first moment I turn the key. I've had the intake manifold off three times for various reasons and the gaskets have not shown signs of leaks. The valves have been lapped, and Viton seals installed. The stock AFR valve guides felt good when checked. I have a coil cut off switch, and have on occasion not turned it on until it cranked for a second or two. It seems to start easier this way. I've got a freshly rebuilt 5.0 roller motor in my 56 F100 that just might get yanked out and put in the 69 :) They said build a Mustang, it'll be fun! Oy...

Cool, thanks guys. I'll see if I can get to that this week.

Ya, at least ten starters, probably more. Driving me nuts? No, it's a short putt. I've come to expect it, and named my 69 Rosanne. As in Rosanne Roseannadanna, it's always something. I am getting mighty tired of working on the same problems. At some recent point I've begun to believe it's something other than the starter. My first couple of starters were Ford. But somehow got hooked into the lifetime warranty crap at O'Reilly's. I think I got sucked into them when I bought one while on a road trip. The battery in the trunk has also crossed my small mind. The voltage on the battery post and and the solenoid are always the same when checked. The red wire is #2 USA made copper. I do have a #2 ground copper wire mounted at the chassis ground next to the battery that travels under the car and mounts to the transmission. And three other engine to chassis grounds. I will absolutely accept your help and will do, or attempt a voltage drop test. There are around five guys who've been in the loop of Roseanne's problems, and are flummoxed at the cause. Not that they compare at all to your knowledge. I think you should know of this electrical issue also. When I added my factory (with Sanden type compressor) AC a couple of years ago, I noticed I was only getting around 10v at the compressor. Among other things I checked the voltage drop from the battery thru the solenoid, fuse box, ignition switch and AC switch. It dropped from 13.9 at the battery to 12.25v at the fuse box, and 10.3v at the AC compressor. As small a volume of traffic this site has, we'll keep it here. The more eyes the better. Thanks brother.

Welcome to the forum. That's a bit much for my level of energy, I hope you're a young buck. Ya, I wouldn't offer the full $10k either. Are you close enough to inspect the car? Before doing anything else, I'd have the owner send a pic of the data plate on the driver door jamb. From the info on the data plate you can input the info here and find out what the car had installed at the factory. https://www.cjponyparts.com/resources/1969-mustang-vin-decoder Many Mustangs no longer have the data plate or the original door. Mach 1 has a body code of 63C. For a more complete story of that car, you can get a Marti report here: https://www.cjponyparts.com/resources/1969-mustang-vin-decoder https://www.martiauto.com/martireports.cfm

Disclaimer: I'm no auto electrician. I'd rather stack BBs than trouble shoot electrical issue on a car. Several years ago I installed a late model (80's) style PMGR starter cuz I falsely thought I had a bad starter. When the motor got up to temperature the starter would barely turn over. I fingered it was the stock rebuilt starter getting heat soaked. Turned out to be a bad pristine looking battery cable from the fender solenoid to the starter. Starter problem fixed. Or at least I thought. This image is how my PMGR starter is wired, and what @Mach1 Driver asked to show. My battery is mounted in the trunk, with the 12 inch ground cable secured to a stud I welded to the chassis. The 12v positive battery runs up the right side interior to the stock location fender mounted solenoid. I have no fuses or diodes in the battery or starter wires. I've been plagued with starter gear teeth being destroyed, and sometimes the starter mounted solenoid goes bad. One time both went bad. Just for info, another (bad idea) non-stock part I swapped is a Tuff Stuff 1 wire alternator. If this isn't enough problems to discuss, I can add some more electrical issues in having. Too much harassment on my lack of skills will result in being flagged as a spammer :) Edit: I just remembered shortly after installing my first Performance Automotive PMGR starter, the starter gear stayed engaged to the starter ring gear. It made a hell of a racket that can't be missed. PA replaced the starter, and I've not had one do it again.

You a funny guy? I betcha I've been thru at least 10 starters in that four years. True story. Link to new thread about my PMGR starter wiring:

Ha! Took me a minute. The remote is there cuz I had to use it when my neighbor took me to the store. Also in the pic is my two month old Bosch starter which broke the cast aluminum nose, and chipped a starter ring tooth in the process. Nice. You know what I'll be doing today.

More better?