RPM

If you have done the Arning-Shelby upper control arm drop, which is a requirement in my mind, you won't need a rear bar. When building mine I bought a rear bar and was planning on installing it. I then read several threads where it was said a rear bar is not needed, and if used will cause snap oversteer. So I delayed the rear bar install until my 69 was drivable, and not an I glad I did. My car with a 1⅛ front sway bar, 1" Arning drop, 7° caster, -.5° camber, 1/16" toe in, 245/45-18" front tires, and 255/45-18 rear tires handles very nuetral with no under or over steer. Your mileage may vary.

Nice progress. Good job and thinking on the seal lip install. Rebuilding auto trannies isn't too difficult, organization and cleanliness are essential. A guy once said, if someone is smart enough to design a transmission, I should be smart enough to rebuild it.

It's just a short sheet metal screw like those that secure most of the trim and dash. Half the outer part hole in one of the tabs on mine is broken, but holds it good enough. If yours is broken more than mine, maybe try some fiberglass, or some JB Weld.

Henry Ford. I've found that Ebay has the best selection, and bought a used one a few years ago.

No worries.

Hey Jim, I don't do FB Messenger. Call or text me at 661 749 3886.

Ya know, I almost called you about it Jim. Cool, it's yours.

Yep yep and yep. 1⅛" is the way to go.

A lot of people, present company included, based their less than stellar car's performance on worn out parts. Mach1 Driver is correct. With proper functioning stock components, your brakes should do a good job. Anytime you change from stock, you're opening a can of worms that will bring in a few extra parts that will need modded. A guy in the Mustang world who really knows stock brakes, and steering, is Dan @ Chockostang.com. He can be believed and trusted.

Nice. About time we had a new build on here.

Ford tooling dash from NPD. New sells for $412.33 plus tax. No damage, scratches, marks, or fading. $200 seems fair. I'm in Bakersfield, and think shipping would kill any deal. But I've not checked into it.

I can't tell from the pics which export brace you have, the good one, or the crappy one. The good one fits very well, is made from ~.120" material, and the center valley is ~.500" deep. The crappy one is none of those. Make sure you have the good export brace. I bought mine thru NPD.

Shoe fab. Too cool. I picked up two stands and several feet at an Iowa farm auction last October. Thought they could be used for some sort of metal work, but feared they also were cast. Good info there Jim, thanks.

Thanks Casey and Doug, I do appreciate your time.

As far as headlights go, simply adding a couple of relays to them will do wonders. It'll also reduce the chances of an electrical far.

Thanks Doug.

Well I certainly hope it's not your last post. What an outstanding job you do. With the different suspension, how does the Falcon ride compared to the 69 Mach 1? You live in a gorgeous part of the country. With a couple of good customers you could make some serious cash building top shelf cars. The talent here on this forum is astonishing. And by the way, you look nothing like what I imagined. I figured you were a hard ass looking special forces kind of guy. Not that what I saw was a bad thing. Kudos brother.

I'll add a third; get your harness refurbished by Randy at Midlife. Present company included, you won't find a nicer, more honest guy on the web. http://midlifeharness.com/ Phone Number: 850-624-7528

Thanks Doug for looking, and Terry for the chuckle. I'm probably over thinking it, but I seem to remember removing staples from the hard plastic tubes that secured the flex tube. Champagne problems.

Damn, missed the convertible part also.

I love it when people who axe questions online follow the advice given, and follow up the thread with a conclusion. Nice work KMD88.

No pics of where it exits the cabin and thru a tube in the torque box, but it doesn't go thru the seat support. It goes thru the toe plate of the floor, thru the torque box, thru the frame rail exiting to the center of the undercarriage. The Ford Shop Manual has some drawings of it.

A couple of questions for you know it alls. What, if anything do y'all use to secure the flex duct to the hard plastic ends. I sure don't want it coming loose one installed. Is the piece with the dip in it in the pic with the X in the proper orientation? All the pics I've seen show it with the V pointing down. But with it in that position I can't get the alignment with the elbow to its left lined up perfectly. EDIT: Is any fastener used where the elbow tube that connects to the vent and to the tube with the drop down bend in it? Thanks guys.

I'd call one of the cam companies and run it by them.