RPM

Not sure if this heps, it doesn't show the column trim. But I'm not home with my books with pitchers.

Huh, learn sumpin ever day. Too bad that wasn't already posted. :) I read that about the S clip, but didn't quite get it. Thanks.

Oy! I was totally cornfused by your first pic. I thought the first pic was taken from the seat looking at the dash, didn't realize the upper dash was out. DOH! I'd think this mounting tab would mount on top of the dash edge. Are there not holes in the upper horizontal edge of the dash with mounting holes? I know there are some for electrical wire routing. Unfortunately neither side of my ducts are using the mounting tabs, but have not come loose from the registers they mount to.

Have you tried flopping the tube end for end so the tab is on the bottom and points to the edge of the upper edge of the lower dash?

That section on my 69 didn't have a mount tab, but the far right duct had one that mounts from the bottom and towards the passenger. My tab was broken off, so... This image shows the orientation of the tab on the 69. Don't know if 69 and 70 are the same.

Moment? I'm there all the time.

Pretty sure Midlife answered it. It's the highlighted print in the original quote.

Ya I noticed that a couple of days ago. What a transformation you've accomplished on your Mustang. Looking at your first pics of the car I couldn't believe you were gonna tackle that job. But with Mike at wheel the chassis turned out fantastic. Glad you joined us Vic.

The simplist and without mods would be that C4, if he rebuilt it correctly. While it may not be the optimal transmission, I'll all for getting these Mustangs on the road without necessarily building the perfect car.

I drive my 69 daily and would recommend stock factory parts. Preferably from 1969. I put many Mustang parts on my 69 from newer Mustangs, but it's a lot of work and sometimes affects a few other parts and modifications. If you want front discs I'd use some from a 69. I have manual discs, which make it easy to stop. My brother has manual drums on his 69 SCJ which work as well as mine. Adding power brakes sounds simple enough, but is a lot of work and involves different parts, pedal, pedal hanger, booster etc.

Ya, this site has been running out of bandwidth towards the end of the month, but it seems to be shorter periods of time.

Ingenious.

I'm witcha Jay. If I get four years out of a battery I go buy a lotto ticket.

I'd give the Standard Blue Streak a try.

You can't say that any more Jim.

Wow! The best until today I'd heard of was my neighbor who got 12 years out of his OE on his Toyota pickup.

More good info: https://www.deadnutson.com/1969-70-factoids-1/

Cool tip. I did not know that book existed.

Vapor lock after ten miles, I doubt it. What ignition system you using? If points, have you checked the points and condenser? You can disconnect the condenser to test if it's the cause. Not using the condenser for a period of time will fry the points though.

Oops, I was referring to the pull strap.

Speaking of fuel pumps Mike, I just installed a Carter fuel pump which has an attached fuel filter. Saves some extra work. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/carter,M4009,fuel+pump,6256

Thanks. The horizontal molding is handmade by my son, cuz there were a couple of holes in there that needed covered. He also made the entire door trim panel, as the arm rest came too far inward for my door bars to clear. The lower trim around the door handle is also handmade from aluminum. I do need to get a pull handle on it. Thinking about using one from a 67-68 Mustang. He thought the Mustang emblem would fit right in, which I think it does. He has a pretty good eye, and can weld like nobody's business. Ya, that steering wheel ring is too narrow for me also. And it gets slick with just a bit of sweat on your hands. I plan on getting a leather cover from Wheelskins. A fellow Mustanger has one, and they are a quality product.

Love that look. I did the door inserts in the same silver as my gauge bezels.

I just reinstalled mine for about the 50th time. The screw holes on the clock bezel on mine are not countersunk, they are flat.

Outstanding.