RPM

I'm sure glad you picked this forum Ridge Runner! You definately have some skeelz.

Sea, you crack me up with your sense of humor. I was once image posting challenged, but with help from this forum I no longer need therapy. I was convinced to open a (free) Photo Bucket account. The PB account will save your pics when your computer dies. When you upload an image into your library, click on it. You will then have a screen like this: Highlight the IMG link and copy it. You can then click and paste it anywhere in your post you like. Preview the post if you like to see if the pic is there. Good luck with car and posting pics. By the way, where do you call home?

J69302 why didn't you mention that fix earlier :) kidding. Thank you. 69Raven I had heard of the rod hole wearing, but mine looked good and round. It's in good shape probably because the crappy design caused the cable mount to break many moons ago resulting in no wear to the hole. Thanks again guys.

Yes, well it did until I added the Shelby mod where it bolts via a bracket to the lower control arm bolt. But it can obviously be made with just the two lower frame rail mounts. It uses the stock tapered bolts and matching recessed mounts. My lower control arm is adjustable and the bolt is in a fixed location. If I had the stock eccentric or the adjustable camber plates the hole in the Shelby bracket would need to be oval. I should have welded the bracket at the front edge of the tube closer to the LCA so the spacer is not as wide. The theory of the bracket is that it stiffens the lower control arm mount. Who knows if it does.

Since the heater/defrost selector door seal is non serviceable, I can't believe I'm the first to have this problem. Best I can figure is the rubber seal on the door has gotten harder over the years until it became so stiff the resistance broke the original cable bracket. When it was new and soft, I'm sure it worked fine. I had to remove the lower dash again to remove the housing. All the lube in Bako wouldn't free up the door enough to keep the cable from bending. I trimmed the seal edge with an exacto knife until the door moved ok. It's still stiffer than the temperate lever. I should've known the door was too tight when I rebuilt it. But an hour of labor and it works properly.

Well, the silicone spray lube worked pretty good. It's still a bit stiff at first going from defrost to heat. Think I'll try the Vaseline route or some white lithium.

Probably Glenn, but you'll have to pick it up in person :) I'm having issues with my personal messenger, can you email me at robertpmcdougal@gmail.com Thanks, Bob.

It depends on which wheels you plan on installing. The backspacing varies with the wheel diameter. If you can measure, or have the wheels measured, just compare it to your current backspace and see how much room you have available. In the front, my 2001 17x8 have 5-3/4" b/s which take a 1" spacer with stock control arms. The 2005 and newer have 1/2" more backspace. My 2010 are 18x8 with 6-1/4" b/s, but I can get away with a 1" spacer because I have tubular control arms with a smaller ball joint holder. In the rear, I use a 1-1/4" spacer to move the sidewall closer to the wheel opening.

Thanks guys, think I'll use some silicone lube, it didn't cross my mind.

I thought of lubing it prior to install but was concerned about the smell. What lube is odorless? And the 64 thousand dollar question, can it be lubed without removing the housing from the firewall? Well Ollie, this is another fine mess you've gotten me into.

I rebuilt the heater box a while ago and noticed that the moveable door which controls the Heat, Defrost or Off selection was pretty snug. This is the door on the left side of the box and is adjusted by the top control knob on the dash. Because the box had never been rebuilt, all the seals and foam were trashed or missing, which made both doors very loose. So I had nothing to compare to the rebuilt box. I checked the door for binding, and saw the cause was the flexible seal for the door. I figured with the leverage of the control arm it would move easier. When I installed the heater box and new cable wires, the right side control door worked just fine, but the left side started to bend the cable at the control lever. Has anyone had this issue, how do I fix it, what are my options?

Holy crap! That just sucks. How did I miss this bs? It "sounds" like his carrier is stepping up to the plate and doing the right thing. I retired as an auto adjuster from my second career. I'll follow along here to check your progress. That damage shouldn't evev be close to a total loss. There are fewer GT's than Mach 1's. PM me if you have any questions. Good luck

So cool! Kinda wish I didn't have a shaker.

I didn't know that hood existed until you guys started discussing it. Makes you wonder why it never took off since so many folks like it, including me. I especially like the rear heart extractors. Those NACA ducts are cool, very functional and are still used today because they are the best design.

Thank you!

I fully agree. I only welded about half of the gazillion rosettes while on the rotisserie

Hey John, is there any truth to the rummer that you have a classic Mustang in your garage???

You're just cheating with all your fancy equipment :) Imagine how much easier those inner rockers would've been with that spinner thingy. Did you laugh when the neighbor hit the skids?

Well it worked Pak. How'd you do it? Very nice hood ideas! Looks like with Ridge Runner on board we may start to see some really cool hoods.

Very nice work.

This thread has me fired up!

Excellent thread, thanks.

Ok, you're forgiven. that's the main reason I installed mine also. State Patrol? What a pita.

Looks nice. You better slow down or you'll pass most of the folks here. This doesn't look like your first rodeo.

Niiiice work! Did you consider using acme threads for more strength due to the weight of the car?