Dean

Hi, for what it is worth I had an issue with the fuel gauge on my 1970 convertible. It was constantly showing empty and after trying various things including grounds and wire connectivity, I replaced the sender unit in my fuel tank. My understanding is that ford gauges work off a variable resistance (approx between 0 - 78 ohms) from the sender unit. (~0 ohms = full & ~78 ohms = empty). Once I replaced the sender unit, the gauge did start working but a full tank of gas sent the needle a fair way past the f mark on the gauge. This was annoying me (I also don't like picture frames hanging on walls at an angle) so I manually added a small amount of resistance (cut into the sender wire) until the gauge needle sat exactly on the F (full) mark. This trick has worked well and it can assist in adjusting the gauge reading based on the sometimes pretty poor and inaccurate fuel sender units presently available.

Most likely a separate problem but I had issues with many of my instrument cluster lights and found it was the flexible circuit board that everything plugs into. Over the years all the copper connections go dark brown like an old penny. I used a dremel with a polishing pad and some cutting compound and polished all the connections back to a bright copper look. Fixed all my problems. Not one of my globes was actually blown, just many bad connections.

Hi guys, best thing to remove the glass mirror from the metal back is to soak the assembly in petrol (gasoline) for a day or two. The mirror and glue comes off completely without damaging anything. drake make a good reproduction mirror glass for the passenger side that is slightly convex giving you a better field of view. While the glass was off, i modified the frame so the tension can be adjusted without having to remove the new glass again. I have been meaning to join the forum and will do over the next few days. Will also include some pictures which may help somebody with the notorious 'loose' mirror issue.