dream car

Ivo, this is the suicide hot line calling... can I talk you down from the roof? Please step away from the edge!
First, why do you want to put a GM distributor on a Ford? You profess that "I'm completely new to the electrical stuff".  The new distributor and coil won't make any noticeable difference. It won't make your car run better, and frankly is probably a waste of time, money and effort. The stock OEM system was used in racing these cars back in the day, and the new parts will not improve on that. I'm an electrical engineer and know from a lifetime of experience that every step away from stock is a step in the direction of generic and unproven parts (in your application) that will lead to unintended consequences. The HEI was developed in 1974 by GM because of mandated emission policies. A 69 does not have those issues. It is true that the HEI is able to deliver more spark thanks to the electronic ignition-control module, but so what? It simply isn't needed. Send the stock distributor out to be re-curved if needed, and learn how the weights, vacuum advance, and timing affect engine performance. This can make a huge difference.
Second, since you are "completely new to the electrical stuff", don't change to a one wire alternator. The alternator of choice for a true upgrade to these cars is a 3G. That's the third generation of Ford alternators, and it will charge at a lower RPM. I understand that ONE wire sounds easier to install, but it is not an improvement. Check PA Performance alternators, and keep in mind that more amperage is not necessarily better. If you go over 95 amps it will take more power to turn the alternator- more power than a single v-belt can apply. You will need to go to a dual v-belt system, or a serpentine system. The serpentine will require dumping the old fan, using electric fans, and changing all the pulleys and mounting brackets on the front of the engine. The electric fans drag a ton of power and require an even bigger alternator. This increases cost and is unneeded if you go with a moderate but true upgrade of only 95 amps, which is probably 3 times more than the stock alternator. You would be surprised how many people complain about issues with their aftermarket serpentine belt system. Yes I know that some people will say that they use a single v-belt, but PA Performance deals with the complaints on a daily basis, and insist that it should not be done.
Just my unsolicited two cents.

There are many other ways to buy them, goggle is your friend for parts search :)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2001,mustang,4.6l+v8+dohc,1372643,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper%2C+rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,14204

Car-part.com is also a good source for used parts, but I didn't see any Cobra calipers listed. 
https://www.car-part.com/mobile/index.htm

Sound like your new sharp clutch rod poked a hole on the clutch fork.  As you drove it made the hole larger and larger and cause the clutch paddle go lower and lower, that just my thought.

For the ' free play dem ' the Shop Manual suggests .136.  For your purposes and for now that should be slightly less than 1/8".  About the firewall spring my method is to tie a 3-4 foot length of cord or similar to the Z bar end and let it hang loose or on the ground,  Attach the  other end of the spring to the firewall.  Retrieve the loose end of the cord and get it into the engine bay in the correct location above the Z bar.  From there you should be able to pull the cord/spring and make the spring attachment to the Z bar.  Brian

Dont know what size you need. found this on Amazon for $2.52  search- Dorman 61106 drain cock

I use a garbage pail lid. 

According to Barnett who is a builder that frequents this site and has done 50+ Mustangs:
Go with 15x7 with a 4.25 backspace (back of the wheel to the mounting surface) with a 5 x 4.5 lug pattern. He recommends Specialty Wheels. At one time the shipping was $16 per wheel if ordered individually, but $50 per wheel when ordering four, so you will need to review current shipping practices.
The largest tire on the front that won't hit slightly under some conditions is a P235/60R15. If you want "The Look" go with BF Goodrich TA radials with raised white letters. The second most popular tire is Cooper, which actually gets a slightly better satisfaction rating.

The BF lettering is a pain to keep clean due to the leaching the coopers lettering is holding up 10 times better

I'm pretty sure putting a cheby part on your Mustang is a felony and grounds for immediate arrest.

Warmer weather is here. 

This is where I found the part numbers: http://averagejoerestoration.com/1969-mustang-light-bulb-replacement-chart/

I take it that there is no price that is is FREE

Sometimes the connector goes causing the switch to overheat and fail. Replacing the switch when this happens is a temporary solution unless you replace the mating connector.
If you can get it to work, leave it on for a while then touch the wires coming out of the connector with your hand. If you feel heat, replace the connector as well. Unplug the connector and look for signs of burning on the electrical sockets or plastic inside the connector. This is a sign the connector is bad. If the contact is bad enough, you may not be ale to get the lights to work.
As mentioned above many people buy a relay kit and use the switch to only pull in the relay. The advantage of this is you do not run the high current the headlights requires through the switch. This current is what causes the connector and switch to fail.

If I may put my two cents in,  Mount the toploader and shifter in the car first, you will have a good idea where the shifter location in relation to you sitting position. If the shift lever need to be straight, or bend back.  Last solution, if you cannot find a shift lever bend backward is to custom make one from a straight lever.  Cut half way through just above the two mounting hole, jam the lever in a solid place and bend back the lever till desire angle achieved, try it on the shifter before weld the gap.  A shifter boot should cover the welded spot.  
Summit have one bent backward, don't know the hole pattern will fit Super Shifter.
Hurst Shifters 5388550 Hurst Competition Plus Flat Shifter Sticks | Summit Racing

It looks like you just have to go by the description- the Moog part doesn't say it has roller bearings, even though it costs more, and Opentracker does:
Crafted to outperform OE replacements, Moog's idler arms are solid one-piece designs with all new hardware and grease fittings for serviceability. This durable design, coupled with the ability to flush out contaminants and re-grease the idler arm ensures that you'll not only restore your vehicle's performance, you'll also make it last much longer. Plus, Moog covers all of their idler arms with a lifetime warranty handled in-house here at DST.
Improve the steering of your classic with an Opentracker roller idler arm. A roller idler arm reduces steering effort and allows greater feedback to the driver by keeping the steering geometry in check. Replacing the factory rubber bushing with  grease-able bearings maintains proper position of the center link as it moves from side to side. Manual steering cars will especially appreciate this upgrade as the reduced steering effort results in more precise steering input while cornering. Slow speed steering is also greatly improved making it ideal for street cars as well. Opentracker roller idler arms are made in the US.
 

I agree with 1969_Mach1. It's the wrong manifold. I looked at mine (1969 351W 4v) and it has a 1/2" of clearance. Attached pic.

Cunifer tubing is an outstanding choice for brake and fuel lines and is considered the "elite" material in the modern extreme performance and luxury car world today.  Several manufacturers use cunifer tubing exclusively and many of the top-tier custom builders around the country use it daily.  It is equally corrosion resistant as stainless and when polished is difficult to tell the difference between it and stainless.  Unless you have a desire for the specific aesthetic appearance of stainless, cunifer is the best choice from all other mechanical perspectives (ease of flaring, ease of bending, no worry of cracking at the flare and/or work hardening, more vibration resistant, etc.) and it can be "worked" with conventional flaring tools, benders & cutters with far greater success than stainless in the average home shop.  Beyond that, it's actually kind of "fun" to work with too!

Welcome Sal to 69stang
     When testing starter solenoid, its a good idea to disconnect the positive wire to the ignition coil, so the motor will only crank, and not start.

Aslanefe is right, just adjust the UCA, and LCA till you get108" wheelbase.  The front left wheel probably sustained damage from a side impact, caused the twist on the tower.  Post picture after fix.

Just installed my geared hi-torque mini starter past weekend.  It solved the hot starting issue I had.  Now the motor crank, and turn without hesitation.  Go to NPD they have a good selections.  I bought the all black, 180-lb model. (don't want to give you a wrong parts number)
 

Make my eyes watering too.  Wish her a speedy recovery.

If I were you, I'd go to great lengths to get the V belts to work. I didn't even think to try a double V belt when my single belt kept slipping with a ~100 amp alternator. I even used a turnbuckle to tighten the belt. Even though I dislike the serpentine belt look, it does work. 
My need to use the 100 amp alt was a classic rabbit hole affair, which I don't recommend. Since I just had to have a shaker air cleaner, tIhen found it sat too high thru the hood. Shoulda milled the Stealth intake, but lowered the motor. Which required custom motor mounts, engine crossmember, electric fans since stock interfered with lower radiator hose, custom tranny mounts to keep angle correct.
All for a damn shaker. With dual fans, power windows, and stereo, I went big on the alternator. 
In hindsight, I'd keep it stock. Much more simple, and stock works just fine. 
 

Try  NO-Ox-ID special electric contact grease, improve conductivity and fight corrosion.

It could also be the float bowls gasket is leaking. I would clean up the mess real well first. Start the engine let it idle, so the carb is under pressure. See if you can detect any dripping, or seepage while engine running.  With engine off , leave overnight see if you can detect any wet spot next day.

It could also be a bulb issue?  Try to replace one bulb at time see if you can isolate the problem. Sometime the contact in the socket oxidized and cause mild shortage, clean contact area with dielectric grease.  Last solution, get a voltage reading on the bulb, and radio terminal