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dream car
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Posts posted by dream car
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Looking at your pictures seems like the return spring is bottom-out already. If you could adjust and place little more tension on the spring, it will pull the pedal all the way up.
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I don't believe your Hurst shifter is stock. mines came with a Ford shifter. If you don't like the height of your shifter, you can cut the shift stick below the rubber boot and reweld to your preferred height. You can also position shifter toward right, away from the steering wheel. Post a picture, like to see how high is your shifter.
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9 hours ago, Nuzzlet said:I have a 1969 Mustang, 351w mounted to a T5 trans, and aftermarket 4 wheel disc brakes. What options do I have for getting the parking brake to work? What have you guys done to restomod your parking brakes? Currently, I just leave it in gear, but that is far less than ideal. Thanks!
CURRENTLYI USE THIS WHEN PARKED.
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On 12/30/2020 at 11:50 PM, dmck said:MIne is mounted between the battery and the wheel/suspension bulge. I have removed the dipstick (where all the oil was escaping under pressure) and connected a tube from dipstick to catch can
Just curious Dmck, how much oil do you catch with the oil catch can in a given period, or mileage ?.
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If I may put my two cents in, Mount the toploader and shifter in the car first, you will have a good idea where the shifter location in relation to you sitting position. If the shift lever need to be straight, or bend back. Last solution, if you cannot find a shift lever bend backward is to custom make one from a straight lever. Cut half way through just above the two mounting hole, jam the lever in a solid place and bend back the lever till desire angle achieved, try it on the shifter before weld the gap. A shifter boot should cover the welded spot.
Summit have one bent backward, don't know the hole pattern will fit Super Shifter.
Hurst Shifters 5388550 Hurst Competition Plus Flat Shifter Sticks | Summit Racing
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5 hours ago, KMD88 said:Hi everyone,
Was driving and–somewhere along the way–one of my hood pins came loose. Luckily, the pin stayed but the nut and washer flew off. Can anyone tell me the size/dimensions of the nut and washer that goes under the pins?
Thanks!
If you got two pins, just remove the other one and see the washer and nut size.
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On 11/21/2020 at 3:38 PM, SHELBY69 said:Do they all make a loud GRAUNCH should from rear left going over speed bumps? Sounds like drive Drive shaft hitting speed bump maybe ?
she makes similar noise on hard acceleration like maybe an axle tapping a spring ?
Check your rear shock absorber, sound like worn out rubber mount.
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On 11/19/2020 at 12:12 PM, Bishop1911 said:Sorry, i didnt forget or abandon.
My life has been so hectic the last couple weeks.
I still have the car and am going to be shimming anf moving control atm with my buddy. He is gonna work with me and we are considering doing the alignment ourselves.
I am now looking at the tools and gauges for alignment.
There are a lot of different ones. Does amyone have a recommendation for these? I would ptefer digital if accurate and affordable.
I am thinking getting the tools and learning to do this will be good as i will have to have it done again at least one more time after all welding and body work is done.
So if i learn to do it i will prob be better off. Snd i can take the time and take as long as i need. I figure the other shop wants to charge 150 for alignment if straight forward, but if they have to start adjustiing, they are going hourly....
I could also go and pay the 30 bucks for them to put on rack and size up snd tell me but I know the arm needs shims and or adjusted out. And every time you adjust it is another hour min. And it will get to 300 to 500 fast...all for an alignment that is one time and just to get us driving it for a year til i dismantle
So trying to make best call.
Learning this may be a good thing too. Altho time consuming. I will have time coming up soon. Some time off work.
If you thinking of DIY, here is a link to self alignment tools, or you could build your self with a welder and square, or round pipe.( Hagerty Media )
Taking another shot at do-it-yourself alignment (msn.com)
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11 hours ago, aslanefe said:As far as I know, the holes on passenger side on 351W is not offset. One short bolt, one long bolt on each runner. The boss on front of the runners is tall and takes the longer bolts, angle of photo makes it look like holes are offset.
Good example of optical illusion, my eyes say it's offset also.
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Driver side C90E-9431-B passenger side D30E-9430-DA
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If you interested. found an old set of exhaust manifold in the corner of garage, came off of 69 GT-350. Removed back around mid 70's replaced with header. Will let go for $200 for the pair plus exact shipping cost. PM me if interested. P.S. you might have to re-do the pipe, because this might not fit your existing setup.
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Welcome Sal to 69stang
When testing starter solenoid, its a good idea to disconnect the positive wire to the ignition coil, so the motor will only crank, and not start.
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
Check this from CJ Pony, and read the reviews.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-contour-coil-springs-1-drop-mustang-1967-1973/p/CSC6773/
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56 minutes ago, BlueCoupe said:It's printed on https://www.papilio.com/inkjet waterproof adhesive film media.html but any vinyl sticker should work. I just used my home inkjet printer. I used vectr.com to make the gauge face.
Very nice BlueCoupe, I think you should sell for $10 each include first class shipping, since you got 5 extra. Maybe you need to print more?
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6 hours ago, aslanefe said:Can you post a picture of how you took the above measurements?
Looks like driver side shock tower is bent inwards on front UCA bolt location and outwards on rear bolt location creating total of 1/2 inches of twist. This will move the left front wheel forward about 1 inch compared to right side when you get caster of both right and left to almost same degree.
Temporarily, I would adjust the adjustable UCA 1/2 inches longer on front if you can, if not put 1/2 shim under front. Permenant fix would be to find a place that can twist the tower and get it correct on driver side.
Aslanefe is right, just adjust the UCA, and LCA till you get108" wheelbase. The front left wheel probably sustained damage from a side impact, caused the twist on the tower. Post picture after fix.
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Your passenger side measurement is on the dot. Ford spec for 1969 Mustang is 108 inch.
Could you take pictures from underside looking up, I like to see the strut adjusting nuts positions reference to the thread. Both side passenger, and driver side for comparison.
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Welcome to the 69stang forum Bishop
Could you take a simple wheelbase measurement, measure the center of the front wheel to center of the rear wheel. On both side. Make sure steering wheel is centered. Are both side identical ?
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2 hours ago, EastYorkStang said:Did you secure it with a bolt into the actual frame or where is it bolted to ? Thinking I might do this.
It bolt onto original mounting holes, you might need little longer bolts, because the new starter is little thicker at the mount plate.
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3 hours ago, EastYorkStang said:Ive got LED tail lights that blink sequentially. Recently the flasher unit stopped working. Installed a normal flasher that will make the tail lights blink like normal but not sequentially. Which flasher should I get. Ive been all over the web looking into this. Come across ones that slow the rate If all my lights are LED.
Using incandescent bulbs for the front turn signal.
Don't know what brand of aftermarket sequential unit you have??? You can try this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWFMRYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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On 10/2/2020 at 10:15 AM, Grabber70Mach said:Does anyone know of a Ford stock application PGM starter that would fit a 351C with Auto? It's an AOD if that makes a difference.
Just installed my geared hi-torque mini starter past weekend. It solved the hot starting issue I had. Now the motor crank, and turn without hesitation. Go to NPD they have a good selections. I bought the all black, 180-lb model. (don't want to give you a wrong parts number)
Grabber70Mach reacted to this -
" Its quieter on the road with less wind sound" Just want to hear the rumbling of exhaust, window open with wind blow through my hair ( Oops window open I guess that defeat aerodynamic).
"Early testing of MPG is showing about 4 MPG increase" Gas is Cheap down here in Texas, I'm happy with my 10-12 MPG.
I'm glad Nate's is happy with his result. ( does his engine get overheat ? )
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Breaker come with long terminal stud bolt allow multiple terminal connections under the hood. Fuse block good for under dash mount for interior accessories .
Lower Clutch Rod.... Does this look right to you???
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Sound like your new sharp clutch rod poked a hole on the clutch fork. As you drove it made the hole larger and larger and cause the clutch paddle go lower and lower, that just my thought.