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pgold

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  1. pgold

    ZZZZZzzzzZZZZ

    Cobra Jet Ram Air Patent.pdf Here is drawing I downloaded some years ago.
  2. I'm in Brisbane. Australia. You would be heading into winter on your side of the world. what are winters like in Delaware?
  3. AAAwsome looking car. Comprehensive restoration to be proud of. You may need to consider crowd control when showing. I love your red and black interior.
  4. pgold

    ZZZZZzzzzZZZZ

    Thanks for the photos. I think one of my Mustang mates here in Brisbane has a template for the pie hole cut outs. Is anyone making / selling the rubber seal ? What controls the vacuum servo flapper?
  5. pgold

    ZZZZZzzzzZZZZ

    I'm in Brisbane Australia. There is a fair few mustangs here but I have not seen functional Mach 1 hood scoop here. Shaker hoods and B9's yes. I have a document / drawing somewhere for the scoop and air cleaner for 1968 428 CJ. I guess 69 is similar design. My 69 was F code 302 and has I think a genuine ford non functional Mack 1 scoop. Now fitted with 351C 2V - Edelbrock F351 2V and 600 Holley with holley style air cleaner. So I would need complete new ford 4V style air cleaner to make a start with this mod.
  6. pgold

    ZZZZZzzzzZZZZ

    I to was board and went looking at old posts in Members Only - Mustang Unit Numbers section and noticed Ridge Runner You have or had a 1969 Gulf Stream Aqua 302 Ram Jet. I have not seen how FORD made this happen. Would like to see some photo's of under hood and air cleaner. Lots of 69 and 70 mustangs and other Fords with this non functional hood scoop.
  7. The RRS kit would be designed to work with there coil over strut and rack and pinion kits. There would be no provision for a upper control arm in RRS notch kit. A strut tower kit for Boss 429 is probably what you need to look for.
  8. I have had a good out come with ACP Max Core 24" 2 core. Can get in small and BB versions. It is thicker than standard ford 24" but is made to be a direct replacement for FORD 24".
  9. Have a look at this conversion thread for 66 using reverse lights for indicators ( turn signals ). https://forum.mustang.org.au/index.php?topic=27150.msg336845#msg336845
  10. Shep, I ordered mine from Richmond Brake and Clutch in Melbourne 03 9853 2113. No stock in Brisbane at the time. Pads to suit VT Commodore callipers fitted to my 69 $137.45 delivered to Brisbane. Much cheaper than EBAY. They may be closed with the covid 19 lock down at present. DP31158C may be the pads you need.
  11. Shep69 have you tried EBC redstuff disk pads. Made a considerable improvement to my brakes. cheers Paul.
  12. Hurray your back. I could log on with my android phone yesterday but my PC couldn't find new server. All good today. TV constantly updating on protests and Looting in USA. hope you are all safe and well. Cheers Paul.
  13. I could have worded it better. Don't install fuse links in earth cabels. Put a fuse link in circuit with the new 100A 4GA cable from B+ alternator to solenoid post ( Battery side ). The mounting bolts may earth alternator but my new alternator came with earth bolt terminal and instructions to install earth strap. Removed alternator had earth cable to engine but definitely not capable 100A. Mike65 search 1G to 3G alternator conversion Mach 1 Driver wrote a very informative post.
  14. The CJ PONYPARTS part is designed to be OEM so probably rated at about 60A . I would install cable to match your alternator output , ie 95A. Same size cable from B+ to solenoid post and a matching fusable link is a good idea.
  15. Members 508 1,297 posts Report post Posted 1 hour ago Indeed I will! And: I have no idea. The shunt circuitry is designed based upon very small differences of wire resistance due to wire gauge, length, and joint location, and is something that I cannot (will not? care not to?) fool around with. The circuit is designed to allow milli-amps to the ammeter while the rest of the circuit runs on the order of 30-60 amps. You need a micro-ohm meter to do it correctly and I do not know Ford's design in enough detail. After 50+ years, wire resistance changes due to age/corrosion making it impossible to reverse-engineer the circuitry with enough fidelity. Hi Midlife, I'm a retired electrician so I understand the theory. I'm not planing repairing amp meter. I still have some of the external regulator wiring and 38BK 38A BK to remove to tidy up wiring. I just did what was required to get car back on road to do a weekend run. Stanthorpe is a area 2.5 hours drive SW from Brisbane doing it tuff from drought and bush fires. They have had some rain and country looks green but their dam is empty and trucking water in for town water. No grape harvest this year - no work for backpackers - so they are not in town spending money in local business. So 13 mustangs and passengers spent the weekend in town doing wine tours , function at local hotel and dining at cafes and motel accommodation. We also raised a nice donation for local Volunteer Fire Brigade. Sorry for getting of topic. Cheers Paul.
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