Busch
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Posts posted by Busch
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Would somebody with a 70 please take a measurement from the top of the vacuum tree on the firewall to the bottom of the export brace? Also, is the tree roughly in the center of the car or is it a little bit towards the passenger side of the car?
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I found out about the JAK bracket in a parts for sale ad on a Boss 302 forum. The president of JAK Precision Machining left his email in that ad.
I contacted Tim this morning and he said he they still plenty of the JAK brackets in stock. He also shared a few photos of a JAK bracket next to a Boss 302 and a Boss 429 bracket.
Tim Barker
President
JAK Precision Machining LLC
972-342-0588timbarker01@sbcglobal.net
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Might as well provide an update for this issue now that the forum is working again. After researching a bit I dug up a thread here on this forum from 2019 and found that there was a company that made a bracket that fits a double pumper named Sanco Specialties. The guy running that company disappeared in his airplane so the bracket production stopped several years ago. Recently a company in Texas named JAK Precision Machining reverse engineered a Sanco bracket and started offering them for sale. I picked up one of the JAK brackets and found the fit to be excellent.
Mach1 Driver and RPM reacted to this -
I’m interested in a set as well if you’re looking for customers
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The pulleys I had ended up working fine.
Power Steering - DO0R-B
Alternator - C5AF-10353-H
Water Pump - D1AE-8509-BA
Crank - D00E-6312-B
The issue I was having with those pulleys turned out to be caused by the water pump fan hub being installed at the wrong height. I never knew it was wrong before since everything was just a cobbled together mismatch of parts that I made work with some homegrown brackets/spacers.
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
I picked up the replacement floor the other day? What color is the floor supposed to be? My car was built mid July in Metuchen.
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It is likely I would be doing the work by myself. I’d rather not remove the windshield if I don’t have to.
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The floor on my 69 Mach 1 is in worse shape than I thought it was…go figure
It looks like a full floor replacement would probably be easier than two full length replacement patch panels. I’ve been in contact with a local place that has one in stock, so I will not need to worry about shipping.
What is the best method for getting a full floor into the car? Remove the doors?
Any tips from anybody that has done one would be much appreciated.
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Thank you @stangs-R-me that info is definitely encouraging
@EastYorkStang I’m not opposed to using dynamat or something similar. I just figured a direct fit part might be easiest assuming it actually fits
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Anybody used a Quiet Ride Solutions firewall pad before? How was the fit?
I’m considering one for my 69
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What is the correct booster for a mid July 1969 Mach 1 built in Metuchen?
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One thing I forgot to mention is that I did have to swap the oil pressure sending unit to the dummy light style like the tach cars use. I bought mine from Orlando Mustang
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There is a company in Pennsylvania that makes a reproduction in dash tach that is pretty similar to the originals. It does not require any modifications to the original non tach wiring harness. The alternator warning light does function a little bit differently than an original though. It comes on for overvoltage and undervoltage. My paperwork said about 11.8v for undervoltage and about 14.2v for overvoltage. On my car it is actually about 11.5v for undervoltage and about 14.5v for overvoltage.
I plug the tach directly into the tach output on my MSD 6AL box. On my dash cluster I chose to move the fuel gauge to the right side and I kept the alternator gauge on the left side, since I have temp and oil pressure gauges on the console. It could be setup just like an original tach car if a person wanted it that way though.
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I am probably not able to use anything that mounts using the passenger side rear carb stud. My HP series 4150 has an accelerator pump pretty much obstructing that stud.
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I have a 69 Mach 1 that has been swapped from a 351W to a 351C. The car is currently using a homegrown cable bracket and the stock cable with an HP4150 on top of a Holley Strip Dominator. My current setup works fine, but the bracket isn’t particularly pleasing to the eye in the looks department.
Anybody know what bracket fits?
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What is the correct crank pulley for a 70 M code with power steering but not AC
Also, what is the correct water pump pulley?
The ones I have here are stamped D00E-6312-B and D1AE-8509-BA
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12 minutes ago, 1969_Mach1 said:Looks nice. What are you going to do for the fuel and temp gauges? Fuel gauge should be where the oil psi gauge is currently located, temp gauge should be where the ammeter currently is located.
On mine I decided to keep the original alternator gauge on the left side. Fuel gauge moved to the right side just like the original tach equipped cars. I have oil pressure and temperature gauges on the console, so having temp in the dash doesn’t help much. Of course you could also argue that the alternator gauge in the dash does very little as well and isn’t particularly useful. The tach has oil pressure and alternator and brake warning lights just like a factory tach has.
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1 hour ago, danno said:This certainly looks very much like the original. Who makes this? Anyone who knows the cars would realize the dash is not original, but it is so close. The original tach cluster had a trip odometer ( which itself is extremely rare in 1969) and a temp gauge.
But what you have is so good! Who makes it?
The tach I have was made by Tribute Automotive. It has modern internals and plugs into my MSD tach output. The alternator warning light works a little different than an original. With this setup the warning light comes on for undervoltage and overvoltage (11.8v and 14.2v)
I did not purchase it directly from them though. The guys at Orlando Mustang did the conversion on my cluster.
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There are reproductions of the in dash tach available. The one I have is made by a company in Pennsylvania. It does not require any modifications to the original non tach harness. I did have to swap the oil pressure sending unit to the dummy light style unit. The tach has the same warning lights as an original. I kept the alternator gauge on my cluster because I have oil pressure and temp gauges in the ashtray on the console.
If a person were to buy the advertised cluster for $900 and then turned around and bought a new tach under dash and under hood harness, you would have quite a bit more invested than converting with a modern repro.
I’m sure there is still a market for original stuff like the seller is offering, but there are other options.
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Thank you for all the replies. I ended up finding a place in Florida that offers a plug-n-play conversion using an exact looking repro tach made by a company in Pennsylvania. It will allow me to keep my alternator gauge on the left side and also will have the alternator and oil pressure warning lights that function. I don't particularly care about the alternator gauge, but I have a temperature sensor in the console, so adding another temp gauge to the dash doesn't help either. Comes with a 1 year warranty. The conversion is not cheap obviously, but nothing with these cars is. Nearest I can tell, it would be similar price for me to piece all the factory stuff together like Midlife mentioned as this plug-n-play conversion costs.
Also, BlueCoupe.....nice job on that tach. That thing looks great.
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I have a 69 Mach 1 without a factory tach. My car currently has an autometer mounted on the column hooked to a MSD 6AL. The problem with the current setup is the tach is not particularly easy to see, and if I move it up further on the column it blocks the other gauges in the dash. Seems like an in dash tach would be the way to go. I poked around the internet a little bit and did not find anybody making reproduction in dash tachs for these cars. Should I start looking for a donor tach from an original tach equipped car? I'd like to stay with the original look
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2 hours ago, danno said:Yes, keep in mind that some speakers will get in the way of the window coming down. The window mechanism hits the magnet on the back of the speaker. You are probably ok with most mentioned, but be aware that it can be an issue. I got mine installed and they sounded great. I thought everything was perfect, and I tried to roll down my window. I had to move mine from behind the metal door shell to have the rim of the speaker on the passenger's side of the door panel.
What brand of speakers were you using that had the fitment issues?
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I’m looking for a dash speaker also. My car is a non AC car.
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11 hours ago, mustangstofear said:Infinity makes the best fit and sound of all the ones we've tried.
Do you have a part number for any of the Infinity stuff?
70 vacuum tree location
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
I had assumed those holes were pre drilled. Since I made this thread I’ve poked around the internet a little and found a handful of decent photos. I think for what I’m doing the exact location will not be critical.
@jmlay thank you for the link. The pics on the site were excellent, plus I needed that plug kit anyway. Even cooler for me was that Dead Nuts On relocated to PA so shipping to me in VA was very fast.
Another member of this forum @buening posted this pretty good pic a while back that showed up in a search.