BuckeyeDemon

thank you for the comment.
the block seems fine.  you'll need to finish the decks and bores .  I changed to main studs so he honed the mains.  I'm confident that they would have verified those regardless though.  I bought it from summit.

they are 295/55 (28x12.5).  not a huge tire, but given I don't have it jacked up in the back, it's pretty much maxed out for a Falcon considering worst case suspension travel (e.g. full compression on one side) and the fact the housing has about 1/4" clearance to the floor.
…..also a few more engine pics if anyone is interested.....


 

a few status updates....
 
engine has been at the shop since mid November.  the pistons were spec'd out and made very quickly which helped.  It looks like it will end up in the 13 to 13.5: 1 range as hoped.   A lot of the machine work on the block and work/balancing on the rotating assembly is finished (need to rework crank snout/modify damper).  he is working on things like clearancing pushrod holes, etc.  I think it's likely to have the engine running in a month or so.

 
a lot of work to get the undercarriage and trunk into the first coats of primer....



 
started hanging the panels to see how bad things are (not too bad).  The original hood is just to help align the fenders, then I will put on the teardrop.


 

a few status updates....
 
engine has been at the shop since mid November.  the pistons were spec'd out and made very quickly which helped.  It looks like it will end up in the 13 to 13.5: 1 range as hoped.   A lot of the machine work on the block and work/balancing on the rotating assembly is finished (need to rework crank snout/modify damper).  he is working on things like clearancing pushrod holes, etc.  I think it's likely to have the engine running in a month or so.

 
a lot of work to get the undercarriage and trunk into the first coats of primer....



 
started hanging the panels to see how bad things are (not too bad).  The original hood is just to help align the fenders, then I will put on the teardrop.


 

I can't remember if those are small slotted holes, but if not, consider putting in a rivut nut (or equivalent) and a matching fastener.

the expansion volume with the tanks on the sides IS NOWHERE near the volume of a top mounted tank.   sure you can have a very small amount at the very top on both sides and if you lower the fluid level, you then give up cooling fins (and there isn't much volume in those cooling tubes).
...and any response or clarification with regards to antifreeze and the dragstrip?  I want to be sure I understand the rules as I have never had an issue at the four tracks I've been too (nor do they state a rule on the webpages) and I have never found anything in the NHRA general rules and regulations with regards to coolant.
 

I have a stockish style radiator (meaning tanks are at the top and bottom) and run the coolant level to just above the coolant tubes.  So it has the entire top tank for expansion.  So far, under my operating conditions, I have never had any fluid in my overflow.  So consider adjusting your coolant level?  Of course, if you are using a crossflow radiator with the tanks on the side, you really wouldn't have this benefit and a reservoir would be needed.

I have a stockish style radiator (meaning tanks are at the top and bottom) and run the coolant level to just above the coolant tubes.  So it has the entire top tank for expansion.  So far, under my operating conditions, I have never had any fluid in my overflow.  So consider adjusting your coolant level?  Of course, if you are using a crossflow radiator with the tanks on the side, you really wouldn't have this benefit and a reservoir would be needed.

I add water so it just covers the cores which is the area of the radiator that should be transferring the heat out.  that basically gives the whole top tank area room for expansion.  

when I stage the car I have the horn select switch to set to control the line lock/two step when I push the rimblow.  When I stage the car, I set the line lock switch to the position, such that when I activate the rim blow and the horn select switch is set to control the line lock/two step position, then it will send a signal to the MSD box that has a two step rev limiter.  So basically, i'm activating the line lock solenoid simultaneously (but it's not doing anything since I didn't put any pressure in the brakes).  however,  it will also set the rev limiter to my two step limit (e.g. 5000 RPM instead of the normal 6500 when the two step input is active).  Doing this allows my to have the throttle wide open, prior to launch.  This results in FULL air flow through the motor (e.g. high speed airflow through the manifold which should result in normal operation of a carb with the boosters).  This alleviates issues with a carb having to rely on the accelerator pump circuit and manifold/air flow issues that can occur and low rpm.
 
If you aren't drag racing then  there is no need for a two step or really a line lock.
 

I have all parts now for engine that I will get except for pistons, pushrods, headgaskets and rod/main bearings.  Plan to take it to shop in November for machining.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
….and in process of getting out scaring, pitting, etc from the undercarriage....

strange.  the old photobucket images are now shown, but the newer postimage photos aren't.  did Microsoft edge make a change or did photobucket change something?
 
...anyways, a couple pics of the current stage of the falcon.

I have all parts now for engine that I will get except for pistons, pushrods, headgaskets and rod/main bearings.  Plan to take it to shop in November for machining.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
….and in process of getting out scaring, pitting, etc from the undercarriage....

I have all parts now for engine that I will get except for pistons, pushrods, headgaskets and rod/main bearings.  Plan to take it to shop in November for machining.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
….and in process of getting out scaring, pitting, etc from the undercarriage....

a 195 degree thermostat starts to open at 195 and takes a lot more temperature to open up fully.   consider changing to a 180 degree first.

strange.  the old photobucket images are now shown, but the newer postimage photos aren't.  did Microsoft edge make a change or did photobucket change something?
 
...anyways, a couple pics of the current stage of the falcon.

i don't get the comment about not finding a diaphragm clutch on a funny car.  i don't see how that has anything to do with a street or even a street/strip application.

what length rancho shocks?  or more important, at ride height, how much shock travel is available?  are the shocks bottoming out? or is the suspension bottoming out?

have all the brake lines and fuel lines/brackets finished up.  only need a few more parts for the engine before i can lug it to the machine shop. likely later this year.  cylinder head/manifold cam were finished up over Christmas.
             

I had noticed the fuel in the bowls wasn't visible  when looking into the glass sites after a period of time.  I had assumed it was evaporating out.  Likely at a much higher rate after driving due to heat soak, then tapering from there.  Fuel smell wasn't something that I used to pay much attention to because it wasn't noticable after an evening or so.  And that smell is probably more just the carbon monoxide from pulling into the garage.

i think its the opposite with regards to length.   this is simply because a longer primary tube length helps to isolate the neighboring cylinders from the pressure wave induced in a neighboring cylinder. 
for example a cylinder is just at the end of it's exhaust cycle and it approaches the overlap period (cylinder pressure should be almost nothing).  there will have been a cylinder prior to this that just cracked open it's exhaust valve and induced a high pressure pulse into the exhaust system.  the cylinder during overlap will be very sensitive to any pressure in the exhaust.  the longer tube helps isolate the cylinder better.
header primary lengths generally reduce in length as the rpm requirement increases because of the resistance of the pipe/unit length.
tri-y's help with space constraints compared to having all tubes merge at one point but can still act the same by taking advantage of keeping the increased separation by merging cylinders that aren't consecutive.
the book "Scientific Design of Exhaust & Intake Systems" is a nice easy read.
 
 
 

i think its the opposite with regards to length.   this is simply because a longer primary tube length helps to isolate the neighboring cylinders from the pressure wave induced in a neighboring cylinder. 
for example a cylinder is just at the end of it's exhaust cycle and it approaches the overlap period (cylinder pressure should be almost nothing).  there will have been a cylinder prior to this that just cracked open it's exhaust valve and induced a high pressure pulse into the exhaust system.  the cylinder during overlap will be very sensitive to any pressure in the exhaust.  the longer tube helps isolate the cylinder better.
header primary lengths generally reduce in length as the rpm requirement increases because of the resistance of the pipe/unit length.
tri-y's help with space constraints compared to having all tubes merge at one point but can still act the same by taking advantage of keeping the increased separation by merging cylinders that aren't consecutive.
the book "Scientific Design of Exhaust & Intake Systems" is a nice easy read.
 
 
 

really nice job.

thank you.   tig is so nice, with the ability to control the amount of material added, fusing, no spatter, etc.  i've come to the point where i just avoid using the mig 90% of the time.

donor roof is on the car now.