BuckeyeDemon

here's my little shack.

i did something similar last november. i had some plate laying around and welded it in. i guess it would have been smarter to angle it up a bit. i was trying to make it as invisible as possible. i don't see it as a difficult if it was angled down at the outside more and welded closer to the angle part of the flange.

i would expect the carburetor to be one of the last items you choose. consider contacting a professional company that specializes in carbs like (AED or Pro Systems) that builds and configures the carb to match your engine. i don't think the cost of one of these are that much more than an OTS Demon not designed for you engine. in the end the carb setup will be as close as you can get without dyno time. this is a 351W with a Victor (not super victor)

i'm not a fan of por-15. especially just putting it over rust. save that type of repair for a sorry show like pimp my ride. it looks like you have an interest in your car. just fix it right, be done with it and be proud of your effort. is it so far gone that it's not salvageable? i couldn't tell the extent of the damage from your pictures. are you going to put a vinyl roof back on? if you can save it, then you have to get all that rust out. either media blasting (if your car is a shell) or sanding it down and getting the pits out with the appropriate acid. then cut out the bad and weld in the patches where needed.

DP is the base part number for PPG brand epoxy primers. Epoxy primers seal out moisture unlike fill primers which can absorb moisture. Epoxy primers can be left as a topcoat in some situations. Epoxy primers don't sand well either. as mentioned in the other posts 2-part primers harden chemically instead of just air drying. the end result is a primer that doesn't shrink. it costs a lot more than the old 1 part primers but well worth it. screwing around with rattle can primers is crazy. just close your eyes and swipe the card for a good compressor.

my fit was sub par but easily fixed as illustrated in the photos of the following link. repoped quarters, tail light panel, and rear valance were surely contributors. however, looking at supposedly original cars reveals awful fit in this area. http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh270/buckeyedemon/69%20Mustang%20Mach%201/rear%20valance/?albumview=slideshow

i would recommend just fixing your original heads if that's the problem. if you don't drive it that much maybe they can knurl the guides to get you thru a couple of years. if you are anything like me, you will head down a slippery slope. i pulled out my 289, with the plan of simply freshening up the gaskets. that turned in to a complete rebuild, ported heads, all new valve train, induction, etc. my 351W was going to get freshened up, and has now turned into me buying the parts that should push 550 hp. in any case be careful. you'll buy a new set of heads with new springs and everything installed. you will then tell yourself that you can't install those worn rockers on those new heads, then you won't want to install those worn pushrods in those new rockers, then you won't want those new pushrods in those worn lifters...

the proper finish for your shock tower caps and hinges/springs should be natural (phosphate/oil) and not painted. painted hood hinges will look bad after opening and closing the hood a couple of times. because these two items are so highly visible, i would recommend not trying to simulate the finish with paint and just use the correct finish (while periodically wiping them with oil).

this was my experience. http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh270/buckeyedemon/69%20Mustang%20Mach%201/drivers%20side%20torque%20box/?albumview=slideshow

it's an old garage, that i stripped to the frame, re-sided, re-roofed, etc. it's insulated, air conditioned/climate controlled, has 13 sets of flourescents in the ceiling, 4 sets in the two side walls, two filtered air drops and 60A 220 service on every wall. you can see a little of it in my avatar. the last girl i dated said i loved this car more than her. she was so right! :tongue_smilie:

i threw this together. four pieces of box tube, tack welded together. then just tack welded a few casters on. took about 15 minutes once i had the steel and casters. it took about 15 minutes too take it apart a few months ago (cutoff wheel to nick the tack welds).

mine is a dearborn car also. it's stamped on the top of both shock towers and the fenders will cover it up. here is the passenger side shock tower and battery apron.

get the 9.5" manifold. They probably distinguish mainly because there are 9.2" deck blocks out there. you probably won't have to mill the intake, depending on what you are doing. for an intake it's the same as milling some material off the head. i doubt people machined out the intake everytime they cleaned up the surface of the head. if you are building a high hp motor you would probably port match the intake to heads anyways thus maybe machining to lower the intake down. i would guess an out of the box intake isn't going to align to the intake head port down to 0.020" anyways. just my opinion.

you could probably try to drill out the spot welds from both the top and the bottom, but my guess is that it will be tough to get all out and back in. you should try it, and let people know if it can be done!

bnickel: are you sure those white sidewall tires you referenced in your link are what the marti report was referring too? the invoice for my 69 mach says white side walls also, but it's the goodyear polyglas like in this link: http://www.kelseytire.com/pages/preformancetires.html

the "toe panel" is just a section of the firewall which extends from the cowl all the way to the floor where it is spotwelded. they typicaly call replacement patch panels toe boards or panels. the firewall is one piece. the "toe panel" or firewall is not part of the torque box. each front torque box is actually two pieces that are spot welded together. it sits just underneath the firewall. i remember researching them as well and was confused until i saw the pieces in my hands. here are some pictures for replacement of this firewall patch (patch panel is not correct for 69). http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh270/buckeyedemon/69%20Mustang%20Mach%201/drivers%20side%20toe%20board/

the two piece design is common. just search dynacorn and torque box. you could use the one piece, but you would have to drill out the welds. not a big deal, but why bother.

You shouldn't have to replace the frame rails to replace the torque boxes. However don't be surprised if there are some holes in the frame rails underneath the torque boxes. even if there are, just cut some metal and weld it in. however not cutting into the firewall is probably another story. i believe you will have to cut a small area of the toe board out. however if you make the correct cuts, and then reweld that cutout metal back in when you are done, then nobody should notice from either the front or underside. the main problem is that the top side of the torque box mounts onto the top side of the frame rail lip. if everything is as solid as you think, then why not just cut out the bottom part of the torque box (it is two pieces) and just replace that? that would be a very simple procedure and would still give you access to the potential rust in the frame rail. just buy the two piece torque boxes so you don't have to drill out the existing welds. below are some pics (my toe boards were removed) to maybe help visualize what it looks like. http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh270/buckeyedemon/69%20Mustang%20Mach%201/drivers%20side%20torque%20box/

i purchased this from NPD (40110-3A) about 5 months ago. i don't believe it's a Dynacorn panel. I had heard rumors of better lids coming out, but personally couldn't find any dynacorn or ford tooling lids.

just finished installing an aftermarket trunk lid for a 69 fastback. i remember some discussion on these awhile back, and i thought i would share the issues that i found with this piece. i am just a hobbyist so this was just my amateur experience. hopefully this helps anyone looking for or needing a trunk lid. http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh270/buckeyedemon/69%20Mustang%20Mach%201/trunk%20lid/?albumview=slideshow

Does this help?

Thanks for all the very positive feedback!

I posted this on another Mustang site, but thought I would add the same here. Made a custom set of subframe connectors. I'm trying to keep the car looking as stock as possible. I had an aftermarket set of subframe connectors originally installed, but they just didn't fit the theme. I thought these had the highest potential of looking period correct. I need something to stiffen up the car (500hp). However this was a major PITA. It's made from 11 gauge steel. The curvature of the pans made it very difficult. I had to remove some of the ribbing and relocate the drain holes. I still need to smooth a couple spots with a little duraglass.

i have a repop driver's side bracket i'll sell you. i just received it yesterday from virginia classic mustang. $20 total including shipping. you shouldn't have any problem installing it. just drill some holes, plug weld and grind. thanks for responding though. dan

Looking for an original rust free Driver's Side Rear Axle Bumper Bracket. This piece is spot welded to the rear frame rail and holds a rubber bumper. I just need the bracket. Mine is 69 Mustang, but I believe 64-70 are probably the same. Any help in locating one would be appreciated.