BuckeyeDemon

if you have not purchased radiator/water pump parts, then consider switching to a 70 setup where the inlet and outlet of the radiator are on opposite sides. this impacts the timing pointer location on the damper. ATI offers the various configurations for Ford.

get a lower profile t-style pan.

i'm waiting for the shop making the cage to call to bring the car up. he was on a 4 to 8 week lead time :(

i'm not a good person to get advice from for automatics. hopefully others can provide insight/rationale.

i personally think only you can answer this because you know what's more important to you and how to weigh out both situations. for starters though, you need to calculate out the mph you are trying to hit in the quarter and what RPM you want that at to determine your optimal gear. then also decide what RPM you want to cruise with at what MPH. Then it's a compromise between the two. How much compromise is up to you. I just don't personally believe the average person would swap third members based on what they feel like they are going to do on any given day.

i thought 180 was defined as the temp at which a thermostat just starts to open and it takes around 15-20 degrees more for it to fully open. so i would think you should only be concerned if i creeps beyond 200.

i'm not a good person to get advice from for automatics. hopefully others can provide insight/rationale.

i don't recall you saying anything about what housing you plan to get or what you have, but i don't believe the 35's work with the small bearing ford housing. double check. also, the concept of two third members with two different gears doesn't make a lot of sense to me if you have an overdrive (and especially with a 370 type gear). too much work/money.

28? looks like a 35 spline truetrac is $200 more than the 31 spline truetrac? i'm probably just not understanding something.

center section: price difference is anywhere from $35 cheaper to $310 more (i believe you get a lot better differential). http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/strange-pro-ford-9-n-case-posi-unit-std-gear-yoke.html/ 31 spline axle package: $421 http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/ford-mopar-or-chevy-alloy-axles-ret-plts-brgs-1-2-stud-kit.html/ 35 spline axle package: $421 http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/35-spl-alloy-axles-retainer-plates-bearings-1-2-stud-kit.html/ i think it seems crazy not to go 35 if building all new (unless you don't want a few extra pounds of weight). here is a 35 spline

just curious, but what cylinder head are you running? 36 seems like it may be on the high side (or is this some open chamber or stock cylinder head motor?)

have you tried adjusting the EFI settings? it would be sad to think that EFI system doesn't have the knobs available to adjust to a cam like that.

i think i have a similar cam (236/244, 614 lift) with 1.7 rockers (makes the cam look a little bigger as compared to 1.6's) in a 418w with a Vic Jr single plane manifold (i don't know where yours is degree at though....). also have a tko600 and 4.11 gear. on mine i had to make sure i had the initial timing pretty high (around 20). it would want to surge/buck at cruise if under around 1500 rpm. the throttle down low was a little unresponsive as well. it was just way too lean down at that 1500 rpm range and lower requiring some adjustments to the carb (primarily idle jet/low speed bleed) to richen it up just enough for that to all stop. Mine is a carb (950HP) and I don't really know FI, to know how they need to be compensated. Mine is about 11 inches of vacuum at idle.

have you priced out the difference between going with a 31 spline setup and a 35 spline setup? if you have to buy all the parts, i think you may find the cost difference is very small (comparing prices at strange as an example).

here is just a little item of possible interest to some. i've been paying close attention to my current set of plugs and thought it would be interesting to cut open some of the old ones i had saved. (i can't really see deep down into the plugs). i just put them in the drill press, run it and use my cutoff disk to cut the thread/ground strap section off. only takes about 20 seconds. i don't know really what state those old plugs had been exposed to just before pulling them (e.g. had it been sitting and idling, was it just after a long cruise, was it the dragstrip or shortly after a WOT pull, etc). i can say the orangish tint one was after a trip to the dragstrip where i had added some leaded fuel. but that's not the point. i typically run the 3924's and had tried the different heat range with the 3923's for a short term. what i noticed was there is a difference in the length on the ceramic of the 3923's. the tip where the wire connects to was also different color. i don't know if autolite went through some sort of revision on the 3923's at some point or are there different sources of autolite's?

bends and flares easy like aluminum. i just don't like the copper tint....

a few more pieces. a visual of 2.5", 3.0" and 3.5" tube.

i've made my own. it's not something i like doing. i don't believe you will save cash making something already available (assuming what's available is what meets your requirements and don't need rework). the tube bender/flaring tools will likely be different for the brakes on the rear axle as compared to the fuel lines. so you'll probably need tools for each.

no, i'm refering to clevis or chain link style torque bars. the kind that when power is applied it's like hitting a hammer on a nail (if the clevis is sloppy loose).

i have them along with a torque rod with the same type of bushing. i don't really think about it much or it doesn't bother me (i only drive the car in the range of 1500 to 2500 miles per year). I'm also running an unsprung clutch disc. in my opinion, what's really annoying or noticeable is metal banging/hitting metal.

I used a Rigid. part number 36132

i bent my own (and a return).

and it was the first show of the year (been to several cruise-ins). great day. almost had a blue 69 mach mach on the other side but he missed parking next to me by one spot...

not much happening here. I've been playing around with the carb on the mustang. trying to prove to myself i can tune a carb (i ordered an 1100 CFM dominator for the falcon and wanted to make sure i gained some knowledge on this car which is pretty tame) and in addition see if any improvements could be made. i changed out the hardline for PTFE hose that has allowed me to make tuning changes in just a few minutes (it took 7 minutes to make a jet and PVCR change after the mod). I also tapped all of the idle and T-slot feeds at once in the event i needed to add a restrictor. I've also been working on the exhaust for the falcon. I'm about ready to tear the car down and take it to the shop for a full chromo cage. I couldn't make an x-pipe work, so it will be a small flex H. These are 3.5" 304SS pipes. Material is from Stainless Works. I have not been impressed with the bends or the tubing. I had used SPD for the header tubing and it was a lot better. I don't know if the mandrel bends in 3.5" tubing from SPD would have been better or not. I made the tubes exit at slight turndowns. I really don't want to see this exhaust from the outside.

i built a tank for dragstrip rules, and fortunately it doesn't appear to ever have gotten fluid in it. i do as stangnet33 discusses and that could be why.