BuckeyeDemon

is this for the high back bucket? if so, i think i took detailed pics of where are the wires went.

you can't use that type of temperature sensor on "shiny" metal. it will read much lower than reality. they are getting false low readings on those coated headers. i'm not saying there isn't an improvement, just not what they are claiming.

i don't believe headers need to be equal length. by not being equal length, it simply means the reflected waves will happen at different times. that means each cylinder sees the benefit at different RPMs (and also the bad at different RPMs). as an example, the power generated in cylinder 6 may get a positive bump at 2200 and 4400 rpm, while cylinder 7 gets the positive bump at 2300 and 4600 rpm. with equal lengths and equal cylinder firings (which isn't possible on a V8 without crossing a cylinder from one bank to the other), there would be bigger peaks (and likewise bigger valley's) over the rpm range. therefore with a fully equal length balanced setup, people could probably advertise higher peak power gains. however if they averaged it over an RPM range and compared to an unequal length, there probably wouldn't be an average difference (this assumes the lengths aren't so different that the peaks occur at much different RPM bands). however, having equal lengths may make "tuning" easier if every cylinder acts the same across the rpm band.

where did you get this info or how did you make this measurement? I have ceramic coated headers and i'm measure 350 to 425F at idle (dependent on location to the fan....).

just as a note for anyone doing this in the future... i used the butyl style. i then also used urethane in the corners and possibly a few more spots (to simply to hold the glass in more permanent position). i was concerned with the butyl allowing the glass to sink with the heat from the sun as it stays soft. the urethane hardens up a lot. one thing i hate with the butyl is the fact that it does stay soft and sticky. so bugs, dirt, etc can get stuck in the butyl

to me, gas mileage is highly dependent on the environment and the way a person drives (driving style, type of roads, duration, climate) which is probably the reason numbers vary so much on the internet. also, it's hard to say how a lot of people check their mileage too (did they have their car warmed up, jump on the highway, drive for a tank at a good speed, then check? or do they drive short durations, on roads with lots of stop signs with every stop includes a drag launch?). I seem to drive more conservatively when I actively monitor mileage on my truck, it's almost like a game. I believe the 1995 Mustang Cobra R (351W, 5 speed) was rated at 12 to 20 (15 average). So if you were rating your car in the same way as they do on production cars, then it would seem you are doing unbelievably good. In my opinion, if your plugs look good after a normal drive, then likely you are close enough, changes won't make much of a noticeable change in mileage.

really nice job.

thank you. tig is so nice, with the ability to control the amount of material added, fusing, no spatter, etc. i've come to the point where i just avoid using the mig 90% of the time.

i'm assuming you're referring to the cage, it was built by Jim Unger located in Dayton Ohio. He was very cooperative during that effort.

donor roof is on the car now.

thank you. the dash is similar, but the dash trim on a 65 futura (when chromed and detailed properly) looks much nicer as compared to a 65 mustang.

Just post a link to the thread at the forum you are posting on. Hopefully you are able to follow through with your plan. To many cool projects hibernate...

research to find out if that particular rim is hub centric or lug centric. if it's lug centric it shouldn't need any adapter rings and just make sure they balance it by the lugs (which I've found is very difficult to convince a lot of tire shops to do it that way....).

http://mustangsandmore.com/pages/Boss_and_Mach_Info.html " The ribs on a shaker scoop are painted argent. Some folks paint the shaker semi-gloss black then sand the ribs clean, but that's not accepted by MCA judging if that's a concern. " https://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php?topic=4839.0 http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=938.0 http://www.boss302.com/smf/index.php?topic=55230.0

the fins were painted.

I used ATI PN#: 917511AK. it had the 3-bolt pattern pulley, 3" offset, 2pm timing marks (A) and was 0 balance. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-917511ak

i recall using part of the original hardware with a new set of handles due to something similar.

it seems there are a few flavors/differences in water pumps/timing covers, etc resulting in some fasteners not working out. if a few fasteners don't work, then you can always measure and purchase something different (length, thread size, etc) from ARP.

i don't know how the automatics fit in these cars, but if you change your engine angle (e.g. drop the tailshaft to allow a larger trans to clear a tunnel), then that can create additional issues because it can cause the front side of the air cleaner to point even higher towards the sky. the vic jr does not have any built in angle to compensate for the factory engine angle. so it causes the front side to point higher as well. there are other games that can be played to fit an air cleaner if needed (angle mill carb flange, modify air cleaner base for a little added angle, drop engine mounts, etc). all likely have associated issues as well...

you can fit a small oval air cleaner if you cut the hood. or you can run a drop base 14" air cleaner and not have to cut the hood (i'm guessing you don't have a choke).

trying a new system... exhaust is complete. it's hidden pretty well. clutch slave and emergency brake cantilever setup.

Photobuckets been hacked or if the email is real, then they want $300 per year. I won't pay, so all is likely lost....

seems like some good insurance to have another quart or two and some baffling in the pan when spending a little longer at higher RPM running down the track (where the oil gets pumped up to the top) or launching hard (where the oil will try to rush towards the back).

there is no problem with the pump. it just has the radiators outlet on the lower passenger side. the 70 radiators have the outlet on the lower drivers side. so if you went with the 70 and up type radiators that had opposite side inlet/outlet or some other aftermarket radiator, then you would want the corresponding pump. I believe it's generally preferred to have inlet and outlet on opposite sides (unless it's a double pass). This does not imply the 69 setup doesn't work.