BuckeyeDemon

the "aftermarket" companies are likely trying to use as many "off the shelf (OTS)" pieces to build their clutches as possible while trying to offer packages that may not be readily available. as an example, if a particular OTS piece (like the fingers) from LUK is adequate for the particular clutch, then it's likely cheaper to purchase that piece (high volume), than it is to make and design their own. as the demand on the clutch changes, they likely mix and match parts to fit the need for the application and maybe offer something not readily available. in some instances, maybe there isn't a particular piece of the clutch/pressure plate available that meets there design needs and requires them to design their own piece. my Mccleod and Ram both use clutch materials from Miba…. most companies don't redesign every piece part for a total product package they sell. i'm an engineer at a company who designs/manufacturers transmitters. we don't design every integrated circuit from scratch. only when something isn't available or there isn't a way to do that, do we invest in designing a new piece. your new Centerforce has Luk parts just like my Centerforce I posted pics of....what a surprise....

I can't remember if those are small slotted holes, but if not, consider putting in a rivut nut (or equivalent) and a matching fastener.

definitely consider going with something like Centerforce DF. It in general has pretty good reviews.... ...and in case someone can't see the photos, this Centerforce DF has Luk stamped all over it.... I'm still trying to understand what about a clutch can make it considered cheap? materials? design? heat treat? balance?

just throwing out some thoughts. are all of Luk's clutches cheap, or just they ones they sell branded under their own name? what about the clutch makes it to be considered cheap?

I personally think it's in the noise. if you look at comp's dual pattern cams, they don't specify two different springs (and I don't have two different springs in mine with lobes that have two different lifts). I guess if you really wanted you could shim up the valve with the less lift.

sometimes the spring catalog will group associated retainers with the valve springs. spring cup/locators are needed for aluminum heads so they don't eat up the soft aluminum. iron general can take it. locators/cups are also needed in if you use a smaller diameter spring than the spring pocket in the head was designed for. you should also consider your valve length when choosing a spring. it could impact your selection of a retainer or the spring.

the gray/silver was raw metal after blasting/sanding. the flat black was two coats of reduced DP90LF Epoxy Primer the yellow stuff is a lightweight body filler (Rage) epoxy is a sealer so it's about 1 mil per coat. a typical primer/surfacer is about 1.5 to 2 mil per coat. there are heavy build primers available. when imperfections are deep (say 20 mils), it can take a lot of coats of primer (which is expensive) to fill those imperfections. I've seen countless cars at shows where you can see they likely blasted the parts and then painted and they show all of the damage left by the rust and just doesn't look good to me.

the expansion volume with the tanks on the sides IS NOWHERE near the volume of a top mounted tank. sure you can have a very small amount at the very top on both sides and if you lower the fluid level, you then give up cooling fins (and there isn't much volume in those cooling tubes). ...and any response or clarification with regards to antifreeze and the dragstrip? I want to be sure I understand the rules as I have never had an issue at the four tracks I've been too (nor do they state a rule on the webpages) and I have never found anything in the NHRA general rules and regulations with regards to coolant.

I have a stockish style radiator (meaning tanks are at the top and bottom) and run the coolant level to just above the coolant tubes. So it has the entire top tank for expansion. So far, under my operating conditions, I have never had any fluid in my overflow. So consider adjusting your coolant level? Of course, if you are using a crossflow radiator with the tanks on the side, you really wouldn't have this benefit and a reservoir would be needed.

are you saying straight water is prohibited at the track or the use of antifreeze is prohibited at the track (specifically the dragstrip)?

It's metal, so it should be no different than anything else. clean the metal in the weld area (e.g. remove plating) and weld.

thank you. I still appreciate the comments.

I add water so it just covers the cores which is the area of the radiator that should be transferring the heat out. that basically gives the whole top tank area room for expansion.

when I stage the car I have the horn select switch to set to control the line lock/two step when I push the rimblow. When I stage the car, I set the line lock switch to the position, such that when I activate the rim blow and the horn select switch is set to control the line lock/two step position, then it will send a signal to the MSD box that has a two step rev limiter. So basically, i'm activating the line lock solenoid simultaneously (but it's not doing anything since I didn't put any pressure in the brakes). however, it will also set the rev limiter to my two step limit (e.g. 5000 RPM instead of the normal 6500 when the two step input is active). Doing this allows my to have the throttle wide open, prior to launch. This results in FULL air flow through the motor (e.g. high speed airflow through the manifold which should result in normal operation of a carb with the boosters). This alleviates issues with a carb having to rely on the accelerator pump circuit and manifold/air flow issues that can occur and low rpm. If you aren't drag racing then there is no need for a two step or really a line lock.

the line lock is for holding the car stopped while doing burnouts in the box at the dragstrip. it holds the pressure in the front brakes when activated (after pumping the brakes). the residual valve has nothing to do with the line lock. I installed it simply because it's easier to plan and install during the build than have to do rework IF it was needed. the increase in sheen on the hood from the wax wasn't because the paint was getting glossier. it was from the film left by the wax. wipe some oil on something dull and it will give the similar appearance. waxing/polishing is like buffing (with ultra/ultra fine compound and can led to increased gloss. I've just been using the simple spray wax liquid that I wipe on and off quickly. the hood still looks the same. maybe if I applied the mothers carnuba wax repeatedly and let it dry before removing it would look different. I don't know.

holy cow! that looks like a lot of work. even I will find it useful given I often have to go back to find a detail here or there. thank you. I will try to edit the first post and paste it there (if it won't throw off page numbers).

tunnel mods depend on the trans chosen and what you want for a driveline setup. dimensionally the two transmissions are different so it won't be a straight swap.

does the modern driveline trans come with the modified case/covers to roved additional clearance? that may influence your decision if it does.

Thank you.

I have all parts now for engine that I will get except for pistons, pushrods, headgaskets and rod/main bearings. Plan to take it to shop in November for machining. ….and in process of getting out scaring, pitting, etc from the undercarriage....

it's like taper in an intake manifold. keeps the speed up closest to the port, reduces restriction as it gets farther from the valve, helps reduce reversion, could be easier to build....

I just use axle straps around the rear axle housing and around the lower control arms. they don't scratch anything or bend up the frame rails.

a 195 degree thermostat starts to open at 195 and takes a lot more temperature to open up fully. consider changing to a 180 degree first.

at this point, forums are pretty much dying or already dead. probably don't even need to have different sections anymore...

I generally don't media blast surface panels, but I have several times, especially the underside. it takes me what seems like FOREVER, simply due to being conservative by holding the gun pretty far back. it takes forever, because the beam isn't focused when holding it that far back, and getting that rust pit clean comes down to probability of hitting it with the media. but it doesn't warp. on easy to access places, I just work the rust pits with acid and a wire brush or really sharp piece of tungsten.