BuckeyeDemon

yes

When converting hard line to AN fitting, I use a Rigid brand 37 degree flaring tool and an aluminum AN tube nut and sleeve. There was an isolated case where i did use an aluminum compression due to space, but that wasn't desired.

cunifer is as soft as aluminum. so aluminum adapters work.

have you ever tried bending 1/2 steel tubing? remember you'll have the entire feed line and return line to make.

FYI, I have the higher flow walbro and can hear a little whine in the car. I have dynamat applied to the top of fuel tank and a huge type of insulation under the trunk mat. Fold down car. I've heard some of the aeromotive pumps are a little quieter to a comparable walbro.

Yes

that would be great. thanks

(my personal opinions), I'm an electrical engineer, so i equate other systems to electronics (a lot of synergy in the world). fuel lines are like resistors. so much resistance per foot. solid tube has some resistance, braided hose may have more resistance per foot (in many cases it's corrugated inside), 90 degree sharp bends will have more resistance then slow bends, etc. So let's say you have 8' of 1/2" line at 1 ohm per foot, and the small hose and fitting at the start is 4 ohms per foot (total of 6"), then your total line impedance/resistance would be something like 10 ohms, where the long 1/2" ends up dictating the total resistance of the system. That resistance results in a pressure loss from pump to the end. in a carb engine with a high pressure capable EFI pump, the return line is more important. simply because, you could have a little excess drop in the feed line and still be able to achieve the 5-7 psi at the carb (too much drop and you just won't be able to deliver the power (e.g. fuel volume) to the carb). The return path resistance must be less than 5 psi or your bypass regulator won't do much good. An EFI setup will be the opposite. You can't have much drop to the regulator/injector but could have more in the return. again, just my opinions.

what's the ID of the rubber hose for the fuel pump (or even better, what's the ID of the pump)?

can you post photos of both of them side by side?

how do you know your original isn't faded and worn?

media blast

Not sure I follow. Are you talking about the two sliding shafts?

i'm using an in tank pump from tanks inc as mentioned and linked in posts 1231 and 1239. it has the rollover vent in it.

as previously mentioned, i'm using the port on the tanks module. i have the optional rollover valve (it's just a check valve that close with gravity). below is that module. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/mode=prod/prd84.htm my 65 falcon came from the factory with a vent tube. there was a nipple on the top side of the tank and connects to a tube. it did not have the vent connected to the top of the filler neck.

current thought is a pump gas 445ci (4.155x4.100). 13:1, 77219 victors opened up to about 290cc, 2.15 or possibly 2.18 valve, SR at about 260/270 w/ around 700 lift. a little bit more than a port matched SV. 950-1000 carb. 2" header. basically would like to hit 10.0 @ 135 and open to getting into the 9's. car will get 10 pt 4130 cage with front strut bars. trying to avoid a power adder. not really into the street outlaw show. too much drama.

are you okay? sad to see you possibly let it go.

fuel supply --> carb --> bypass regulator --> return

ideas...

i have mine at 3/4 and no problems. i'm assuming yours are noisy because you barely have any preload?

...and i have the optional rollover valve installed in the tanks module.

sorry, don't have a pic available. it was this article that gave me the idea of using a valve like that and where to take the end of the tube. https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2008/04/InTankFuelPumpPart2/index2.php

I guess anything's possible. I'm not quite sure how though. This is the valve i was referring to: http://www.newton-equipment.com/In-Line%20Tank%20Vent%20Valves%20Feb%20TPV%20Series.pdf