BoulevardofRustedDreams

I may just roll the dice and hope for the best. Luckily they aren’t terrible so I may be okay to use the 67-68 to patch.

Have you tried either of these?

Who makes toe pans for a 69-70 car? Everything I keep finding shows 65-68 or “may” fit 69-70?

Unfortunately living where i do about any parts car is going to be just as bad off and need much of the same work not to mention extremely rare. I’m waiting to call our metals place Monday, I’m going to try and get some square tubing to build a jig for the whole car. If I do this way I’m thinking torque boxes/toe boards/floor supports first, then full floor, and then front frame rails.

If anyone saw my initial post I have a very rusty 1970 fastback I’m working on. I’ve got the car stripped down currently to the body and rear suspension/axle. Besides that everything is removed and I’ve been starting to get measurements and order parts. I’m not worried about being able to do the work but it’s much more than any work i have previously done all at once on a single car. I want to get the car to where I can put the new front steering and suspension on and get her rolling. I am replacing so much of the car though that I am unsure what the best order would be to remove/replace: what I’ve got or will be ordering soon consists of the following: transition pan(I am going to staggered shocks and assume I don’t need the pan with mounts if I’m ordering the staggered shock body mounts?), rear seat pans, full floor pans, (rear frame rails are somehow actually solid!), wheel tubs(looking at the wider ones that still allow rear seat usage), toe pans, complete cowl assembly, subframe connectors(weld in but haven’t decided which yet as i see some go through the floor), one piece seat riser, two piece torque boxes, radiator core with crossmember, floor supports, and front frame rail/inner fender/shocktower assemblies. Basically everything ahead of the firewall is crap. My inner kick panels are good, firewall is good minus toe area, inner/outer rockers are good. All the interior/sail panels are good. I’ll have more to do like trunk floor/quarters etc, but right now i need to get a solid base. Also what’s the best source for measurements for all the panels? I’m marking numerous ones down from my car but I’d like something to compare all the dimensions to. So for you experienced folks who’ve had to do large sheet metal replacement on these cars what order would you recommend i remove the panels and then reassemble? As soon as i have all the panels mentioned above we’re going to roll it in the shop and start stripping, sandblasting, and painting. My thoughts are remove front frame rails and everything forward first, after torque boxes are removed. Then cowl. Then remove the floor supports and toe panels. Not sure on the best reassembly order or how practical that is. Then I was gonna move on to floors, transition pan, etc.

If you run autocross, SCCA, or similar, do you run manual or power steering. Or if starting from scratch what would you choose? I’ve never ran power steering before but my car was originally factory equipped for it, though it’s been removed. I’ve always been fine with manual on all my previous cars but some people have said power is much more a necessity with the amount of steering on the track. I’m a drag racing guy but my 70 will be set up for road racing so I’m not sure which course to take.

I look at it this way. I have plenty of time and it ain’t going anywhere. Plus if I don’t save the car it may end up at the crusher and be one more piece of history we never get back. And making a semi-track car out of it, originality doesn’t mean a thing. I haven’t really saw anything availability wise that worries me. It’s mind blowing what is available now versus when I had my 66 in high school 15 years ago.

Btw, what is the most accurate source for all the measurements for a 70?

I’ve been trying to find some options around here for dipping actually. That’s the downside to East Tennessee. There is no such thing as rust free around here.

So I got this from one of my best friends for $600. He got the car to rob the front discs off of and needed it gone from his shop. It’s nothing special just an H code sportsroof but it’s also a model I’ve wanted for a long time. I’ve had a 66, 71, and 69 coupes in the past. I’ve never tackled one this rough. Usually my past cars were nothing beyond a small frame rail patch or floor pans. I’m even upgrading to a new and better welder for this project. With doing the work myself I figure aside from my physical time I’m better off spending $3500 on sheet metal on my $600 car than buying a $7000 car and still spending a grand or so repairing rust. So as it sets my plans are to first order the new front clip assemblies that have the frame/apron/shocktower as a complete unit. I’m going to be adding the shock tower reinforcements from Opentracker as well when doing this. Also replacing the cowling/floor reinforcements and torque boxes. What is the advantage/disadvantage of the one piece vs two piece torque box? I’m going to order full length floor pans/subframe connectors too. Once I have that portion done then I’m going to do the Shelby drop and do full open tracker road race suspension up front with manual steering. Once it’s a roller then I plan to work my way back and when that’s complete fully cage the car from taillight panel to radiator core. My end goal is to build the car up to pay homage to the 69-70 SCCA TransAm cars but with a few comforts like AC/stereo and retain a rear seat for family cruising and occasional daily driver duty while still capable of holding its own on a track. Having viewed the pics, I’m open to encouragement lol. I’m far from wealthy so I’m going to try to get started ordering some replacement sheet metal every other paycheck. Wife’s car will be paid off soon and free up some more funds. I’m gonna try to bite the bullet on the front clip parts first since they’re the most expensive.