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70Mach1rb

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About 70Mach1rb

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  1. HI. I was curious on my 70 build if anyone has had trouble buying or finding columns for 1970 mustangs. And if so what your result was. Question would be. Do a GM after market column and then go to the trouble of rewiring it to ford, adding a Ford Adaptor, possibly problems mounting to a ford gear box? Also. The issue of the steering in the 69 and 70 I've researched being so poor compared to new tech that has come out since. Rack-n-Pinion? Anyone put this upgrade on and liked it? Or would you suggest building it the way it was from factory. Either example is going to have me jumping through loops of Cash. As I need to find a steering wheel on down to the tie rods. I"m at a loss as to go all in with RnP system or just try to find what i need to go back stock steering with power. Thank you in advance. Please share. God Speed. Rick
  2. Does today count or am I too late. Purchased $3500 dollars worth of parts for my 70 mach 1 restoration. Seems I spend money almost every day now. The hard part is done so just needs $15k in parts to make it roar down the road.
  3. Thank you. The engine block is 2V heads and 2bbl set up. yet going to a 4bbl intake from Edelbrock and just leaving the 2v heads to see what they do. I have a 4V set of heads and the 4v intake for it. So guess the engine is whatever I want it to be at this point. Not sure what heat operated valve you would be talking about. I don't have anything right now on the intake. I will want performance parts probably like msd ignition, coil, etc... so probably need to go with a more expensive distributer? Appreciate the reply and advice.
  4. Nice. I need to get a distributor for my 351 but not sure what to get. What type did you get for your engine here? Did you build this? What size? How many hp? Rick
  5. oh. Nice pics of your project. I need to start taking some of my own. I like the one of the dash. It shows me how many parts I need that I don't have for the cockpit! I wonder where I would get all those. Some one mentioned having a donar car. I doubt I could ever find one that was cheap enough to buy for just parts. Then you would be stuck with all old parts. Some you can restore just with blasting and new paint I guess. Which is what I would need, like dash brackets that hold things together. On the lower cowl. Does my 70 need to look like yours does? Our cars are both 70 m codes right?
  6. My 70 Mach 1 I just bought is, was an M code car which of course came with 4V heads and a 4 barrel intake. The engine I have that came with it is a 351 Cleveland with a 2v head set up and an Edelbrock Performer Intake designed to run with and work with 2V Heads. Since I believe the cam is just one size over the OEM stock cam, I'm not sure how much added performance the 2V set up will gain from this intake. Even though I have heard some summit reviews saying it has really boosted their hp from a 2 barrel intake and carb now they have a small 4 bbl and the much larger intake. So yes that would make sense that there would be an improvement. How much is the $2 dollar question? Would it be shameful to drive a factory rated 300 hp car that cannot make 300 hp? LOL I'm certain with the right cam and heads and intake you could just about pick what hp you wanted. AS long as you had a big block! Trouble is I need to know whether or not to sell this powder-coated Performer Intake and rebuilt 2v Cleveland heads on eBay and go with the 4v original, Or just drive the 2v and hold the heads and intake for later in case I have a buyer that wants to give me more than the thing is worth some time down the road. :) Which is why I ask about this. I have a set of 4V heads along with a stock 4bbl intake. With that set up I'm sure to make 300 hp. AS it was rated that from the factory @5400 rpm. I know what one system will do as far as high-end torque. I don't know what the 2v system will do and how if any better on the low end. Anyone out there with a set up such as this one? Any advice? What would you do if it were your mess? Cordially, Rick
  7. Now this is a nice shop to have such a car in. A car stand on a floor lift. Wow. Never in my life seen that before. If it works! I just have a rotisserie. But thank god I have it. I'm too old to weld and work upside down and backward!
  8. HI. Wow, you've got lots of great parts. Mine needed a cowl as I welded up 3 dozen pinholes! Not sure I could have afforded these OEM parts you have! I'm on a fixed income though. Do you have a dash for sale? How much for the dash? With A/C cutouts? So you had bought an original dash with a/c cutouts? I doubt I could afford it. Unless it was used. Nice job on the car so far. I'm searching for the entire car piece by piece! Wait, I have the body! Just need 2500 more small parts. LOL
  9. A great question that many come to ask. In my opinion as a retired mechanic, you should always use cork if you need a seal. Plus silicone sealant. In many instances. The sealant helps hold gaskets in place. Cork works, it has been working for over 100 years. As far intakes it depends on the depth gap you are going to close. Bigger gaps require more material to make the seal. The end gaskets can be omitted entirely if there is no more than a 1/8 gap. In that case, you could get by with a good rtv sealant. If your gap is larger say 3/16 or more after torquing intake bolts I would indeed use the rubber seal provided. Most of us are not qualified engineers. There should never be much of a problem with intakes and getting them to seal. If there's a big gap put a seal there. Add sealant. If not a large gap, you can use a gasket making sealer. But everyone will tell you something different. Also that if you use a rubber seal do not use sealant. Many will still add a glob at the corners. And that makes some sense in that leaks are generally coming from the corners. I normally see most people using what the parts come with. And it just makes sense not to have to go to the store again. And no, you don't always need a sealant. But if it doesn't hurt anything it can actually be a life saver.
  10. Yep. I hate myself for selling it. Well hopefully I can something that won't need vacuum metalizing. It cannot be cheap. Thank you.
  11. Hi. New here so not sure where or how this reply will show up. Guess it will be here somewhere. I just bought a shell of a 70 Mach 1. Marti report shows it had a 4V Cleveland, 4 speed, and no fold-down rear seat. I want to put a Tremec 5 speed in it for the O-drive. But not sure. Would it be better to keep it original as possible? Or restomod? Any advice? Today I did some bodywork. Have been doing bodywork of late. Had to heat shrink 5 areas, 3 on top of car. I've seen tri-fives that were found in open fields in better shape then this Mach 1 body. Last week I finished media blasting the body with 40/70 crushed glass. Seems someone had primed it 5 years ago and it was rusted under the primer! Anyway sealed it after getting all the rust off. emulsified the rust areas I could not reach. I"m needing to order a distributor, a thermo housing and thermostat, and put my harmonic balancer on. The engine is freshly rebult. But has 2v heads. I bought the eldlebrock intake as a means to give it some extra hp's. Not sure how much it will give it. But I have a 4v intake I can put on her, and 4v heads that need rebuilt. That way I would have a decent 4v engine as its listed in the marti report. M code. Just not the original. Anyone reading this. Would you sell the Edelbrock intake and put the factory intake on? With the 4 v heads? After all it is the best way to line up the shaker hood it shows it had. Otherwise, I've heard different intake could cause the hood scoop assembly to set too high. I need to call Edelbrock and find out just how much hp you can get out of a 2V head system with their special 2V Cleveland intake. Does anyone know? I guess the question would be. Go original with a shaker hood, or use what I already have available. Thanks for stopping by.
  12. Thanks for replies. I appreciate the help. I've researched dozens of issues and parts I will be needing for this car. It is basically a shell at the time with a suspension. Needs everything, including two fenders, a driver door and a hood. The marti report below shows the options it came with. I'm just amazed at the cost of used worn out parts. Why would anyone want to restore a car with used worn out parts that look nasty? I don't get it. And why would they ever pay 8 times too much for that part! I was going to get a bezel of course but I figured it could be refurbished with new gauges and wood grain? Sure it was painted black at the factory. So I guess painting is okay. The problem is that these parts were dipped in chrome entirely to get the chrome rings around the openings. So that poses a problem in trying to refurbish one. Who has a chrome bath at home? Not sure that you could ever redo one of these to make it look brand new. And I guess they no longer make them. hmmmm. Lots of issue restoring a car with only some after market parts. I need the back seat backing piece. Someone wanted $200 bucks on eBay for a rusted one. C'mon! No one sees this part even! Oh well, time to stop complaining and start thinking out loud. Laugh a little and move forward. Thanks again for your help of course. Cordially, Rick Bell added two picks of before and after my last restoration. Took me two years!
  13. Hi. I'm new so I'm researching Mach 1's and the type of bezels they came with. Or were optioned for. I've seen bezels that say Mach 1 on back, but only on the wood grain bezel. (instrument cluster panel) Yet I find the basic black bezel being sold on eBay and they are listed as mach 1, grande, boss, etc... Question is... since I have a 70 mach 1 with no dash. I'm trying to collect the right parts to build this car from just a shell. OMG the parts are extremely high. I guess it is due to the parts being made for only two years? If anyone has any information they can add here in a reply to bezels, it would probably be more than helpful. I did purchase a basic black bezel and gauges for $55 dollars on eBay But the part does not say mach 1. Nor does it have the same number as the Mach 1 bezel I saw on youtube. Here is my part number: DOZF-10841-A. Which looks like the 70 bezel in the image. Cordially, Rick Bell ps the basic looking bezel image (2 Bezels) shows 69 and 70 difference. But nowhere does it say these two are also Mach 1. The wood grain I've seen on youtube shows Mach 1 embossed on the back with a different number than the one above.
  14. The factory carbs I believe did not use any plate. Mounted direct. If you use a different carb you would need to mount a plate I believe. Just things I picked up since I bought a 70 mach 1.
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