Mystang

My car wouldn't be for you. It's original 302 has been enhanced by Edelbrock  and I to about 320 HP. And T-5 trans. replaced the fact. 3 speed. Rubie red paint and drivability upgrades put it firmly in the "Mod" category.
     Good luck in the search. There are still a fair no. of unmolested 'original' cars rolling around out there. My car was base in Wimbeldon white, and as such was not highly sought after.
  I decided it was a good canvas to build the car I wished Ford had made. I would never have done this to a Boss, Bullitt, or Shelby. Then again I couldn't justify driving one of those to the golf course, Tasty Freeze, or local cruse-in.  
   I enjoyed building it nearly as much as I enjoy driving it and the journey, is the destination.

My car wouldn't be for you. It's original 302 has been enhanced by Edelbrock  and I to about 320 HP. And T-5 trans. replaced the fact. 3 speed. Rubie red paint and drivability upgrades put it firmly in the "Mod" category.
     Good luck in the search. There are still a fair no. of unmolested 'original' cars rolling around out there. My car was base in Wimbeldon white, and as such was not highly sought after.
  I decided it was a good canvas to build the car I wished Ford had made. I would never have done this to a Boss, Bullitt, or Shelby. Then again I couldn't justify driving one of those to the golf course, Tasty Freeze, or local cruse-in.  
   I enjoyed building it nearly as much as I enjoy driving it and the journey, is the destination.

Are you looking for a project, finished, original, or resto/mod? I am considering putting mine up.

MyStang, I had the same problem, I went with adjustable motor mounts to clear my Borgeson Box.    I moved my engine about an inch to the passenger side, and it cleared the steering box.  I am using shorty headers on a 351W/393 Stroker build.
I also have the flat tappet cam with roller rocker setup, seems to run great.

I did replace the unit with a Custom Autosound radio that has a ISO plug, so it basically just plugged in with no rewiring.  I got the model that doesn't have bluetooth but it has an aux cord witch I ran into the glove box so I can plug in my phone and leave it in there when I play Pandora. I can live without taking calls in the car. If I needed that option I would have payed another $100 and got the upgrade.
  It looks as close to stock as the retrosound and at this point I'm not going for 'original' look anyway.    It's funny how your goals change as your project progresses. 
   

I put a Dynacorn spoiler on my 69 convert and have 6.5 in. of clearance at the center/low point.  This is stock springs 302.
 The valance of the 69 and 70 are listed as different parts so the spoiler may not bolt right-up from one to the other.  

No there is no contact with the headers. 
 If you have or are worried about contact you could tether them to the shock tower.
 As for me, I positioned the hoses, torqueing them away from the exhaust before tightening the fittings

This dif. and gear set has been SOLD
 
Thanks Stangman69

Vic, I have the Holley Sniper EFI.  Cold or hot it can start hard unless I wait for the fuel pump to build pressure before turning the starter. I just turn on the key, listen for the pump to come on, then turn off. This lets me know I have full pressure and it's ready to start. This seems to improve my starting issues.
  Other than that, I love the improved reliability of the EFI. Also 'Ruby' doesn't fill my garage with gas smell like she used to.
                                           Karl

Vic, I have the Holley Sniper EFI.  Cold or hot it can start hard unless I wait for the fuel pump to build pressure before turning the starter. I just turn on the key, listen for the pump to come on, then turn off. This lets me know I have full pressure and it's ready to start. This seems to improve my starting issues.
  Other than that, I love the improved reliability of the EFI. Also 'Ruby' doesn't fill my garage with gas smell like she used to.
                                           Karl

I'm sorry I missed your post and question.  Any assembly lube should stay put for that length of time.
  But before you start the engine, you should prime it by turning the oil pump to circulate oil through the entire oil system. This can be achieved by removing the distributor and turning the oil pump with a relatively inexpensive tool like  Melling Engine Priming Tools PT11   you can buy at Summit for $20.  with it you can run the pump using a hand held drill, works great. This puts oil all the way up to the rockers, after filling all of the lubrication passages.  
   Also, you can check your oil pressure before start-up, either with an existing gauge or by replacing the oil pressure pick-up unit (on the block) with a testing gauge.

Usually it will be the pick-up. I've had the same thing happen to me a couple times over the years. The last time was on my 69 convert. Brand new dizzy, ran fine for a few months. Then it would start and run fine till it warmed-up under the hood (not over heated) and it would die and not start until it cooled off. 
   Now I keep a replacement dizzy in the garage. (Plug and play) I also have an extra coil, but I would start with the pick-up/distributor every time.