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Just been using what’s been avialable at my local auto parts store. VP racing fuels octanium. My thoughts too on the carb being a bit small.

I will give Torco a try. The radiator is not clogged. As far as trimming the pistons, i would rather replace than go down that road. If i decide to change them it will probably be 10-1, that way it will leave room for a fat head gasket if that doesn't help enough. its a holley 650 i believe. I traded my mechanic my edelbrock 600 for it.

I finally gave up on getting ahold of arias and called my machinist. He Told me arias is no more, and that the owner had passed. He said they were 1.33 domed piston with valve release. After our long conversation suggested to change the pistons out for 9 to 1. He said if I ran race gas the problem would go away, but that’s not practical. The car has always run hot even stock. I think I’ll check out race tech down the road, but will attemp the carb and vacuum advance suggestions you made. Thanks for all the input. If I had to do it over again I would have bought a crate motor. Thanks again

Yes it ran cooler longer with the new set up. I can tell when the the thermostat is opening and closing. I can watch the idiot light get up to 3 quarters and then drop back down. I have a gage but haven’t put it in yet. It goes in the consol where the ashtray would be, and the consol needs to be rebuilt. It’s fine sitting and idling for long periods of time. We checked it out with a inferred laser pointer. As it warms up the hard stops tend to kill the motor. So I will double check the float.

I misspoke about the pistons, and I don't know the shape. They are Arias #M596012. I tried but couldn't find it on there site. My paper work from my machinist say's 11.5. No Quench pads. I guess i should have been clearer. I changed out the old radiator for the new one it got better, but eventually it would still heat up. At the same time my mechanic changed to a 160 thermostat, not sure which one. i will check the float again and the vacuum advance. i will do this next week when i get my driveline back from being shortened.

yes the block was zeroed the pistons are not domed the cam is a comp cam #32-246-4 its a 24inch four core radiator not a crossflow with two 1500 cfm suckers. I also have a taurus sucker fan but it doesn't cover the full surface. Thats why I opted for the twin fans and shroud. the bore is 4.044 stock exhaust with flow masters headers coming soon it gets hot both in traffic and highway Temp gage is an idiot light and generally it will peg all the way over I have to assume the float is set right along with the timing. Im not a fine tune guy, i have a mechanic for that.

I’ll tell you what I know. 1. 64cc heads iron 2. What volume pistons? 3. Timing optimum yes 4. Pining only when lugging the motor when hot. 5. Pump gas with octane booster. 6. The correct Cleveland stat with skirt 7. Champion alluminum radiator with matching sucker fans and one pusher fan 8. Elevation about 50 ft 9. Portland Or mild climate 10. Water pump is a flow kooler The motor has about 300 miles on it. Everything is new motor, trans rearend, front end, steering gear.. you name it, it’s new. I went with the waterless coolant after watching Jay Leno’s garage. I have only previously only put 2000 miles on it in the last twenty years ( have had the car 40 years). I don’t intend to let it sit around anymore. I thought there would be less corrosion using the waterless product.

Well to start with I had bad miss information when I built my Cleveland. I relied on on an old Chilton manual for compression (my dumb ass mistake) . The book said it it was 11.495 when it was only 10 to1. I know custom cam is one way or the pistons. Id rather not do the pistons because there custom and not a standard bore (.4400) $1300. Does anyone know about using Cometic gaskets to lower compression.I read on one site that would only make a minimal difference. I've also read that a 351 C shouldn't be bored over .30 due to thin cylinder walls.I would like to get back to 10 to 1 or 9.5. The problem is in hot weather the engine gets to hot and whats to die at a stop. I'm running as large a radiator as i could stuff in in there with waterless coolant and twin sucker fans and one pusher. Also the timing is correct. Any input would be appreciated.

The tremec 5speed is in and works well! thanks guys..

Looks like the one from the 69' I already have. Thanks again guys, you saved me some money!

Thanks for all the input. Sorry for taking so long to get back. The car is a power brake car, and the pedals from the 69' are power too. I don't have an assembly for a manual trans, do i need to buy one? There quite expensive around $500 or more. and i don't want an after market product.

Im in the process of removing my fmx and upgrading to a tremec 5speed. I have a break and clutch pedal from a '69. will those attach to the old assembly if i remove the old break pedal?