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Casgar

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  1. Like
    Casgar reacted to potato in Radiator support replacement tips   
    When I did my 73, I used a 2x4 and a square to do what is known as a "story pole" in woodworking and construction.  I was able to hang my radiator off the 2x4, so I didn't even need to drain my coolant to do the job.
    Take off your fenders.  Then use the existing holes in the inner fenders to screw up and through a 2x4.  This helps brace the car in position when you start removing structural stuff so the car doesn't move around.  Without something to give it structure, the top of the inner fenders can be moved around several inches.
    Then, using a framing square, I marked the exact position of a bunch of holes and features in the radiator support in my 2x4.  This is so when you start putting the new one in, you have a dozen reference points.
    I used my old radiator support as a test piece to get my welder dialed in.  Its real easy to blow holes through sheet metal if its not something you do every day.  And dont worry too much about trying to make youtube pretty welds.  30 seconds with your grinder and a flapper wheel turns ugly welds into pretty ones.  I've seen folks use a harbor freight spot welder to do some of the job.  I dont think the jaws can reach around some of the inside curves to do the whole job.
     





  2. Thanks
    Casgar reacted to Brian Conway in Radiator support replacement tips   
    Those 'three bolt holes' are vacant on my car.  Brian

  3. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in Trans am fender flares   
    Ok, I don't think I can get better information than that. Thanks!
  4. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in Trans am fender flares   
    Ok, I don't think I can get better information than that. Thanks!
  5. Thanks
    Casgar reacted to Grabber70Mach in Trans am fender flares   
    @Casgar this may be something that you would be looking for:
    https://1970mustangvintageracer.shutterfly.com/737
    Another option is some preformed ones from here:
    https://www.umshop-store.com/
    I got some last winter but haven't done anything with them yet. 
  6. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from staffy in Tempted to go full restomod   
    If I had a real GT350, had no plans to ever sell it, and wanted it go be more compedative I would at most upgrade it with bolt-on stuff, or maybe, MAYBE, minor welding. Lowering the seat platform to be able to fit more comfortable, yes. Rising the transmission tunnel to fit a different transmission, maybe. Removing the shock towers and installing a different crossmember and suspension, BIG NO NO. Whatever you do the car will be worth less. Money aside, I think you should at least reflect on that it's really a rare piece of car history that you are trying to modify.
    If I had way more time, money and skills, and I REEEALY wanted a bad ass GT350 I would probably get a random shell and make into a GT350 clone.
    Something like this:
  7. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from RogerC in Tempted to go full restomod   
    If I had a real GT350, had no plans to ever sell it, and wanted it go be more compedative I would at most upgrade it with bolt-on stuff, or maybe, MAYBE, minor welding. Lowering the seat platform to be able to fit more comfortable, yes. Rising the transmission tunnel to fit a different transmission, maybe. Removing the shock towers and installing a different crossmember and suspension, BIG NO NO. Whatever you do the car will be worth less. Money aside, I think you should at least reflect on that it's really a rare piece of car history that you are trying to modify.
    If I had way more time, money and skills, and I REEEALY wanted a bad ass GT350 I would probably get a random shell and make into a GT350 clone.
    Something like this:
  8. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from RPM in Tempted to go full restomod   
    If I had a real GT350, had no plans to ever sell it, and wanted it go be more compedative I would at most upgrade it with bolt-on stuff, or maybe, MAYBE, minor welding. Lowering the seat platform to be able to fit more comfortable, yes. Rising the transmission tunnel to fit a different transmission, maybe. Removing the shock towers and installing a different crossmember and suspension, BIG NO NO. Whatever you do the car will be worth less. Money aside, I think you should at least reflect on that it's really a rare piece of car history that you are trying to modify.
    If I had way more time, money and skills, and I REEEALY wanted a bad ass GT350 I would probably get a random shell and make into a GT350 clone.
    Something like this:
  9. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in All electric   
    Yeah, I know. Its an awesome car! What I meant was that I'd personally prefer a hybrid that I could drive to the next city without having to recharge.
  10. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from newstang in Happy new year!   
    I don't have anything as good as the "Merry Christmas"-thread to share, but here's to a better year than the last one!
  11. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from lanky in Street or Track drop spindle   
    "The spindle steering arm is shorter to fit inside the wheel and 1" further outboard than stock.  We have designed and machined longer billet tie rod sleeves for factory based steering linkage with 11/16-18 RH/LH threads.  If using a Unisteer rack, we can supply longer inner tie rod ends."
    https://streetortrack.com/suspension/front-suspension/spindles/billet-big-spindles
    A bit too expensive for me, but if you really want a wide wheel and can save some I guess that it could fit a yearly budget for some of our cars. :)
  12. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from rwcstang in Street or Track drop spindle   
    I didn't find anything in the comments that suggested that, but the arm pickup point is dropped slightly which reduces bump steer by 50%. Guess we'll have to wait on more info from Shaun.
    From what I can see and understand the biggest pro is that you can run a wheel with more backspace since the upper ball joint is lower and clears the wheel, which would reduce scrub radius and also allow you to run a wider wheel. Another pro is also that you can run a lower stance without changing the steering geometry.
    A con would be if you run wheels with stock backspace since a drop spindle in that case would slightly increase the scrub radius.
  13. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from lanky in Street or Track drop spindle   
    So.....
    https://www.facebook.com/streetortrackllc/photos/a.10156361062095753/10157636460425753/?type=3&theater
    New drop spindle! Exited!
  14. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from mustangstofear in So Kamela and Joe...   
    Over here you get a voting card a couple of weeks beforehand where it says where you can go and vote (1 place). On voting day you go to the designated polling location, enter a booth and write down the party you're voting for, eighter on a pre-made one representing the biggest parties (usually 10-12 different ones I think), or on a blank one. You put the vote in an envelop and seal it, bring it to the counder with 2 people where they check your ID and voting card, marks you off in a ledger that you have voted, and put your vote in a box. Your name is only in the ledger of you predetermined voting location, which means you can't go and vote in a different location unless you have asked for it in advance. When the counting starts any citizen is free to supervise the couting for the whole duration. Every vote in counted by hand. The vote counters is randomly recruited from the citizens in that district. The rules surrounding the election and vote counting is the same in the whole country.
    Is your system really much different? Have this been a problem before? Because some things I can't really see happening over here, like personnel forefully removing observers, or keep adding votes after the polls are closed.
  15. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from TexasEd in Suspension options   
    I'm also very close to order suspension for both the front and back. I can share my experience.
    The main benefit for removing the shock towers is more room in the engine bay (duh) which would make you possible engine list longer, and easier if you want to build a turbo engine. Other than that there isn't really much difference in performance between a Mustang II-ish suspension setup and one that uses the stock pickup points, though everything is supposedly better than the stock suspension. That is if you want to trust the internet because I don't have any actual experience.
    Regarding the rear, the difference between a 4 link or a 3 link/torque arm as I understand it is that the 4 link is better in straight lines and worse in curves and the 3 link/torque arm is the opposite. Not to say that both can work decent in both areas. Here is some pretty good summaries of some regular types of suspensions for solid axles.
    Here in Sweden if I want to have the car road legal with suspension othern than the original setup I have to get it inspected during and after the actual build before I can get it approved and registered with the new suspension. The inspector that I've been talking to didn't really like my first suggestion of a 4 link because he said that the arms usually bind at the extremes where as a 3 link or torque arm is virtually bind free. He aslo said that a 4 link will want to steer the rear axle when the car goes through corners. If you turn to the left the rear axle also turns a slight to moderate amount to the left (or right, can't remember), which can make the car harder to handle. His suggestions was to try and keep the self steering in the rear to a minimum and to try and reduce scrub radius as much as possible in the front (that's another story). He has been working as an inspector for modified veicles since at least 2002.
  16. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in Crease in upper cowl. Anything to check before removing?   
    Would it be best to fix the frame when as much stuff as possible is removed from the car (floor, right shock tower, radiator support)?
    Also, is the X-6 in this from the bottom of the frame rail? If so I need to lift the front like 2", which doesn't make any sense. Or does "side rail" mean the outward flange on the top of the frame rail? If so then the drawing is somewhat missleading.
    Not having english as your first language is confusing sometimes.
  17. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from RPM in OK, this is freaky !   
    I'm from Sweden, and since Sweden seems to be one of the few odd ones in all of this I thought I should share this.
     
  18. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in OK, this is freaky !   
    I'm from Sweden, and since Sweden seems to be one of the few odd ones in all of this I thought I should share this.
     
  19. Like
    Casgar got a reaction from mwye0627 in new floors on 70 coupe ..need to know where to drill new hold for parking brake cable?   
    As exact as I can measure on my -69 Fastback with no floor. Also in metric millimeters (+/- 1 mm), just because. :)
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