Casgar

I have watched a couple of their videos and found them interesting. Just be aware that there is some strong indications of scam going on too, which, at least for me, undermines the credability of his platform. One example; charging $3 000 for courses on how to build a profitable business when his one and only company has been in the red from the start, and at the same time asking $250 000/month to keep it running. Edit; I haven't watched the documentary though, so can't comment on that.

I'm also very close to order suspension for both the front and back. I can share my experience. The main benefit for removing the shock towers is more room in the engine bay (duh) which would make you possible engine list longer, and easier if you want to build a turbo engine. Other than that there isn't really much difference in performance between a Mustang II-ish suspension setup and one that uses the stock pickup points, though everything is supposedly better than the stock suspension. That is if you want to trust the internet because I don't have any actual experience. Regarding the rear, the difference between a 4 link or a 3 link/torque arm as I understand it is that the 4 link is better in straight lines and worse in curves and the 3 link/torque arm is the opposite. Not to say that both can work decent in both areas. Here is some pretty good summaries of some regular types of suspensions for solid axles. Here in Sweden if I want to have the car road legal with suspension othern than the original setup I have to get it inspected during and after the actual build before I can get it approved and registered with the new suspension. The inspector that I've been talking to didn't really like my first suggestion of a 4 link because he said that the arms usually bind at the extremes where as a 3 link or torque arm is virtually bind free. He aslo said that a 4 link will want to steer the rear axle when the car goes through corners. If you turn to the left the rear axle also turns a slight to moderate amount to the left (or right, can't remember), which can make the car harder to handle. His suggestions was to try and keep the self steering in the rear to a minimum and to try and reduce scrub radius as much as possible in the front (that's another story). He has been working as an inspector for modified veicles since at least 2002.

From what I've read the TKO 500/600 usually fit with little to no modification to the tunnel. If you step up to the 6 speed T56 you almost always need to modify the tunnel unless you drop the engine 0.5-1.0" with special engine mounts. That might add some other clearance problems though with headers among other things. I might add that I don't have any actual experience, just internet surfin'. Nice looking car btw. What steering wheel is that?

From googling (since I don't have my originals close by) it apperas to be of 194 style bulbs. I'm way too far away from needing to install lights at the moment, but when I get closer I'll be sure to contact you, if not for the side markers then for everything else. I really like the reverse/turn light combo. Since every car from -76 onwards are required to have amber turn signals here in Sweden-land the Mustang is exempt from it, but because of that most people have a harder time reacting to red turn signals, myself included, so the amber ones seems really atractive.

Any plans on making side markers lights for the -69 too? Or are they perhaps interchangable?

I don't know what they are for, but I don't have them in mine at least

Around here.

I don't really think pounding on a person is the same as destroying windows of a car, but following the officers logic you should at least be able to destroy the windows on the car of the woman.

I have leveled the car according to the drawing and have some data, but I might have to level it again since there is some confusion again regarding where to measure from. Metric reference My measurements The red numbers are mine. In case of two number at the same place the first one is always the left side, or front left to rear right in the case of cross measurements. Feels like most numbers are within acceptable margain. Some notes: - K is shorter because the rear hole is just ahead of the spring shackle bolt on my car. No hole further back as in the picture. 69/70 differences? - The radiator support to floor support hole is about the same distance on both sides. The measurements differ because the outer plate of the front frame rail sticks out 5mm more on the right side. - E and F is not measured since the front suspension is off. The right shock tower is bent at the UCA mounting holes. Rear hole is 15 mm out and front hole 10 mm out compared to the left shock tower. Anything else that you guys think is wrong/weird? When reading the description for B and C they seem pretty specific on exactly where to measure. "Side rail" should probably reference the front frame rail based on the wording in B and C, and not the floor support. Around the X in top view for X-6 there is 3 layers of metal. They are from top to bottom; front frame rail, floor support and torque box. I measured from the floor support metal, which is a couple of millimeters lower than the front rail, and with that A is too high and the 11 3/16" measurement at the rear is too low. Now, if I measure X-6 at the front frame rail metal the front will lower and rear will lift makin those two measurements closer to reference, and the floor support and rails will be closer to level, which they are not at the moment (pointing up at the front). The left frame rail is probably too high anyway since I had some weird gaps between the left fender and the cowl grill plate before I took the car apart. Did you see a visible bend in the frame rails? My front frame rails themself seems to be completely straight when following the seam with a lazer level (best new tool this year) from the radiator to the firewall. I also can't see anything obvious with the fire wall, and the floor was rotted before I removed it completely. The floor support is also level with the rockers.

Would it be best to fix the frame when as much stuff as possible is removed from the car (floor, right shock tower, radiator support)? Also, is the X-6 in this from the bottom of the frame rail? If so I need to lift the front like 2", which doesn't make any sense. Or does "side rail" mean the outward flange on the top of the frame rail? If so then the drawing is somewhat missleading. Not having english as your first language is confusing sometimes.

Judging from the pictures here it looks like the driver side had a slightly bigger crease than the passenger side? Did you notice any obvious damage to the firewall? My frame rails doesn't appera to be bent like yours, but twisted relative to one another. See below. The firewall doesn't appear to be dented from what I can tell. At least nothing as obvious as the cowl. I'm gonna measure the tilt tomorrow and compare the rails to the rockers. Should they be close to parallel horizontally? The car is supported in 6 points, just behind the radiator support, on the rocker flange at the rear part of the front torque boxes and on the flange at the rear torque boxes. The floor is removed completely and I'm in the process of manufacturing and fitting inner rockers. The car was put on supports before the floor and export brace was removed, so any twisting was already in the car since before. I did take some measurements this evening with a level 1600 mm water level on the floor, which should give a hint of the side to side twist. The numbers are in millimeters and is the distance between the level and the underside of different parts of the car. 10 mm = ~0.4 inch. The measurements are from top down as follow: Front frame rails - between shock tower and sway bar mount - far rear end of frame rail Note: The distance to the center of the firewall between these 2 measuremetns are approximately the same. Rocker panel - just outside of the frame rail measurements - front part of the rear torque box Rear frame rail - middle of rear torque box - rear spring mount bolt The front frame rails doesn't look to be damaged, but apperare to have twisted with the firewall as the pivot point. The right shock tower, battery apron and radiator support is to be replaced, which would make the right frame rail the easter rail to fix before welding everything together. I would have to level the car according to the thread aslanefe posted to know exactly which side is twisted and how much before comitting to anything though. The passenger compartmens also seems to be slightly twisted relative to the rear torque boxes. I guess this should be the first thing to try and get straight before putting in the floor and inner rockers? Adjusting this to be straight would make the difference between the front frame rails even bigger. The front measurement would be close to 421/415mm while the rear would be 168/170mm. It's late here now, but I'm gonna go and check tomorrow exactly where the pivot of the frame rails would be. If they are an equal distance to the pivot then it would mean that the left rail would have to be moved down at the pivot point, or the right rail up. Or maybe the differences starts to be within accceptable marginal? It first needs to be adjusted to the factory measurements though. The car has also been hit in the rear left corner which is evident in the less than stellar floor repair behind the tail light. The left rail has a slight bend downwards from around the front of the gas tank which might explain the difference in the rear. This might also be a good thing to fix first, just to be able to determine where the reference point for the rest should be. I think that covers every thought I had while staring at the car for an hour after the measurements. :) Thoughts?

I'm soon going to remove the upper cowl to repair and prep the rusted, but still leak proof, lower cowl. The upper cowl have a crease in it on both sides, but more sever on the driver side. Is there anyone that have an idea of what might have happened here, and if there is something I should check before I remove it? As far as I can tell from measuring the frame is straight and sqaure, and the frame rails under the floor is level after the car has ben leveled to the rockers. My first through was that since the car had been in some kind of an accident in the front right corner some time in the past the whole front clip had pushed up and bent the cowl. The problem is that I can't find anyting other than the cowl to support that. No damages on the firewall or the inner fender closest to the firewall. The fender to cowl reinforcement plate in the picture seems to conform to the cowls crease perfectly too, and it's pretty thick compared to the rest so I have a hard time beliveing that it would bend. Is it just some dropped part from the factory that they decided to install anywa since it would most likely never be seen? Crappy picture, but you can se what I mean.

I'm from Sweden, and since Sweden seems to be one of the few odd ones in all of this I thought I should share this.

As exact as I can measure on my -69 Fastback with no floor. Also in metric millimeters (+/- 1 mm), just because. :)

I don't really know how it's over in the US, but I don't really buy that all of the stock market loss is because of the media. I mean China closed many of the trade routes, and I don't think they really care what the US media is telling everyone. I also don't necessarily thing the total number of deaths is a good indicator of how severe a disease somethig is. The mortality rate, or deaths per infected is more interesting, and the speed of which it spreads. Since no one is vaccinated against it it can run free and spread at a exponentially higher rate than a normal flu. That means that the health care is in risk of running over its capacity, which can result in more deaths from the desease and indirectly result in worse care for everyone else. Covid-19 have a global mortalty rate at something like 3%, which is MUCH higher than a normal flu, but if you add a health care that is working on 200% locally that rate is significantly higher. Italy is a good example (in a bad way) with a mortality rate at 5% at the moment. Some of that also seems to be partially atributet do an overall high average age in the country too, but still. Though I agree that it's abit blown up, but severe nonetheless.

Does anyone have measurements from the wheel/hub surface to the outside surface of the spindle, or wheel/hub to centerline of balljoints (y1 and/or y2 on this sketch)? Edit; To add a bit of information, I'm having a discussion with some people on another forum where we speculate about replacing the stock spindle with the Wilwood Pro Spindle to improve some characteristics of the stock suspension, mainly scrub radius. To make a fair and correct reference point we would need some measurements of the stock spindle. I have a pair of -69 spindle laying around but everyting is still attached to them, including the arms, and I don't have the tools right now to remove everyhing and take accurate measurements. So I thought I'd take the easy route and ask around because I can't find any reliable information on the dimentions of the stock spindle.

I'm in similar thoughts, mostly in the gathering-of-information part so far though. From what I've read about the input shaft it seems the Viper is better than Ford, 26 vs 10 spline. Consider changing the clutch instead. The Viper T56 also has its shifter 1.4 inch more forward than the Cobra T56 (https://core-shifters.com/pages/shifter-distances), which would mean you'll have to expand the shifter hole, or move the engine back for it to be centered in the stock hole. The Cobra T56 shifter is already more forward than stock according to Buening's thoroughly T56 build thread (https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/the-t56-conversion-into-a-70-mach.613843/) which would make it even harder I assume. For those willing to import there is also the Cleveland/Windsor to GM T56/TR6060 bellhousing (https://www.rodshop.com.au/gm-t56-6-speed-transmission-to-ford-cleveland-and-carby-windsor-289-351.html).

Bloody gorgeous!

So no other treatment other than removing loose debris? Have you put it to the test? From what I'm reading it does sound promising.

I have started to cut up the old floor on my 69 fastback since it was rusted through. Now that the floor is gone I can inspect the frame rails more thoroughly and beside surface rust, some minor dent from a jack and a wasp nest they seem to be in very good condition. The rails under the floor is easy to get to now that the floor is removed, but the engine bay, over the axle and in the trunk seems harder to reach and clean without cutting up good metal. It's a couple of years down the road, but I'm not planning on leaving the car in the garage just because it's raining a little. The big question now is what would be the best way to treat the rails on the inside? Should I also open up the rear torque box and treat it while the floor is out? The front torque box will probably be opened up anyway since I'm planning on installing vert inner rockers. A second smaller problem is in the left rail under the floor/firewall. The inner overlap from the engine bay rail have rusted, cracked and expanded upwards. Anything that should be adressed too?

Discuss! :)

1. We'll see when I cross measure the frame. I lost the measurements that I did earlier, but if I remember correct there were hardly any differences. 2. I don't think it's really as bad as it sounds. I don't even know if it's related to the twist. I'll post some pictures later, but the thing is that I can't find anything that indicate that a possible twist of the front clip would cause that damage. I think you would see alot more obvious damage on the firewall if that was the case, which I don't. It's more like the cowl side of the plate on both sides is bent downwards to fit an already damaged cowl. From the look of it you could probably just remove the plate, push out the cowl from the inside and bend the plate to fit the fixed cowl.

My fault. I meant I leveled the rockers in the front and rear of the door. I did some more measuring on the front and rear frame rails. The rear just ahead of the front spring mount is within ~1 mm, the front under the firewall about the same, but the rear end of the front frame rail on the driver side is about 3-4 mm lower (~1/8") than the passenger side one. The front end of the driver frame rail is also 8 mm (~3/8") higher than the passenger rail. The car has been in a crash in the front right corner some point in time because the radiator support and battery tray seems to be hammered back in shape somewhat. Doesn't seem to be any direct damage to the frame rail though. The passenger side shock tower also have some strange damage, apart from the usual crack. It looks like the rear bolt for the upper control arm is pulled outwards 3/8" together with the tower and that they have tried (and failed) to heat and hammer it in place too. Some more information that I've been withholding is that the driver floor is totally rotten on both sides of the frame rail, but the passenger side seems fine. Can years of use with a bad floor make the whole driver side frame rail twist up in the front and down under the floor with the center point at the firewall? There is a crease in the upper cowl too. Looks like the plate connecting the fender to the cowl have tried to push down or twist the cowl. This is also more apparent on the driver side than the passenger side and seems to point towards some twist in the driver side rail mostly.

Thanks for the tips. I'm going to take some more measuremetns this weekend. I'm not sure I understand what you mean here.

I'm slowly but steady getting ready to replace the entire floor on my 69 fastback. The car is up on 5 jacks, 4 on each spot weld flange in every corner of the floor and 1 in the center of the radiator frame support. The floor has some very minor twist in it, ~1 mm difference between front right to left rear after I got it as level as possible. Not enought to care about. After I got the floor level I decide to measure the shock towers and realise I can put almost a whole finger under one side of the water level to get it flat. I then measure from a level floor to the lower flange on the frame rail in front of the shock towers and I get ~8 mm (~0.35 inches) difference compared to the floor. I also measure at the back from a level floor up to the gas tank flange, ~1 mm difference. The rear end and leaf springs is only mounted in the front. What do you guys think, is it within factory tolerances or should it be adressed? And if it needs to be adressed, how?