Casgar

Get a cat.

I have a hard time believing they would deform, so I would try mount the "spreader" as far up as possible. More leverage and therefore less actual force at the contact points.

I'm the same height as you and will also need to lower the seat. I have played with a similar idea, but with the square tube running from rocker to rocker, and with a bend over the tunnel, and maybe a drive shaft loop. You could probably make it lower and still keep it sturdy since you have plenty of room for a tall tube going mostly under the floor, at least in the front. So far it's only an idea in my head, so I don't know how feasible it is.

I'm pretty much a novice too, but from what I understand it's the relative angles between the transmission and the pinion, and their centerlines that is of interest. The angles relative to the car/ground is more a concequence of trying to keep the driveshaft angles correct. Also, I think the 3-link would raise the pinion less under acceleration compared to leaf springs.

Posting these pictures a bit late since the event took place in the beginning on June 2022. Wheels National is one of, if not the biggest car show in Sweden and consists of 4 shows in different parts of the country. The Wheels National Norr (North) takes place in my town. Last year was the first year after a two year hiatus due to covid, and sadly the the usual area was probably around 50% smaller compared to previous years because they built a new arena there. Because of this only cars older than 1980 (I think) was allowed entry last year. Usually whoever has an old or somewhat special car is allowed entry as long as there is room. One corner of the show usually have a couple of hot rods and a truck or three. The day ends with a cruise around the city center for a couple of hours.

I came in through the windshield, mostly because there was not enought room besides the car in my garage, and the windshiled was removed. Haven't tried from below, but I've seen people do it through the doors. If the floor below the rear seats are ok I would not replace that. Just keep abit of overlap between the old and the new floor to have something to weld them together later. That would have saved me some work if I had just stopped and reflected a second before going ham with the angle grinder.

No pictures, but I also replaced about 1/4 of the endge around the vent that were fully rotted with a vice-and-hammer crafted plate. The part was on backorder from the manufacturer at the swedish supplier for over a year. Wasn't too keen on shipping a piece. The vent had holes around some of the sqrew holes too. I removed the rust with some acid, and then epoxy glued the holes. Not the best looking result, but you'll never see it anyway. Would have been easier and prettier with the panel though.

After some googling I can tell you I have a crappy one. It's thick alright, but have nowhere near as deep groves as the NPD one. A problem for later I guess. Not exactly sure what you mean. Do you mean part that goes underneath the framerail and have the LCA holes in it? I did that because the fitment wasn't perfect on them eighter, so I realigned them. If I was going to do it again I would have kept the brackets removed from the shock tower until the tower had been welded in place. That way I could adjust them even better since they didn't, and still doesn't lay flush towards the framerail. Another thing I'll have to correct later when I get the car up on a rotisserie, because it's a PITA to cut and weld while laying on your back.

Just a little recap. I have just welded the shock tower in place, except from below. It is now identical in measurements and angles to the driver side, <2 mm and within 0.2 degrees. I guess I still need to pull both towers closer together though, since when I bolt on the export brace to the firewall there is still a significant gap. I also bought Zray's crossmember, which arrived 2 weeks ago, and based on that the frame rails is slightly too wide apart. Not so much that you cant get the bold to bite, but you need a tool get the bolt all the way in. Is it really better to pull the tower and/or frame rails together to fit the brace, rather than make/buy an adjustable brace and accept the offset? I'm not really that impressed with the fitment of the brace anyhow. The distance between the frame rails on the inside just in front of the shock towers is just slightly below 23.75 inches. I guess fitting a hood and some fenders are needed before deciding.

Also, trying to backtrack the exact sequence of events in the crash that f***ed up the old shock tower is exiting in its own way!

Hmm... You might be on to something. I quickly went out and measured some angles with my phone and it might looks like both frame rails are twisted out slightly at the top, possibly more on the passenger side, but everything below 1 degree. Another think to keep in mind for sure. The mounting surface for the upper control arm on the old tower were also pulled out approximately 1/2", so that would also explain a twist in the frame rails. Readjusting the twist should be the last thing to do, right? Cutting, bending and rewelding the shock tower to replicate the relative angles on the driver side tower > welding the shock tower to the frame rail > twisting the frame rails with the tower so that the export brace fit. Horizontally not that bad, but vertically pretty bad since the driver side frame rail pointed up by about 5/8" in the front. I had the cahssi aligned by a professional 2 years ago, so the cross measurements and datum line measurements should be as good as they can get without risking making them even worse. My crossmember (or rather the frame rail bolt holes) measures 29.4" C-C, +/- 0.1". So that might also support the theory of twisted frame rails. This is why many brains together is superior to a single lonely one. :)

If I push in the tower until it touches the rear fender apron I get pretty close to your number, within 1/8". Originally the car had the 2-piece export brace, which I don't have around at the moment. I don't really think those are a good way to get a reference point though. I bought a 1-piece, but it's not perfect eighter. The mounting surface at the cowl point upward towards the front a fair amount and if I align the tower according to RPM's numbers above the brace still wants me to pull the towers closer together by an adittional 1/2" to 3/4". The center-to-center distance between the inner most holes on the brace is 30.6", if someone wants to compare.

I'm working on replacing the passenger side shock tower since the old one was twisted and had a crack in it. The new shock tower looks good, but have some minor issues. The biggest is that when I have it positioned and flush towards the frame rail and the lower control arm mounting point is in perfect position the part above the frame rail lean out by about 2.5 degrees compared to the driver side tower (0 dergees). Just pushing the tower inwards at this point means that the gaps towards the frame rail increases and the lower control arm mount gets lower. Not good either. No matter how you turn you still have your ass behind you (swedish proverb). My current plan is to make a relief cut across the inner structure (red) and try to bend the tower inwards across the top of the frame rail (green), and then just weld it together again. Just writing this to check with you guys if you think it's a good idea, or if there is some better way to adress this.

I've read the article and skimmed through the study and have a couple of critiques. "Well, how about that..." A car and motor magazine is highlighting a "study" about how electric veicles is dirtier than classics.That doesn't mean that what they are saying is wrong, just that it should be a warning sign, and that you should take what they write with a grain of salt. Who or what is Footman James? It's a "Classic Veicle Insurance Specialist". Hmmmm...... Bias anyone? The "study" is in no way a scientific study meant to be published in a scientific paper. There is no summary, no goal of the study and way to many subjective hearsay sprinkled throuhout the "study". It's an "Indicator report" as they say themself in the closing page, probably meant to get a grasp on their customers and possibly as a commersial. A classic car releases less CO2 per year than what it takes to produce a new electric veicle? Well, no shit! Apples to oranges. The biggest thing you could do when you buy a car if you are enviromental consious is to buy a used car. And if your wallet is a concern that car will most likely have a combustion engine. At least for now. The battery will need to be replaced within 46 years? There have been studies on Tesla batteries and that they retain 90% of their capacity after 200 000 miles. 46 years is a long time and I just have a hard time imagining most EV reaching classic status irregardless of the battery. Who in their right mind would replace a cool classic hobby car with an soulless EV?

Good to hear. The crossmember is staying as it is then, which makes everything abit easier. I will have to replace the front fender too so I'm not sure how useful this is for my specific case. It's a great tip though.

I'm about to replace the radiator support and at least the right front inner fender because sometime in the past the car was in a crash and had the right front corner pushed in, and then pushed out again with a crude method, most likely a BFH and a prybar. What would be the best way to aling the radiator support? Just try to use the same cross measurements as the left side, or install the hood and try to line it up relative to that? Any other tips? Also, the radiator support crossmember have had some rough times too, but nothing that I think would need a replacement since it really can't be seen from the outside. Lets just call it battle scars. :) I have had the frame aligned and I'm also afraid removing the crossmember will release some tensions and make a replacement a pain in the a**, but I'm uncertain what some of the holes are for since I can't remember when I picked the car apart. What are the three bold holes in the middle of this picture for? Do they need to be straight? I should probably make a project thread someday too... :)

Ok, I don't think I can get better information than that. Thanks!

As nice as it would be to order some of those front fenders, I feel like the money could be placed better at the moment. Will keep them in mind though. Regarding your rear flares, you say you haven't mini tubbed the car. What did you do about the outer wheel well? Is the fender lip similar to stock?

People get organ transplants and hip joint replacements all the time to be able to keep on living a healthy life. Keeping it original is only special as long as you are able to keep it on the road in a fun and safe way. Even if you freshen it up and replace some parts it's still the same car. I'd say go for it and make it the car you always wanted! You only live once! :)

Since my rear fender lips have rusted and needs replacing and I have an extra pair of front fenders I thought that maybe I should try to flare them abit, but I'd like it to look like they could have come that way from the factory. If they turn out bad nothing is lost and I get another chance to decide what I want after I've replaced the rear lip. If they turn out good I can just replicate it again and just keep the extra front fenders as they are. The mild flare that some Trans Am cars have look mean! Anyone have any information on how they were made? Dolly and hammer? Example of the look I'm after: https://silodrome.com/ford-mustang-boss-302-trans-am/

I might have been abit unclear, the last video is not mine. I just thought it was cool. :) Here are some of mine. The first if of a WRC II car, the rest is WRC I. https://imgur.com/KZRNoMO https://imgur.com/QDdYwnK https://imgur.com/6K6Q5Wb Don't forget to turn on the sound. My phone's microphone doesn't do it justice though.

For the first time since it started in 1950 the yearly World Rally Championship in Sweden have changed location because of lack of snow in recent years. The new location is further north in my hometown, so of course I had to go. Only 3 top teams, Ford, Hyundai and Toyota. 380hp 1.6l turbocharged engines with an electric motor of 130hp. I've had really fun the last couple of days! Remember that almost all the roads are regular gravel country roads or access roads for forestry industry.

If I had a real GT350, had no plans to ever sell it, and wanted it go be more compedative I would at most upgrade it with bolt-on stuff, or maybe, MAYBE, minor welding. Lowering the seat platform to be able to fit more comfortable, yes. Rising the transmission tunnel to fit a different transmission, maybe. Removing the shock towers and installing a different crossmember and suspension, BIG NO NO. Whatever you do the car will be worth less. Money aside, I think you should at least reflect on that it's really a rare piece of car history that you are trying to modify. If I had way more time, money and skills, and I REEEALY wanted a bad ass GT350 I would probably get a random shell and make into a GT350 clone. Something like this:

Merry Christmas! Hope your bellys haven't bursted from all the christmas food. :)

Or just about everything.