Viperpete

oh, and what i'm doing... Boss 429 clone. 460 block, stoked to 600. Jon Kasse heads. T56 Magnum, fuel injected.

1k hp. Not going to drag race it a lot. But some.

Look at this badboy! Does anyone have any experience with this setup? Looks great. I am still deciding what rear suspension i want to run on the car and need something that can handle serious power. Obviously this will add a lot of weight, but id rather have something heavy and strong. Price seems really reasonable too. https://totalcostinvolved.com/products/1964-5-1970-mustang-torque-arm/#prettyPhoto

Yeah it does that without the kickdown. Downshifts when I give it gas. Surprised actually how crisp and fast the shifts are.

Tranny is a C4. It downshifts like a normal car without the kickdown. Don't know how though if you are saying that is a required part. Id say that it needs to see 1/2+ throttle to downshift. I'll try fiddling with the bracket first then.

What is the kickdown used for exactly? The car downshifts just fine when i give it gas.... Also what kind of spring would you recommend?

I have a 1 wire alternator. Also an AAW wiring harness. I just wired the choke to a KEY ON 12v spare circuit. The car is running really good. I am not really looking for optimal anything. I don't want to invest any more time/money in it honestly. I am saving up for the MTF parts and also the Jon kasse heads. Shits expensive!!!! I have spent roughly $4300 getting the car reliable.Tranny rebuild, new carb, new ignition system, rebuild 8" rear, dual exhaust, AAW harness, headlights and trim, rear brakes and lines, oil pump- gasket rear main seal, valve cover gaskets, fluids, 1 wire alternator, like 4 speedometer cables, front shocks and blinker/driving lights. I also found a reasonably priced set of magnum 500's and i LOVE the way the car looks. I just want to drive the car for a while bone stockish until the Boss 429 project begins.

There is a tiny little vacuum line on the electric choke that is going to a distribution block of vacuum lines on the back of the intake. The timing is what it is. I have rotated the dizzy slightly over the last couple of days and hear no pinging at WOT while driving. Idle does not drop. I can rev the car and the idle drops quickly and accurately and does not "bog down" or have any trouble what soever. My plan is to adjust the cable bracket and see if that makes a difference in the pedal feel I will take a video of the car at idle, and revving so you can see how nicely the engine behaves now.

OK so remember my car was shaking a lot, and took a long time to start? Well the issue was the carb! Not timing, not the harmonic balancer or any number of other suggestions. I bought a Holley 2 bbl carb from a member here. It was nearly new and I thought his price was fair so I bought it. I hooked it up and the car sputtered to life for a moment then died. Then id crank and crank and crank and it would sort of gurgle and then POOF turn off and blow fuel out the top of the carb!! WTF? wow I am not experienced with carbs. So I called my expert. My dad. He literally wrote the book on Mustangs and also engines- and a TON of other automotive material. So I told him what was going on with teh car and asked him to come over. Literally I mean literally within 5 minutes, of adjust this, turn this screw, back this screw a little bit, adjust this.... the car was running INCREDIBLY smooth! And literally would start with a single CLICK of the key! I mean holy ****, this thing starts faster than any of my FI cars. Instant ON! wow! I am so completely impressed with him right now. He said he hasn't messed with a carb since the mid 90's but I guess that when you learn how to ride a bicycle..... All I can say is WOW and I am so thrilled with how much better the car drives. It feels like it has double the power, the throttle response is amazing, even the transmission seems to shift better. The only thing that is not 100% yet is the gas pedal is a lot harder to push down. I think I need a different spring or adjust the cable bracket a little bit. Old Motorcraft carb: Holley 350 cfm 2bbl

Mine was born October 1968. It has the recessed numbers.

oh ok, gotchya. fwiw, i use postimage.org free to upload images and then i just post a link to the photo- takes no bandwidth.

Can't see the pics!

When I rebuilt my C4 i had a similar issue- when cranking there would be this awful clanking and banging sound. I had bolted it up without the torque converter drain bolt going through the hole... DOH! All I did was loosen the bolts all around the transmission and then installed 2 much longer bolts at the 9-3 o'clock bolt holes and then was able to slide the tranny back at least 1.5-2" Plenty of room to wiggle the torque converter into place and get it bolted up properly.

Starter is a autozone replacement. I doubt that it is the starter. The original factory ford starter was on the car and I thought it was the problem, and turns out it wasn't. Just the solenoid. Still have the original. I have to use a 1 wire alternator because of the AAW wiring harness.

What's the deal with these things? Are they all just poorly built/design? I have driven the car approx 60 miles since I got it in January. Started maybe 50-60 times id say- mostly moving the car in and out of my workshop. I am on my 4th starter solenoid. Doesn't matter where I buy it from they all seem to fail. Autozone, NPD, Advance Autoparts... all the same garbage. What could the cause be? I have 4 gauge power wire for starter, alternator, and from the solenoid to the battery. 4 gauge ground from the block to the frame. 4 gauge ground from the battery to the frame. Strong battery. New starter, Powermaster 1 wire alternator, new coil, new wires, new plugs. Car has been completely rewired. Solenoid is firmly bolted to the engine bay. The first one I had I saw smoke come from it because it had bad connections, but the last 3 have not smoked. One was stuck ON and would not stop the starter unless i disconnected the battery and the alternator... what a freak thing that was. This last one rotated the engine for a brief moment, then would just make a loud CLICK when I tried to start. There is also a drain on the battery somewhere. I can't leave the battery connected for more than a couple of days or the battery will be completely drained. I don't know if that is related but it might be. I have the AAW kit. I really can't think of what could possibly be draining the battery. There is nothing connected other than the alternator, coil, head/tail lights. Nothing else electric is connected. Replaced the solenoid again with a new one from Autozone and the car fired right up. Ideas?

Wire looks awfully small to me honestly.I wouldn't want to run anything less than 6 gauge. When I swap the motor and do all the electronics i'll be using 2 gauge.

I have a 1 wire also. I got it from NPD. I really should install a fuse as well. DO you guys use the big fuses like for an aftermarket amp or something?

Anyone got a decent set of Magnum 500's they would want to either sell or trade me for? Have these to trade, very good condition.

Man... that's a lot of work... I'll definitely have to replace the trunk floor pan and the rockers are toast too

Seems too good to be true honestly... but.... Gainesville FL> https://daytona.craigslist.org/cto/d/1969-ford-mustang-fastback/6616653133.html

All of my cars are women. Natasha, Geneva, Luna, Sophia, Isabella, Giselle, Ivy, haven't named my 73 Lincoln Mark IV Ships are considered women and named as well. It is nothing new to name cars. This might answer your question...." One theory is that the habit carried over from men's habit of calling ships "she" and naming ships after women, most often goddesses in ancient times. While ships are not as common a mode of transportation for civilians any longer, in the American and British armed forces, active ships are still referred to as feminine. Similarly, when men became dependant on motor vehicles, they were an ornament of pride and cared for with great attention by their male owners. Some men had a very chauvinistic view of the female car in that it was just a pile of metal without him at the wheel (as the automobile was introduced, only men could afford to or in many areas legally operate one). Other men adopted the mentality that the automobile must be tended and coddled with a gentle hand and therefore was perceived as being feminine. " Or this "This can be for a number of reasons. When they are named, some males think of the vehicle as their significant other. They develop a relationship with the vehicle for any number of reasons. They have an affinity to the vehicle. Maybe they have had some beautiful experiences together. In spanish, almost all cars are in masculine form though “El Auto” while suv’s are feminine “La cameoneta.” Why that is, I do not know, but it has nothing to do with relationships the way I referred to them above."

It runs perfect under load and seems to have decent power. I havent done a compression check though. It doesnt shake badly enough for me to think it has a dead cylinder.

FYI this is how it looked when I got it home... He did make it presentable at least.

I got the car in January. A friend and I drove from Ocala FL to Lowell MA and back in 3 days. I should have re-negotiated the deal when I got there but I didn';t want to harm my ebay status in anyway so I just paid for it. Even though the car has issues, I still paid thousands less than cars on the market right now- in worse condition. It is edgy and all that, but it still moved under its own power. Vibrated since day 1.