Jump to content

Viperpete

Members
  • Content Count

    113
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by Viperpete

  1. Happy to give you measurements i've taken if you need them.
  2. Update So the last few days I've been working to get the front clip squared up. I didn't like the gaps from the fenders and hood or that the front clip just didn't look right. I'm glad I kept the original front end as that was very helpful along with the Mach 1 to get the measurements I needed. Overall, I'm really happy with the fender/hood/cowl gaps. Even in this rough mockup, I like the results. I'm actually quite surprised how tight the gaps are. The fender apron brackets were a pain. I even tried using an original one, but that fit worse than the new ones. The metal is noticeably thicker on the original versus the aftermarket bracket FYI. I don't know how that will affect strength, but there is a significant difference in metal thickness. I ended up having to buy a second passenger side inner fender apron because the Canadian one I bought fit terribly (I didn't read the description on NPD's website, and it does mention the fit). So far they both seem to fit terribly, but the import brand (which is less money by the way) required less cutting away of material to get the measurements I needed. Neither of them hug the contours of the firewall precisely, but they will have to do for now. I tried mocking up the new fenders I bought recently, but they were not cooperating. I tried installing the passenger side one on the Mach 1 too and it just didn't fit right. The original fenders just fit better. They don't fit the doors that well. I wonder if I should try installing the original doors now too and see how they go together. The front bolt holes on the aftermarket fenders also do not line up with the core support at all. I don't like that. The original ones like up well enough. I'll try installing the new headlight buckets and see how those fit next. The hood is just laying there, no hinges installed, but looks nice and straight The front end is about 1/16th - 1/8" off from being perfectly square. I just can't get it closer than that. It'll have to do.
  3. oof that sucks. i've been welding for years. i always wear a auto darkening hood, long sleeves, boots, jeans and gloves. Ive been burned plenty!
  4. Hey yall Sorry I haven't posted in a while. I bruised some ribs back in June putting a drunken idiot in a headlock and it took a while to heal before I could get back to work on the car. But I have a nice update. I have fitted the rear seat bulkhead, rear quarter extensions, trunk lid, front fender aprons, radiator core support, fender supports, 3 pairs of fenders, and 2 pairs of doors so far. A friend lent me his 69 Mach 1 so that I could remove the front fenders to I could get measurements as my original car has no front clip. Poor car is rusted out really bad, runs and drives though. He is the second owner, it has 70k miles (I think). 351 and a 4 spd with AC. Nicely optioned. The rear of the new shell looks really really good. I need to move the quarters towards each other a little more so that I get a window width that is closer to my car. The quarter extensions actually fit better than the original car which is amazing. The rear bulkhead is interesting too. I think I've got it positioned approximately where it is supposed to go. The door situation has been frustrating. They both came damaged and my stupid ass didn't unbox them for 2 months. CJ won't take them back but gave me a small refund. Either way, I don't think I am going to use them anyway. The passenger side is tough I just cannot get it to line up. I had to cut the drivers side a little bit to get it to fit (as it was completely misshapen) to the quarter panel and it fits reasonably well. I am going to remove them and try my original doors and see if they fit better. That will tell me more about the overall rightness of my shell. I have tried 3 pairs of fenders so far on the shell. My original ones and the Mach 1 fenders just don't fit very well to the aftermarket front end. I bought some new ones from NPD and they fit much much better. It looks like I only need to close up either side maybe a few millimeters to have pretty good clearance. The front fender holes that attach to the MTF core support do not line up. I'll have to drill out new ones. Both stock fender pairs did line up to these holes. I still need to get my front end perfectly square. Honestly working on this assembly table at this stage of the build has been a pain. It's so high up. I am constantly climbing up and down and performing a balancing act and trying not to fall off. My advice to anyone who builds one of these, make sure it is height adjustable! The hood fits terribly but I think that is because I haven't adjusted the hinges and the fenders aren't property positioned. Looks cool attached to the car tho. I snipped the roof panel on the pass rear side and that took out those weird bends out of it. I still have to figure out how to pull it down or pull the quarter upwards so there is less of a gap where those 2 panels meet. The drivers side is a lot tighter. I am not going to use my factory doors and I am not going to use these new CJ doors either. NPD has some on order and should be hitting the warehouse around October I am told. Which means that I really can't do much more on the car at this point until I've got them. Everything seems to revolve around the fitment of the doors. Having fun with the build and looking forward to the coming cooler weather. I think the cooler weather and the welding stage are going to coincide nicely.
  5. So I got the decklid lined up or at least very close to the original car's measurements. I layed the glass in to see how the front and rear glass fit. Not too happy. Pretty big gaps. I don't remember how big they were when I removed the glass originally or how much the trim covers. I'm going to try placing the glass back in the 69' and see if the gaps/fit are the same. Quite a large gap here.... Also, look how the roof skin lines up in the front versus the rear. The passenger side is a little off. Not sure how to correct this.
  6. Nice update! So I had a flash of inspiration the other day. I unscrewed the firewall from the passenger side of the floor pan and used some ratchet straps to first pull the floorpan downward, then and used another 2 straps to get it positioned to where it looked right and level. I am happy to report that it is positioned really well now! I also fitted up the rear quarters, extensions and tail light panel. There are still gaps here and there but I think so far I have been really lucky with panel fitment. It would appear that aftermarket panels do fit well to each other. I have to take pics, but I also was able to fit the piece that goes between the back glass and the trunk. I used the original 69' for measurements and got it really spot on. Will post pics of that later.
  7. OK will do! I honestly think that the firewall was just stamped poorly. I went to NPD today to see if they had one that I could measure but they didn't. They are getting one in for me next week. From the bottom of the rocker to the top of the firewall corner is 21.5" on both sides on the original car. On the new firewall its 21.5" on the drivers side and 22.5" on the passengers side. That's where the gap is. I think its just a bad firewall.
  8. Hmmm. Ok i'll try experimenting a little bit.
  9. I don't know what that is? lol
  10. So I figured that now was a good a time as any to get that brace I made for the 69' into the new shell and see how things look. I had to cut it in 2 pieces because there was no way to remove it from the car. First I made an adapter for it using bolts/nuts and some square stock/angle iron so that I could easily get it back to the original shape easily and take it apart if needed. The brace bolted to the side assembles perfectly. That reassures me greatly. That means that the door openings, floor pan width and height are the same as a factory car. The gap at the firewall still remains. Not sure what to do about that other than get another one. I don't have anything to compare it to. It seems unlikely that the passenger side assembly and the outer side cowl would both be "off" equally to make that large gap.
  11. Hmmm maybe? I can't remember honestly. So these will not work on a fastback right?
  12. I thought I read somewhere that they can be used on the fastbacks for increased rigidity. I was planning on wire/wheeling all areas before welding :)
  13. Sorry I haven't posted much. Been busy! Quite a bit of work has been done. MTF frame is in. Floor has been leveled and I've been getting the panels ready for test fitting. Made some changes here and there based on some MTF advice. He's really been great helping me with the project. Here are 2 videos that show what I've been doing along with some pics of a weird gap I'm dealing with. Nothing has been welded into place as of right now other than the MTF frame. The floor pan assembly is screwed to the firewall and MTF frame for now. https://youtu.be/JdgtnvJN4G0 https://youtu.be/0R7pTS33rBI I painted the insides of the outer rockers after watching some Peterson restoration videos. They are coated with weld-thru primer but honestly that stuff doesn't seem very good. There's already some rust forming on my floor pan assembly. I bought a pneumatic punch and man that thing is a godsend. Saves to much time instead of drilling out all those holes. Couldn't use it everywhere but definitely a huge time/energy saver. Here's the gap. Not sure what's going on here. Rockers are level both sides but the passenger side is 3/4" too low. Maybe its a bad firewall? Don't know because the upper and lower cowl fit to it pretty nicely. Must be something i've done incorrectly. Also, What happens with these gaps on the sides? Do the torque boxes cover them? And I bought these quarter panel braces but have no idea where they go...
  14. sweet! ya send me the link
  15. Checked it today. Only 1/4" off!!!! Another day should do it :)
  16. Not needed. I pulled the bolt out and the floor only went back up 1/3 inch or so. Having it pulled down the last few days has bent it almost into perfect shape. I've pulled it down about 1/2" past the hole using a ratchet strap and a lift bolt hole and am gonna give it a few days and see what happens. Going out of town so its a good time to try this.
  17. I'm not following where or what specifically you are asking me to cut. Can't I just use the ratchet strap or come along to pull the X6.5" passenger side down further than needed and see if it stays there? Or if it goes up less?
  18. First video! https://youtu.be/GsCi5wPmbwk
  19. Exactly :) Thanks for your help. I gotta get a GoPro because I want to make a video channel of building a Mustang from scratch.
  20. This is how far off the passenger frame rail was off. 5 other points on the floor assembly were at the correct height and were welded to the table. I'm relived that the floor assembly was only tweaked a little bit. I think it was from sitting on its side against the wall of my shop for 6 months. Don't know for sure. Ready to clamp those side assemblies now!
  21. So I found the issue. The front X6" and rear 11 3/16" measurements are correct. The drivers side X-6 1/2" is correct but the passengers side is off by about 3/4". I think this is from the floor assembly being on its side against my shop wall for 6 months. If I push down on the passenger side it does get closer to the 6 1/2". I'm using some anvils to get it pressed down so I can weld it to the assembly table at the correct height. The front frame and rear gas tank area are at the correct heights and are welded in place to the table. The side to side measurements are also very close to spec. 1/16" off here and there. I think that's within tolerance. Will post pics later of what I did.
  22. Ok, i'll check tomorrow and see what I have left. I threw out almost everything as the floor pan was in such horrible shape. I think i've got the front clip and under the rear seat area/over the axle. I'll check tomorrow. This is what the shell looks like now except I built a dolly for it so I can move it around. You can see the rear seat area I mentioned on the floor on the left.
  23. Ya just thinking outloud. I'll see if I have that piece. Might, might not.
  24. Interesting idea. Ok. I think i might have the piece of the rear frame. Lets say that I do have them and they are different from the new floor pan assembly... I'll have to weld brackets to the front frame and the spring hole area. Then I guess use some square stock and a car jack to "bend" the rear frame upwards somehow evenly..... not excited to do that honestly. I do have the watts link with rear frame sections I bought from Mustangs to Fear. Might be worthwhile to bolt those in and see how they line up with the floor pan as they make those on their jig and they are 100% This is it: Those curved pieces go right over the stock rear frame section for the watts link.
×
×
  • Create New...