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The windshield pillars on my 69 coupe we're missing from what I've read the Scott Drake repose fit terribly any idea where to come up with usable 69 coupe windshield pillar covers?

Any idea where I can find headliner retaining wires for a 69 coupe?

Anyone have a favorite rear gear manufacturer need limited slip, ring and pinion. Putting aod in 69 have 279 open now.

Anyone have a favorite rear gear manufacturer need limited slip, ring and pinion. Putting aod in 69 have 279 open now.

A little more cam would be nice!

What do you think of the 2027 kit from Edelbrock? reading through the contents pretty much everything I was thinking about getting anyway they upgraded the valve springs from 1.25 to 1.46 diameter with damper spring and also improved the keepers and studs. I'm still finding some old kits out there with the 125 valve diameter but the one at Summit looks like the best kit it includes head bolts cam, lifters, pushrods gaskets e heads 2121 intake timing chain. If nothing else the E heads are better now different suppliers for the Springs keepers and studs for them.

Oops 3.43 Again thank you for your expertise you are a great asset for this site!

So....e heads and 2.43 gears didn't you tell me that already? Sometimes I'm not really good at thinking and listening at the same time!

Again thank you for your expertise 355 it is!

With the AOD and 26 inch tires 373’s at 75 miles an hour is 2531 for r.p.m. 355 gears is 2409. At 65 miles an hour with 355 it’s 2087 373 is 2193 either of those seem well within the power band and they’re not more than 110 rpm difference . So with the 355s be lugging too much at 65 miles an hour. I do think I’ll buy the GT 40s rebuilt by Windy City engine for 550 they are the 93 cobra heads

, the 351s would need Springs, exhaust seats ,valves,valves seals, valve job, and one head has a broken guide so the rebuilt GT40 heads are a better deal for me.

Recent divorce. I built the house 15 years ago it's financed at 6 1/2 % I can buy my portion of my fourplex from the x, can do that and money to build the car and still keep the mortgage $50 a month cheaper than what I'm paying now. At 67 , I will never pay off the house in the time I have left and toward the end it won't matter so extending the payments is not a factor. My fourplex, a 2 bedroom house and 2 three acre building lots are all paid for ( except for the yearly rent to the government ). Retired except for maintenance on the rentals, going to build myself a fun toy. Found some rebuilt GT40 heads I think I'll mildly port those and from what I'm reading I'll keep intake at performer level. rpm calculator is telling me the 373 would keep me at 75 at about 2200 RPM, (26 inch tires and the aod) High Enough so as not to keep shifting up and down on small inclines. We have some of those in the Black Hills. It may not sound like it but with your help and some reading I'm narrowing this down!

To be completely honest I'm doing a refi on my house I've got some stuff I needed to take care of so in the meantime I tacked on enough to do the Mustang so now all I have until that comes through is time to think. I'm at a point well there's not much left for me to take off of the Mustang I got to start buying stuff and putting it back together! Just wanted to use this time to talk to The Experts make sure I'm going to do it right so thank you again.

Sorry, that should’ve read mild port on the heads, and do I go with the stage one - like a performer or step up to the RPM level with the GT 40 heads , because when I read the description and questions on the intake you suggested one of the questions was with GT 40 heads and it said because of the flowrate it would be better to step up to the stage two. Again am I right back to killing the flow velocity and low-end torque? Idle to 5500 is probably my goal, I just keep getting sidetracked from the mild bill that I want, to the go fast which would be fun!

Sorry still evolving, found a pair of 93 Cobra GT40 heads thinking mild port the intake you suggested from Summit. But, it says with GT40 heads to go up to step 2.h Should i stay at level 1 or move to level 2 based on everything I've already rambled about?

Truly, thank you for all of your help.

Thank you very much I really do appreciate this. I agree on the exhaust note - fun when I was a kid now that I’m 66 not quite as much fun, like to keep the hearing I still have! Would an Edelbrock 500 AVS squeeze a little more mileage out of it versus the 600 or would I be giving away top end ?

I'm guessing flat top pistons to make up for the compression loss with a 351 heads eyebrows for the larger valves reasonable cam what kind of Street manners will this engine have on a long distance Drive? what kind of mileag? hundred thousand mile car? I really do appreciate the information. My last two cars were from a different manufacturer sort of new to the Ford small block. Hate to admit this but grocery getter and vacation touring car. If it was a Fastback or a special car I would feel different, but it's a coupe I really do want to just drive it.it is going to be a nice car and for the money I will have in it I can't think of anything else I'd rather have for that amount of money -. Kia... 69 mustang...humm.

Thank you what cam?

I don’t need to Rev over 5500 RPM as with an aod, 2500 will keep me at highway speed. South Dakota places are far apart so a lot of highway miles. reasonable low to mid range power is fine, mild to Moderate idle, budget -I want to do it right the first time As a healthy daily driver. I’d like to goose it once in a while just cause that’s fun but mostly I just want to drive it whenever, wherever. Thanks

Thank you for the response, I don't want to build this as a racer simply want a car I can drive to California and back.i want a solid daily driver 302. any guidance on how I should build that? torque isn't really my goal, just want a solid daily driver that isn't a dog. 50 years since it was built there must be some new secrets for better than stock performance. Have 302 block and 1970 d0oe 58.2 cc heads, am I missing any good options for a 69 coupe driver?

I bought a pair of C90E 69 351 heads that need completely redone. the heads I have on my car , a 69 302 coupe, are C00E the 58.2 cc that I could grind the bump out of and port mildly . my machinist is telling me don’t use the 351s because they will reduce the velocity a lot and lose my bottom end completely. I’m going AOD I’ll probably go either 355 or 373 rear Will the GT 40 or P heads also lose velocity? I’m doing a daily driver. Do I rebuild the 8 inch rear end to 355 or 380? currently it’s 279 gears. I have a 95 explorer 8.8 with 373 locking. Any insight would be greatly appreciated . Looking at Stock bottom about 9.5 compression and performer four barrel intake thinking the Edelbrock AVS 500 or 600. edelbrock tells me five is better for torque and mileage. I will defer to the experts here .

I have a rust free69 Nevada Coupe 302 (you know the old saying, cars and girlfriends, you want to start with the nicest body you can possibly afford) , what heads do I use? it has d o o e 302 heads, flat top pistons but the bore will need to be cut 20 over. I have the entire car to restore so I can't spend it all on the engine but, I found a pair of 351 d00e heads for $350, other options seem to be, gt40- low compression, gt40p- spark plug concern. aluminum heads pretty expensive, anyone use the skip white heads? planning a driver that would be able to cruise anywhere if I want to. looking at aod, have an Explorer I can pull the 373 locking out of, want to keep under .500 for cam lift not sure about duration roller rockers. probably Edelbrock performance intake would like an AVS 500 seems a little small but the 650avs seems a little big. I would appreciate any Tech advice you guys can give me.

In addition to spacers for the 716 studs V 1/2 inch holes what's involved in putting a 351 Windsor head on a 69 302 block?

Found both brackets with broken glass in them that’s all thanks for the leads!