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gordonr

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About gordonr

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  • Birthday 04/02/1960

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    Va.Beach

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  1. I have a 69 and the park light indicator is a stand alone mounted in the dash down by the ignition switch.
  2. Finally took care of my last dash electrical issue. My park brake switch was broken in half and couldn't locate a new one. Used ones were the only option besides fabbing something up. I found a new upgraded switch made of beryllium copper from a member here "aslanefe". Its made very well and popped right in. Also after a few seconds of engaging the switch the park light indicator actually starts flashing to catch the drivers eye. For me It seams the small things make me happy these days. Thanks again Ersin.
  3. "When I do upgrade the '69 radio with an audio input, RCA outputs would be nice so I can add a 4-channel or 2 2-channel AMPS and better speakers. Not looking for high power and thumping subwoofers, just a clean sounding system." Your not alone, Not everyone wants a large audio foot print in their classics. I've been focusing on that exact goal recently. I did an install on a 66 mid year vette a few weeks ago with no sub system as the customer wanted his system to have a small foot print. I came up with the idea of using the center dash 6x9 speaker as a woofer only, bridged out on the rear outs of a small alpine amp set on low pass. I used a set of high end 4" mids in the kicks with super small tweeters mounted in stealth areas on the dash set on hi pass. It sounds amazing. I started on my mustang a few months ago with this goal and I finally started making time this week to get back on it. I'm using a Apline R 5.25" as my woofer in the center and made steel screw in adapters in the original door speaker holes to support 4" mids.
  4. Try unscrewing the left front lens coverto expose the 1157 bulb. Using a test light and park lights turned on touch your test light probe to light bulb base if it lights the ground is bad. As a tip always verify that your test light operates from the ground point you attached the alligator clip to before testing.
  5. On a normal unmodified (incandesant) car that would normally mean the left front park/turn socket has a bad ground. Because of loss of ground the park light power passes thru to the turn signal element in the bulb instead of the socket base ground then back up the wiring to the dash and it illuminates the indicator.
  6. Take a look at mid 70's Corvette. They had a keyed switch in the left front fender for the alarm system. Drill a hole in your car somewhere then mount, wire and go!
  7. I did my headlight switch a while ago to correct voltage drops through it. Especially the circuit breaker points. I found cleaning the rheostat did help with gaps of dash lighting when rotated. Unfortunately I inspected it under power to verify its operation. I also pulled the cluster and cleaned all connections , sockets and replaced the bulbs. Glued a couple fingers on the pc too.
  8. Nice setup. Ford used a brake fluid level switch instead. Use your old wiring for the pressure differential switch for a level switch?
  9. The carb manufacture would definitely have the final say on the choke requirements though.
  10. Check out the choke diagram in 1973. It was done that way for a long time.
  11. It sounds like you have a few issues going on. Still using points with the choke wired to the ignition coil wiring will pull down your ignition coils available kilo volt output because of the lowered primary switching voltage . An electric choke can draw 2 amps upon initial turn on and will settle down under an half an amp or so 5 minutes later. Thats with 12 volts, I dont know your chokes ohm value or the ignition voltage sitting on your coil to know the exact loss. You should move the wiring to another source. "STA" terminal on the back of your alternator or some other creative places/ways others have mentioned before. As for timing I would set initial at 15* on a stocker and look for max advance by 2700 to 3000 rpm. Invest in the factory repair manuals as they have all the performance specs if your running a factory carb/distributor etc . They are inexpensive and will provide you hours of pleasure and enjoyment. Lol
  12. The dual brake warning switch is serving 2 functions. One is to join the two wires internally coming to it. The other is the momentary switch to ground when a pressure differential is present between the front and rear brake hydraulics. You can splice the two wires together and T another wire to either pin on the two pin switch or use a single pin switch. The prove out light bulb check for the brake light on the dash is performed by the ignition switch by providing power and ground in the start position for the warning light test. The bulb prove out check does not test brake system just bulb operation. "I was planning to make a parking brake switch (using 3D print and berillium copper)" aslanefe if still you plan on making a switch I'd be interested in one!
  13. This is how my 4.5" positive offset, 3 3/8" back space looks. I'm going to pull all the wheels and use a L square ruler to figure max offset with rim width to tire specs off the net. The specs for these cars really focus on back space mostly which for me is half the info.
  14. Your set up looks aggressive. Wheels being aluminum and thicker material what is your positive offset? 4.5"?
  15. I currently am looking into a custom sizes myself. My current wheels (Shelby Cal 500 14"x 7) are 4.5" offset with 3.3/8"back space on the front and have a nice profile. The backs are the same and just touch the inner lip with a passenger in the rear. So I called Wheel Vintiques for same offset for their Magnum 500's 15x8 front and the rears at 4.00" to 4.25" offset 15x10. They charge $50.00 per wheel for the mods though. v
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