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About Jwb5858

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  1. Mine is screwed in the frame with sheet metal screws.
  2. My stock 302 manual has a 1.08 with size 50 jets.
  3. Got my template today. Fantastic quality. Well done, Tos. Thanks John
  4. I like this option. Simple and effective. There is nothing more frustrating than remembering you left the e brake on as you are pulling away. This should help prevent that.
  5. If I go that route, any recommendations on which brand to get? I would like to use same mounting brackets without modifications.
  6. I am in Alabama. Sometimes rules are “interpreted” differently here.
  7. The recore estimate was over the phone. I dropped it off this morning and we’ll see what the shop recommends. I do agree it’s important to keep a car period correct if it hasn’t already been hacked. Thanks, John
  8. Here's the deal. I have a stock 69 convertible, 302, AC, 4 sp. The only modifications have been upgraded compressor, disc brakes, 4 spd (was 3 spd). My radiator took a dump and now I either need to replace or recore. From what I can find, my options are; New radiator, American made performance for 500+/- Import for 300 Recore for 300 I'm leaning towards a recore... This seems to be a great price from a local radiator shop. I've read but need to verify that the recore would use better quality materials than the import rads. Am I missing anything? Should keeping it stock be a factor? My current radiator is C9ZE J1 thanks
  9. What makes it even more confusing is the vendors make no distinction between the 69 and 70 guide rods.
  10. Now it's beginning to become clear. When I saw Ridge Runners pic on the different guide rod ends for 69 and 70, I knew the angled one would not fit the door. So, you have to bend the rod flange and the door mount. I sure hope others can use this info. Thanks for all the help! Let me just add that, This is the site for 69 / 70 mustangs!!
  11. I don’t know that I would want to try and bend the guide rod top flange while it’s in the car. But, that’s where I think I will have to make the adjustment. Ridge Runner, I am using the aluminum guide block. Mine has a dimple instead of a nipple.
  12. The outside window felt has been replaced. It’s about 1/2 thick. I was wondering how far out I could get the guide rod to move by elongating the bolt hole and bending the flange. That might be an option.
  13. My 69 convertible has been upgraded to bolt on glass and it sits off the door outer felt by about 1/4 - 3/8 inch. This causes it to push in on the windshield pillar weatherstrip when rolling up. I've tried all alignment options and nothing seems to correct the problem. After reading several post on the problem, none of which had a solution, it seems the location of the c guides that ride the guide posts are the root cause. Being bolted on the outside of the glass instead of on the bracket, inset and underneath the glass on glue in, it pushes the glass inward. Now, how to fix it? I've thought about grinding/milling down the inside of the c clamp. Or, I've thought about moving the guide rods out at the top, by cutting and rewelding the flange. I think getting a replacement set of guide rods and playing with then is the way to go. If you've got a better idea or have experience with this issue, please enlighten me. I will try and get some picks up after work today. Thanks John
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