Rich Ackermann

Hi Stan, Welcome to the forum! This may help you with identifying what's on your firewall. It's a picture of my 1970 Mach 1 351C M code with no A/C, no power brakes, no P/S, Manual trans.
m. This might help you

Those two Stangs look Fantastic! Nice work! What an experience for you and your boys! 

Well, The car is essentially done. Although we all know that our cars are never ever really done! I do have a list of things I need to or want to change/fix or tweak.
I belong to the local Mustang & Fords club here in Delaware and we had our fall show sponsored by a Ford dealership in Newark Delaware, Porter Ford. It was a nice day and we had a great turnout. I took the car to the show where it made it's debut.  The car got a lot of attention and took home it's first trophy. The awards were based on spectator popular vote and a Dealers Choice award.

Well, The car is essentially done. Although we all know that our cars are never ever really done! I do have a list of things I need to or want to change/fix or tweak.
I belong to the local Mustang & Fords club here in Delaware and we had our fall show sponsored by a Ford dealership in Newark Delaware, Porter Ford. It was a nice day and we had a great turnout. I took the car to the show where it made it's debut.  The car got a lot of attention and took home it's first trophy. The awards were based on spectator popular vote and a Dealers Choice award.

Hi Stan, Welcome to the forum! This may help you with identifying what's on your firewall. It's a picture of my 1970 Mach 1 351C M code with no A/C, no power brakes, no P/S, Manual trans.
m. This might help you

Well, The car is essentially done. Although we all know that our cars are never ever really done! I do have a list of things I need to or want to change/fix or tweak.
I belong to the local Mustang & Fords club here in Delaware and we had our fall show sponsored by a Ford dealership in Newark Delaware, Porter Ford. It was a nice day and we had a great turnout. I took the car to the show where it made it's debut.  The car got a lot of attention and took home it's first trophy. The awards were based on spectator popular vote and a Dealers Choice award.

Well, The car is essentially done. Although we all know that our cars are never ever really done! I do have a list of things I need to or want to change/fix or tweak.
I belong to the local Mustang & Fords club here in Delaware and we had our fall show sponsored by a Ford dealership in Newark Delaware, Porter Ford. It was a nice day and we had a great turnout. I took the car to the show where it made it's debut.  The car got a lot of attention and took home it's first trophy. The awards were based on spectator popular vote and a Dealers Choice award.

Sketched out an idea to use some dark tinted motorcycle blinker/parking lights to replace my standard parking light assemblies.  I had an old pair, so took my cutting wheel to them and sliced off the old light housing/lens assembly.   Made some brackets out of aluminum angle, and attached them with 10-32 screws and Riv Nuts.   In the process of coating these, and will use some black coated (not oxide) fasteners.   More pics to come.  Lights are really bright, so should be cool.
 

Thanks. I am very close to having it pass inspection road worthy. In DE cars newer than 1968 still need to pass emissions. Unbelievable!

Well, took her out for a drive. First time she move3d under her own power since 1983, when the P.O parked it. My wife snapped a few pics of it as I left the drive for a quick trip around the block...Still no windshield, but nothing too strenuous. Still needs and alignment and some muffler work and a DMV inspection....



After I parked it in the driveway, I came out later to put her in the garage and saw her illuminated under the evening sky and had to snap one more picture... Just love that Calypso Coral color!

1970 Mach 1 Walk Around With Start & Lights Small Size.mp4

These are the only pics I can find of the Hyperspark coil bracket I made to mount it to the Edelbrock Air Gap intake. Unfortunately I don't have any pic when I was making it or the dimensions. My goal was to keep the coil horizontal and below the air cleaner base.
Looking the coil and bracket from the front of the engine  between the distributor and the Sanden AC compressor.

If you are mounting your relays somewhere in the engine compartment, I would suggest using a relay box with fuse slots, or use weather proof relays. Here is what I did....

For what it is worth, here is the 1" drop template I received from Global West. I wrote the measurements all over it, if you want to make your own. The instruction are simple... Bolt it thru you existing upper control arm shack tower holes and drill two 1/4" holes thru the 1/4" holes in the template below the factory holes..

Also attached below are the alignment instructions, if you are using Global West's upper and lower control arms, Strut rods and Eccentric lock-outs... 
1967-1973 Mustang Plus 3 Upper Control Arms # MNR-733  (Sold as a Pair)Global West has engineered an upgraded upper control arm for 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, and 1973 Mustangs; the arm provides additional positive caster by moving the upper ball joint back towards the rear of the car.
This particular kit is used for street and handling applications. (Global West also manufactures a control arm for drag racing / street.)
The new Plus 3 Mustang arms are shipped assembled with billet cross shafts, Del-a-lum bushings and ball joints. The a-arms are black powder coated and the cross shafts are blue zinc (silver). Global West manufactures this product in its own facility here in San Bernardino CA.
Tech Information: Caster
With upgraded suspension and present tire technology, caster plays an important part for proper handling of the car. Caster does the following: provides straight line stability, has a self centering action on the front suspension, improves initial turn in during cornering and also resists pulling (right hand drift) caused by road crown.
The Alignment Adjustment and Limitation:
Caster on 1967-73 Mustangs is adjusted by moving the lower control arm forward via the strut rod. The strut rod is threaded at one end where the rubber bushings reside. By loosening and tightening the jam nuts you can pull the lower arm forward gaining more caster.
This was not an option on 1967-1973 Mustangs. The real limitation on how much caster you can get is mainly based on the rim and tire combination you are planning on running. The larger sizes limit how far you can move the lower arm forward because the tire runs into the lower portion of the front fender when the wheel is turned.
If this occurs, you will have to reduce caster, which is not the best answer. Now with Global West Plus 3 upper arms you will be able to get the caster you need!
Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the desired alignment. 

Coil Springs are stock height #: s-27 performance street with 640 pounds per inch.
Global West has engineered an upgraded upper control arm for 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, and 1973 Mustangs; the arm provides additional positive caster by moving the upper ball joint back towards the rear of the car.
This particular kit is used for street and handling applications. (Global West also manufactures a control arm for drag racing / street.)
The new Plus 3 Mustang arms are shipped assembled with billet cross shafts, Del-a-lum bushings and ball joints. The a-arms are black powder coated and the cross shafts are blue zinc (silver). Global West manufactures this product in its own facility here in San Bernardino CA.
Tech Information: Caster
With upgraded suspension and present tire technology, caster plays an important part for proper handling of the car. Caster does the following: provides straight line stability, has a self centering action on the front suspension, improves initial turn in during cornering and also resists pulling (right hand drift) caused by road crown.
The Alignment Adjustment and Limitation:
Caster on 1967-73 Mustangs is adjusted by moving the lower control arm forward via the strut rod. The strut rod is threaded at one end where the rubber bushings reside. By loosening and tightening the jam nuts you can pull the lower arm forward gaining more caster.
This was not an option on 1967-1973 Mustangs. The real limitation on how much caster you can get is mainly based on the rim and tire combination you are planning on running. The larger sizes limit how far you can move the lower arm forward because the tire runs into the lower portion of the front fender when the wheel is turned.
If this occurs, you will have to reduce caster, which is not the best answer. Now with Global West Plus 3 upper arms you will be able to get the caster you need!
Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the desired alignment.
Note: When using Plus 3 arms, there is now a right and left upper control arm. The original control arms (factory or first generation Global West Negative Roll control arms) are universal.
 
1966-1967-1968-1969-1970-1971-1972-1973-mustang-cougar-fairlane-falcon-ranchero-mustang-eccentric-loc-out-kit-instructions-loc-2.pdf

On my 70 MAch 1 I installed Global West Tubular Upper upper and lower control arms and their adjustable strut rods. Also used their Eccentric Loc-Outs. The kit provided a 1" drop steel template for drilling the lower upper control arm pivot holes. I installed Global West Coil Springs (#: s-27), which are stock height performance street with 640 pounds per inch. I welded in some of the BOSS track Mods... the Shock Tower reinforcements plates and the crossmember lower control arm eccentric anchor plates (I chose to use Global West Eccentric Loc-Outs instead).  I also converted my manual steering to a CPP GM style power steering setup and swapped my front spindles and drum brakes to stronger Granada front spindles, and calipers with slotted/drilled rotors. I just finished the restoration, and have had limited opportunity to drive the car, but so far so good. 
Here is the Global West Suspension product description...
https://www.globalwest.net/mustang-1967-1968-1969-1970-tubular-arms-strut-rods-front-suspension-global-west.html
1967-1973 Mustang Plus 3 Upper Control Arms # MNR-733  (Sold as a Pair)Global West has engineered an upgraded upper control arm for 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, and 1973 Mustangs; the arm provides additional positive caster by moving the upper ball joint back towards the rear of the car.
This particular kit is used for street and handling applications. (Global West also manufactures a control arm for drag racing / street.)
The new Plus 3 Mustang arms are shipped assembled with billet cross shafts, Del-a-lum bushings and ball joints. The a-arms are black powder coated and the cross shafts are blue zinc (silver). Global West manufactures this product in its own facility here in San Bernardino CA.
Tech Information: Caster
With upgraded suspension and present tire technology, caster plays an important part for proper handling of the car. Caster does the following: provides straight line stability, has a self centering action on the front suspension, improves initial turn in during cornering and also resists pulling (right hand drift) caused by road crown.
The Alignment Adjustment and Limitation:
Caster on 1967-73 Mustangs is adjusted by moving the lower control arm forward via the strut rod. The strut rod is threaded at one end where the rubber bushings reside. By loosening and tightening the jam nuts you can pull the lower arm forward gaining more caster.
This was not an option on 1967-1973 Mustangs. The real limitation on how much caster you can get is mainly based on the rim and tire combination you are planning on running. The larger sizes limit how far you can move the lower arm forward because the tire runs into the lower portion of the front fender when the wheel is turned.
If this occurs, you will have to reduce caster, which is not the best answer. Now with Global West Plus 3 upper arms you will be able to get the caster you need!

On my 70 MAch 1 I installed Global West Tubular Upper upper and lower control arms and their adjustable strut rods. Also used their Eccentric Loc-Outs. The kit provided a 1" drop steel template for drilling the lower upper control arm pivot holes. I installed Global West Coil Springs (#: s-27), which are stock height performance street with 640 pounds per inch. I welded in some of the BOSS track Mods... the Shock Tower reinforcements plates and the crossmember lower control arm eccentric anchor plates (I chose to use Global West Eccentric Loc-Outs instead).  I also converted my manual steering to a CPP GM style power steering setup and swapped my front spindles and drum brakes to stronger Granada front spindles, and calipers with slotted/drilled rotors. I just finished the restoration, and have had limited opportunity to drive the car, but so far so good. 
Here is the Global West Suspension product description...
https://www.globalwest.net/mustang-1967-1968-1969-1970-tubular-arms-strut-rods-front-suspension-global-west.html
1967-1973 Mustang Plus 3 Upper Control Arms # MNR-733  (Sold as a Pair)Global West has engineered an upgraded upper control arm for 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, and 1973 Mustangs; the arm provides additional positive caster by moving the upper ball joint back towards the rear of the car.
This particular kit is used for street and handling applications. (Global West also manufactures a control arm for drag racing / street.)
The new Plus 3 Mustang arms are shipped assembled with billet cross shafts, Del-a-lum bushings and ball joints. The a-arms are black powder coated and the cross shafts are blue zinc (silver). Global West manufactures this product in its own facility here in San Bernardino CA.
Tech Information: Caster
With upgraded suspension and present tire technology, caster plays an important part for proper handling of the car. Caster does the following: provides straight line stability, has a self centering action on the front suspension, improves initial turn in during cornering and also resists pulling (right hand drift) caused by road crown.
The Alignment Adjustment and Limitation:
Caster on 1967-73 Mustangs is adjusted by moving the lower control arm forward via the strut rod. The strut rod is threaded at one end where the rubber bushings reside. By loosening and tightening the jam nuts you can pull the lower arm forward gaining more caster.
This was not an option on 1967-1973 Mustangs. The real limitation on how much caster you can get is mainly based on the rim and tire combination you are planning on running. The larger sizes limit how far you can move the lower arm forward because the tire runs into the lower portion of the front fender when the wheel is turned.
If this occurs, you will have to reduce caster, which is not the best answer. Now with Global West Plus 3 upper arms you will be able to get the caster you need!

I like the black carpet, dash, console, and rear fold down. I think those parts in black contrast nicely against the red seats.
Thanks

1970 Mach 1 Walk Around With Start & Lights Small Size.mp4

A Project progress update....
Well, it's been more than 3 years since I bought the 1970 Calypso Coral Mach 1 M code with Vermillion Red interior and it's almost done. The Cleveland was stroked to 408ci with a Tremec 5spd, Eaton TrueTrac with 3.70 gears. Four-wheel disc brakes with Global West Front Suspension. Holley Sniper EFI and Holley Hyperspark Ignition. Lots of other mods.. Still needs the interior door panels and windshield installed.  I can't wait to drive it, but I still need to bleed the brakes again, Bleed the Hydraulic Clutch, take it in for a wheel alignment, and some exhaust pipe work. Then I can get it inspected and drive it. I'll post a walk-around video next.... hope you like it.
Still needs door panels and windshield and molding...


Here is the switch for the power windows and the toggle switch for the remote power side view mirrors. I mounted them in the center console where they are accessible to both the drive and passenger to avoid putting holes for them in the door panels.

The fold down rear seat with a pair of Kicker 8" sub woofers mounted in the trap door panel.

I was able to install a 17" x 9" rim with a Nitto 45 x 245 size tire in the trunk even with a fold down rear seat trap door panel. This spare wheel matches my front wheels and is a bit smaller than my rear wheels. I did it by relocating the hold down loop. First I sweeeezzzed the wheel in to the trunk where I wanted it, and then I placed the hold down bar thru the dust cap hole in the spare and marked where to weld the hold down loop to the trunk floor. The space is so tight, that I have to release the latch on the trap door when putting the wheel in, or taking it out, but once the wheel is completely in or out I can latch trap door again. Here is a pic of it....


Below is a walk-around video.... 

looks great.. thanks for the reply I really appreciate the help.  I was able to make the old lines work for a temporary solution. I will redo them all when I get the car home. going to tackle the fuel lines tomorrow.

Hi Rich,
I replaced all of the brake lines. Don't use 50 year old lines with your new brake system. I bought the 1970 Mustang kit from Inline Tube. All the lines will need some modification. I prefer to use Stainless Steel. but it is much harder to work with...hard to bend, and if you need to trim them, it is impossible to flare the ends with hand tools. So I would recommend using Steel lines.
The line from the rear to the Proportioning valve will need some bending to line up, as will the two front lines. The lines from the valve to the master cylinder will need to be bent. My conversion kit cam with rubber lines to connect the two rear lines to the rear disc caliper, but I chose to go all hardline instead. The rear lines after the junction "T" on the axle will need to be  trimmed and bent to line up with eh rear calipers. The critical part for me was finding the Banjo to 3/8" female inverted flare to connect the existing hardline fitting to the rear caliper. 
My front Granada disc brake assembly came with the flex lines. I needed to add an adapter to connect the hardline fitting to the flex tube. I also need to install a mounting bracket to secure the hard line and flex tube to the frame.
Finding all the right fitting adapters took a lot of time a searching and some trial and error. If you have access to a hydraulic flaring tool and know someone who can help you make the tubes with the right flares and fittings, then that may be a good route to take.
Finally, you will need to make some mods to the parking brake cable ends to adapt it to the rear brake calipers. Also you will need a GM Proportioning valve Brake Warning light plug. Our Mustang have two wire plugs and the GM plug is one wire. Just twist the two wires from you Ford harness together and connect it to the GM one wire.  Let me know if I can provide anymore info.

1970 Mach 1 Walk Around With Start & Lights Small Size.mp4

It was a Chevy mailbox ......

1970 Mach 1 Walk Around With Start & Lights Small Size.mp4

A Project progress update....
Well, it's been more than 3 years since I bought the 1970 Calypso Coral Mach 1 M code with Vermillion Red interior and it's almost done. The Cleveland was stroked to 408ci with a Tremec 5spd, Eaton TrueTrac with 3.70 gears. Four-wheel disc brakes with Global West Front Suspension. Holley Sniper EFI and Holley Hyperspark Ignition. Lots of other mods.. Still needs the interior door panels and windshield installed.  I can't wait to drive it, but I still need to bleed the brakes again, Bleed the Hydraulic Clutch, take it in for a wheel alignment, and some exhaust pipe work. Then I can get it inspected and drive it. I'll post a walk-around video next.... hope you like it.
Still needs door panels and windshield and molding...


Here is the switch for the power windows and the toggle switch for the remote power side view mirrors. I mounted them in the center console where they are accessible to both the drive and passenger to avoid putting holes for them in the door panels.

The fold down rear seat with a pair of Kicker 8" sub woofers mounted in the trap door panel.

I was able to install a 17" x 9" rim with a Nitto 45 x 245 size tire in the trunk even with a fold down rear seat trap door panel. This spare wheel matches my front wheels and is a bit smaller than my rear wheels. I did it by relocating the hold down loop. First I sweeeezzzed the wheel in to the trunk where I wanted it, and then I placed the hold down bar thru the dust cap hole in the spare and marked where to weld the hold down loop to the trunk floor. The space is so tight, that I have to release the latch on the trap door when putting the wheel in, or taking it out, but once the wheel is completely in or out I can latch trap door again. Here is a pic of it....


Below is a walk-around video....