Rich Ackermann

I am with ya... I needed 3 beers after writing that darn post. Let me know if I can clarify anything. 
The video created by American AutoWire is a bit more generic and they use their wiring kit as a reference point. I still have the original Ford wiring harnesses in the car, so I created the diagram using the Ford wiring diagram as a reference point. It helps me keep things in context, because I will surely forget what I did a month later and have to spend time retracing my steps to refresh my memory. 

Years ago a guy on another forum asked  if I could reproduced a dealer bumper sticker for him. So he gave me the picture on the left of the one on his bumper and I recreated the image filling in the damgaed areas and we had them printed.

Years ago a guy on another forum asked  if I could reproduced a dealer bumper sticker for him. So he gave me the picture on the left of the one on his bumper and I recreated the image filling in the damgaed areas and we had them printed.

I am with ya... I needed 3 beers after writing that darn post. Let me know if I can clarify anything. 
The video created by American AutoWire is a bit more generic and they use their wiring kit as a reference point. I still have the original Ford wiring harnesses in the car, so I created the diagram using the Ford wiring diagram as a reference point. It helps me keep things in context, because I will surely forget what I did a month later and have to spend time retracing my steps to refresh my memory. 

I am WELL acquainted with those boots!  I chased a rattling front-end noise for YEARS, tightening everything I could get a wrench on, replacing everything rubber I could find.  Finally, someone here mentioned to me to check those insulators, and lo and behold all of them were missing!!  What a pain!  Since this was my first Mustang, I didn't know that they were supposed to be there!  So yes, those have been replaced!  
Is it possible that the pins are sticking slightly, causing the flex in the caliper?  I lubed them when I replaced the brakes, but maybe not good enough.  I also had to take a razor blade and puncture the end of the boot, because the suction was causing me problems removing the pins.

I am jumping in to the middle of this thread, so just ignore it if this is not helpful....
You can permanently or temporarily bypass the NSS by connecting the two Red- Blue Stripe wires together in the four pin plug coming from the firewall. It the same as the loop-back Ford used on manual cars. I bought the manual safety switch wire harness for my Tremec. It had the correct factory 4 pin plug on the one end and the tremec plug on the other.

 
 

I used RetroSound RPOD4 Surface-mount pods for 4" or 4"x6" speakers. I place them as low and forward as I could, especially on the driverside to clear the parking brake pedal. I also brought my whole parking brake pedal mechanism out another 1/2" from the kick panel. The P.O. cut speaker holes in the interior quarter panels, so i was stuck with those holes or replace the panels. I found flush mounting speaker grills panted them to match  thw panels. I mount a pair of kickers in an aftermarket rear panel. Made brcket from 2"  box steel to mount the amp in the trunk drop area behi d the spare tire.



No speaker grills and no window cranks makes for a nice clean door panel.

Hi Vic,
Yes, I used Ford 1971-73 rubber door jamb boots. They have plenty of space to run wires, they look stock if that matters, and they fit in the stock door jamb and kick panel positions on a 1969-70.  The factory grommet hole sizes are larger on a 69-70 than the 71-73. If you have the luxury of drilling fresh holes, than the kick panel hole is 1 1/4" and the door jamb hole is 1 5/8". You can use the factory dimples if you have them. IF you are retrofitting them into a door that already has factory holes, then I suggest cutting off the grommets from the 69-70 harness and inserting the 71-73 boot ends into each of the 69-70 factory grommets or inserting them into another grommet of similar size. I had a factory door and a repro door, so unfortunately I had to do one of each. Inserting the boot ends into the factory grommets worked well, but just for added assurance, I used some black 3m rubber weather-strip glue to make certain they stayed together.
They are many to choose from on eBay. Here is a set of 1987 Ford boots that look to be the same as the 71-73 boots.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325160428669?hash=item4bb512647d:g:n0EAAOSwwp1iZDXr
Then again you could find a set of aftermarket boots.
https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/catalog/Wire-Management/Billet-Door-Looms/KICDLOOMBLBK/12-Inch-Black-Stainless-Steel-Door-Loom---Pair
Below is a picture of the 71-73 boots installed in my 70 Mach 1 (Top Left) using the factory holes, Installed in my 73 vert (Top & bottom RIght), and a pair of boots (Bottom Left). 

Congratulations and good luck! Is the paint shop painting the panels on or off the car?
I used a Mach 1 hood stripe temp from NPD. The shop laid down the black and then a mat clearcoat on, after painting the body color/clearcoat and sanding the clearcoat over the stripe area. The mat clear holds up real well to the elements and does not become shiny from wax. Others folks use Hotrod black. It has a nice rich black Mat finish that also holds up well. My rear trunk lid stripe is a tape stripe.
 

Not sure what the hole is for, but looking at a picture of mine before I disassembled it, looks like the threads of a screw coming thru the hole. I had small round rubber insulators at the base of each gauge terminal post and a thin gray strip of cardboard over the posts and between the metal gauge cluster body and the circuitboard. Pics below..

Nope: when you replace the circuit board, you have to loosen the nuts holding the various gauges.  The posts can easily contact the metal housing when reinstalling and tightening the nuts, shorting out the CVR output  and the gauges will not work.  This is a chronic problem for 69/70 dash clusters.  The cheapest solution is to remove the circuit card and place black electrical tape over the rectangular cutout sides so that the posts won't contact the metal housing.  Re-install the cardboard insulation pad, the circuit card, and tighten the nuts. 
As a check, you can measure the resistance between each post and the housing metal.  If you see 1 to 14 ohms, one of the gauges is shorting out, causing the others to short out too.  The ammeter, if shorted, will cause a massive short and because the lines are not fused, can cause a fire.  Bad design by Ford.

Hi Vic,
Yes, I used Ford 1971-73 rubber door jamb boots. They have plenty of space to run wires, they look stock if that matters, and they fit in the stock door jamb and kick panel positions on a 1969-70.  The factory grommet hole sizes are larger on a 69-70 than the 71-73. If you have the luxury of drilling fresh holes, than the kick panel hole is 1 1/4" and the door jamb hole is 1 5/8". You can use the factory dimples if you have them. IF you are retrofitting them into a door that already has factory holes, then I suggest cutting off the grommets from the 69-70 harness and inserting the 71-73 boot ends into each of the 69-70 factory grommets or inserting them into another grommet of similar size. I had a factory door and a repro door, so unfortunately I had to do one of each. Inserting the boot ends into the factory grommets worked well, but just for added assurance, I used some black 3m rubber weather-strip glue to make certain they stayed together.
They are many to choose from on eBay. Here is a set of 1987 Ford boots that look to be the same as the 71-73 boots.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325160428669?hash=item4bb512647d:g:n0EAAOSwwp1iZDXr
Then again you could find a set of aftermarket boots.
https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/catalog/Wire-Management/Billet-Door-Looms/KICDLOOMBLBK/12-Inch-Black-Stainless-Steel-Door-Loom---Pair
Below is a picture of the 71-73 boots installed in my 70 Mach 1 (Top Left) using the factory holes, Installed in my 73 vert (Top & bottom RIght), and a pair of boots (Bottom Left). 

Just adding my two cents to this thread...
I found that modern tire design and brands, such Nitto do not make many,  if any performance tires below 17 inch diameter. On my 70 Mach 1 M-code, I went with 17 US Mags Bandit rims and Nitto NT555 G2s. I have factory height big block constant 640 lbs rated coil springs up front with Global West suspension and a 1" Shelby drop (upper Arm Control). Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the optimal alignment.
In the rear I have stock height 138 lbs rated/Competition Handling Eaton rear springs and an aftermarket 1" rear sway bar. The US Mags Bandit front 17x 8 with a 1 Offset and 4.54 backspace with Nitto NT555 G2 245 x 45 tires. The rear US Mags Bandit front 17x 9 with a 8 Offset and 5.31 backspace with a big Nitto NT555 G2 275 x 50 tires.
I prefer the look of a larger width and height rear tire. I did have to roll my rear fender lips. I also lightly rolled the front fender lips too, but I don't think I needed to.

Here is a picture of the green wire with a black round female plug at the firewall. John is correct it is part of the harness that includes the wipers, tach wire, neutral safety switch, oil and temp sender wires, and PRNDL shifter light. The other end of the green wire should terminate near the airbox blower motor with a single square spade plug, along with a couple of other related green wires with square plugs.
 

Well, since it isn't OEM, then no one but American Auto Wire can tell you how its wired- we have no diagrams for their products.
However, if you have a tach, then you should have an alternator warning light instead of an ammeter, and the light should come on in "Accy", or "ON". The dual brake warning light should come on in "Start"- that's part of the prove out circuit. If so equipped you could have a seat belt light, and a park brake light. The seat belt light would come on with "Accy  or "ON", and go out in less than a minute. The park brake light would come on in "ON" or "Start" if the brake is on. 

Hi Vic,
Yes, I used Ford 1971-73 rubber door jamb boots. They have plenty of space to run wires, they look stock if that matters, and they fit in the stock door jamb and kick panel positions on a 1969-70.  The factory grommet hole sizes are larger on a 69-70 than the 71-73. If you have the luxury of drilling fresh holes, than the kick panel hole is 1 1/4" and the door jamb hole is 1 5/8". You can use the factory dimples if you have them. IF you are retrofitting them into a door that already has factory holes, then I suggest cutting off the grommets from the 69-70 harness and inserting the 71-73 boot ends into each of the 69-70 factory grommets or inserting them into another grommet of similar size. I had a factory door and a repro door, so unfortunately I had to do one of each. Inserting the boot ends into the factory grommets worked well, but just for added assurance, I used some black 3m rubber weather-strip glue to make certain they stayed together.
They are many to choose from on eBay. Here is a set of 1987 Ford boots that look to be the same as the 71-73 boots.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325160428669?hash=item4bb512647d:g:n0EAAOSwwp1iZDXr
Then again you could find a set of aftermarket boots.
https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/catalog/Wire-Management/Billet-Door-Looms/KICDLOOMBLBK/12-Inch-Black-Stainless-Steel-Door-Loom---Pair
Below is a picture of the 71-73 boots installed in my 70 Mach 1 (Top Left) using the factory holes, Installed in my 73 vert (Top & bottom RIght), and a pair of boots (Bottom Left). 

1969 Mach 1s had Quad tips and 1970 Mach 1s had oval tips.

Just adding my two cents to this thread...
I found that modern tire design and brands, such Nitto do not make many,  if any performance tires below 17 inch diameter. On my 70 Mach 1 M-code, I went with 17 US Mags Bandit rims and Nitto NT555 G2s. I have factory height big block constant 640 lbs rated coil springs up front with Global West suspension and a 1" Shelby drop (upper Arm Control). Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the optimal alignment.
In the rear I have stock height 138 lbs rated/Competition Handling Eaton rear springs and an aftermarket 1" rear sway bar. The US Mags Bandit front 17x 8 with a 1 Offset and 4.54 backspace with Nitto NT555 G2 245 x 45 tires. The rear US Mags Bandit front 17x 9 with a 8 Offset and 5.31 backspace with a big Nitto NT555 G2 275 x 50 tires.
I prefer the look of a larger width and height rear tire. I did have to roll my rear fender lips. I also lightly rolled the front fender lips too, but I don't think I needed to.

I pulled all the plugs already and cleaned them yesterday. There were all black with carbon buildup. I’m pretty sure I’m going to install a relay so the voltage will have less chance of fluctuating. When I metered the green/red wire with a fully charged battery, it still has fluctuation when cranking. It was still within the Holley suggested range but it’s more of a drop than straight off the battery so a relay should help with that. 

Went with Mach1drivers suggestion, helical gears. I went with the 3:50s

Just adding my two cents to this thread...
I found that modern tire design and brands, such Nitto do not make many,  if any performance tires below 17 inch diameter. On my 70 Mach 1 M-code, I went with 17 US Mags Bandit rims and Nitto NT555 G2s. I have factory height big block constant 640 lbs rated coil springs up front with Global West suspension and a 1" Shelby drop (upper Arm Control). Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the optimal alignment.
In the rear I have stock height 138 lbs rated/Competition Handling Eaton rear springs and an aftermarket 1" rear sway bar. The US Mags Bandit front 17x 8 with a 1 Offset and 4.54 backspace with Nitto NT555 G2 245 x 45 tires. The rear US Mags Bandit front 17x 9 with a 8 Offset and 5.31 backspace with a big Nitto NT555 G2 275 x 50 tires.
I prefer the look of a larger width and height rear tire. I did have to roll my rear fender lips. I also lightly rolled the front fender lips too, but I don't think I needed to.

Just adding my two cents to this thread...
I found that modern tire design and brands, such Nitto do not make many,  if any performance tires below 17 inch diameter. On my 70 Mach 1 M-code, I went with 17 US Mags Bandit rims and Nitto NT555 G2s. I have factory height big block constant 640 lbs rated coil springs up front with Global West suspension and a 1" Shelby drop (upper Arm Control). Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the optimal alignment.
In the rear I have stock height 138 lbs rated/Competition Handling Eaton rear springs and an aftermarket 1" rear sway bar. The US Mags Bandit front 17x 8 with a 1 Offset and 4.54 backspace with Nitto NT555 G2 245 x 45 tires. The rear US Mags Bandit front 17x 9 with a 8 Offset and 5.31 backspace with a big Nitto NT555 G2 275 x 50 tires.
I prefer the look of a larger width and height rear tire. I did have to roll my rear fender lips. I also lightly rolled the front fender lips too, but I don't think I needed to.

Our cars were designed for 14" and 15" rims and in my opinion it's hard to make modern rims look "right" on our cars. The wheel wells and rocker height aren't "right" for bigger wheels. Len69Coupe and Rich Ackerman pulled it off really well.

Just adding my two cents to this thread...
I found that modern tire design and brands, such Nitto do not make many,  if any performance tires below 17 inch diameter. On my 70 Mach 1 M-code, I went with 17 US Mags Bandit rims and Nitto NT555 G2s. I have factory height big block constant 640 lbs rated coil springs up front with Global West suspension and a 1" Shelby drop (upper Arm Control). Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the optimal alignment.
In the rear I have stock height 138 lbs rated/Competition Handling Eaton rear springs and an aftermarket 1" rear sway bar. The US Mags Bandit front 17x 8 with a 1 Offset and 4.54 backspace with Nitto NT555 G2 245 x 45 tires. The rear US Mags Bandit front 17x 9 with a 8 Offset and 5.31 backspace with a big Nitto NT555 G2 275 x 50 tires.
I prefer the look of a larger width and height rear tire. I did have to roll my rear fender lips. I also lightly rolled the front fender lips too, but I don't think I needed to.

I have the Holley Sniper installed on my 408 stroked Cleveland M- code. I also installed Holley's Hyperspark Coil, Distributor, and Ignition box. The fuel pump is also a Holley in tank 69-70 retro fit return-less pump with fuel sender. I have no complaints, with the Hyperspark the initial turning done by selecting Hyperspark when first configuring the ECU. You can refine it from there.  The return-less in tank pump you just use you exiting fuel line and modify both ends to connect to the pump and the sniper. 
Most important is to run adequate size wire gauge and connect the power to a clean dedicated right off the battery, Tao into the ignition wire as sloe to the ignition switch as possible to avoid issue with factory resistance wires. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks before or right after the O2 Sensor. Exhaust leaks before or close to the O2 sensor wreak havoc on the Sniper closed loop system causing constant fluctuation between rich and lean fuel conditions as the Sniper ECU tries to maintain the target air/fuel ratio.  If you have an original (unconverted Ohm driven) factory Tach, you will need to have Rocketman convert it to a voltage driven tach, or buy a product called Tach Adapter from MSD. The Tach Adapter converts the Sniper voltage tach signal to a Ohm driven signal. Essentially mimicking the factory coil output to the factory tach.
Finally, I have found Holley's Tech support to be outstanding. Available Monday thru Saturday from 8am to 8pm Eastern time and usually only a 10-15 min wait time.