Rich Ackermann

I am with ya... I needed 3 beers after writing that darn post. Let me know if I can clarify anything. 
The video created by American AutoWire is a bit more generic and they use their wiring kit as a reference point. I still have the original Ford wiring harnesses in the car, so I created the diagram using the Ford wiring diagram as a reference point. It helps me keep things in context, because I will surely forget what I did a month later and have to spend time retracing my steps to refresh my memory. 

Hi Vic,  Thanks for moving tips. We given away a bunch of furniture to friends and family who wanted it. We signed up with a Estate Sale company and they are going to sell or dispose of what we are not bringing, but even with that I have a basement full of stuff, the two cars, and all my tools, and extra car parts to store for about 3-4 months. Any suggestions on short term car storage? 
We are moving to a retirement community that just open up for lot sales off of Rt64, next to the Jordan Lakes state park (I think it is call) in a old historic town called Pittsboro. We will be near three of our grandchildren in the Apex area. We will be able to see them more often without having to make a 6 hour drive from DE, which makes my wife very happy.
Regards,
RIch

Hi Vic,  I have been following your build project for a long time, but its been a while since I visited the site, or posted anything. Your Electrical issue is a common problem with the 1970 model year (only), powder coating or not. The reason is that the parking lights and directional signals, which all share the same circuit and same bulbs (with the except of the turn signals in the standard Mach 1 hood), Ford, probably to reduce cost, went from a three wire to a two wire configuration on this circuit. The Ford electrical engineers, got creative and alternated the current across the two wire system. Essentially, on a 1970 model, the ground for each bulb is in series and not in parallel like it was before and after the 1970 model year, which a use a three wire parallel ground system, with the third wire being ground wire. What the two system does is sends 12v positive thru one wire and seeks ground thru the other and then reverses the positive and negative signal. In order to find ground, the system must pass thru each bulb (in series) on it's circuit until it does. Typically ground is found in the turn signal hood ground or under the dash. This passing thru each bulb becomes a problem when a bulb filament or the bulb fixture is failing. Finding the offending bulb can be frustrating. It's like find that one little burned out bulb on that string of 50 bulbs not lighting on the Christmas tree. Ford after seeing the error in their ways, switch back to a three wire  in 1971. 
By you adding a ground wire at the bulb fixture to the chassis or fixture housing, you essentially gave the system another place to find ground. You put part of the ground system back to parallel, where the system can fin ground, in some cases, without having to pass thru a bulb to get there.
When I restored my 1970, I added a thirds wire  for ground to each light fixture or I replace the fixture with the equivalent fixture from the 1969 model year which was designed with the third wire for ground. So my 70 Mach 1 has a 1969 valence and front and side three wire parking/turn signal light fixtures.
The third attachment, I don't know created it, but it was very helpful to me when I was chasing electrical gremilins.

Hi Vic,  I have been following your build project for a long time, but its been a while since I visited the site, or posted anything. Your Electrical issue is a common problem with the 1970 model year (only), powder coating or not. The reason is that the parking lights and directional signals, which all share the same circuit and same bulbs (with the except of the turn signals in the standard Mach 1 hood), Ford, probably to reduce cost, went from a three wire to a two wire configuration on this circuit. The Ford electrical engineers, got creative and alternated the current across the two wire system. Essentially, on a 1970 model, the ground for each bulb is in series and not in parallel like it was before and after the 1970 model year, which a use a three wire parallel ground system, with the third wire being ground wire. What the two system does is sends 12v positive thru one wire and seeks ground thru the other and then reverses the positive and negative signal. In order to find ground, the system must pass thru each bulb (in series) on it's circuit until it does. Typically ground is found in the turn signal hood ground or under the dash. This passing thru each bulb becomes a problem when a bulb filament or the bulb fixture is failing. Finding the offending bulb can be frustrating. It's like find that one little burned out bulb on that string of 50 bulbs not lighting on the Christmas tree. Ford after seeing the error in their ways, switch back to a three wire  in 1971. 
By you adding a ground wire at the bulb fixture to the chassis or fixture housing, you essentially gave the system another place to find ground. You put part of the ground system back to parallel, where the system can fin ground, in some cases, without having to pass thru a bulb to get there.
When I restored my 1970, I added a thirds wire  for ground to each light fixture or I replace the fixture with the equivalent fixture from the 1969 model year which was designed with the third wire for ground. So my 70 Mach 1 has a 1969 valence and front and side three wire parking/turn signal light fixtures.
The third attachment, I don't know created it, but it was very helpful to me when I was chasing electrical gremilins.

Wow, interesting.  Would like to see it installed with the pipes.  The driveshaft safety loop is a nice touch.
Pics of my 2-1/2" exhaust on my convertible, it is VERY tight.  It was only possible because Mike (Latoracing) did his magic and somehow got the pipes through there....
 
 
 

Modified my plate with sections of pipe to clear. 3" all the way out.

Maybe you already seen this aftermarket part from Tinman. I just learned of it, so It thought I'd pass it along.
https://www.tinmanfabrication.com/products/mustang-convertible-crossover-drive-shaft-loop-1965-1972

That's the one.  I looked all over for that one with no luck. Thank you

Yes all the time. I have seven of their CDs... Somehow I lost my original 1973 Colorized Wiring & Vacuum Diagrams, but I have a backup. The Forel manuals are good for Electrical and Vacuum details, and another CD with Parts and body illustrations, but to my knowledge, Forel does not have Engine Assembly. You have to get the shop manuals for that and other things. I have the Shop Manuals from David Graham Auto Literature. Forel also has on CD The Ford Master Parts Catalogs (MPAC), which  are packed with parts and numbers by year, model, etc, but are very cumbersome to browse thru, best to use the PDF search function. Finally, there Assembly illustration manuals published by Jim Asborn. There are also helpful, but the pictures are sometimes very faint and hard to read. I prefer a digital copy so I can zoom in on sections.
One more comment on Forel, years ago Forel required you to install software called PDF OwnerGuard License Manager to install the CD on you r computer. This software was always malfunctioning and preventing access to the manual. I would have to call them to get  it fixed, but fortunately they did away with it a few years back.
 
I say you can never have enough Information....:-)

 

Yes all the time. I have seven of their CDs... Somehow I lost my original 1973 Colorized Wiring & Vacuum Diagrams, but I have a backup. The Forel manuals are good for Electrical and Vacuum details, and another CD with Parts and body illustrations, but to my knowledge, Forel does not have Engine Assembly. You have to get the shop manuals for that and other things. I have the Shop Manuals from David Graham Auto Literature. Forel also has on CD The Ford Master Parts Catalogs (MPAC), which  are packed with parts and numbers by year, model, etc, but are very cumbersome to browse thru, best to use the PDF search function. Finally, there Assembly illustration manuals published by Jim Asborn. There are also helpful, but the pictures are sometimes very faint and hard to read. I prefer a digital copy so I can zoom in on sections.
One more comment on Forel, years ago Forel required you to install software called PDF OwnerGuard License Manager to install the CD on you r computer. This software was always malfunctioning and preventing access to the manual. I would have to call them to get  it fixed, but fortunately they did away with it a few years back.
 
I say you can never have enough Information....:-)

 

Hi Brian,
Did you try NPD. If all you need is the two plugs, then this kit may be overkill.
PLUG AND GROMMET KIT, (44), repro, contents:377901 seat access hole and top of cowl under fender (10), 376966 front fender apron, trans crossmember (10), 377977 frame rail at sway bar (2), 378923 rear shock access hole (2), 378770 inner frame rails at transmission (2), 377949 trunk floor pan plug above frame rail, side of cowl at door hinge, LH apron behind shock tower (5), 377678 heater hose firewall for A/C cars (2), 377936 inner frame rails at radiator and center of firewall (5), 377356 rear spring front bolt access hole (2), 383181 top of cowl under fender (2), 011202 quarter panel drain (2)
NPD Part Number : 011136-5K
Manufacturer Reference #'s: 376970,

Did my tinman connectors while the car was on the body cart. I would not do it the way I did on a convertible since there is a lot of body flex, but on a hardtop I had no concerns. Outside of the floor pans and front torque boxes my car was solid and all went well.

Well...Bob. Okay, I admit, I only drive it on dry sunny days... Mostly to car shows on the weekends, but I enjoy every minute that I am behind the wheel... and that's no bull :-)

It's been awhile since I posted anything, I've just been enjoying driving the car. While in winter storage, I decided to install a 1" rear sway bar and "CalTrac like" traction bars from CPP. Becasue I converted to rear disc, the factory style sway bars that mounts to the plate that is bolted to the axle/shock plate will not fit around the calipers. So I went with a CPP sway bar that clamps to the axle housing and bolts to the frame near the rear torque boxes. It also does not interfere with the new traction bars. See the captions with each picture below.

I've got the same rear sway bar from CPP. Haven't fit it up yet. Since I have 3x2 rear frame rails, I'll have to adapt the fwd mounting. Bought it cause I was concerned about clearing my fabricated 3-link set-up. The pics are good reference.

It's been awhile since I posted anything, I've just been enjoying driving the car. While in winter storage, I decided to install a 1" rear sway bar and "CalTrac like" traction bars from CPP. Becasue I converted to rear disc, the factory style sway bars that mounts to the plate that is bolted to the axle/shock plate will not fit around the calipers. So I went with a CPP sway bar that clamps to the axle housing and bolts to the frame near the rear torque boxes. It also does not interfere with the new traction bars. See the captions with each picture below.

Well...Bob. Okay, I admit, I only drive it on dry sunny days... Mostly to car shows on the weekends, but I enjoy every minute that I am behind the wheel... and that's no bull :-)

" I've just been enjoying driving the car. "
I'm calling bull$hit. No way a car with that clean of an undercarriage is being driven. Ya, I've got a bit of envy going on :)

It's been awhile since I posted anything, I've just been enjoying driving the car. While in winter storage, I decided to install a 1" rear sway bar and "CalTrac like" traction bars from CPP. Becasue I converted to rear disc, the factory style sway bars that mounts to the plate that is bolted to the axle/shock plate will not fit around the calipers. So I went with a CPP sway bar that clamps to the axle housing and bolts to the frame near the rear torque boxes. It also does not interfere with the new traction bars. See the captions with each picture below.

It's been awhile since I posted anything, I've just been enjoying driving the car. While in winter storage, I decided to install a 1" rear sway bar and "CalTrac like" traction bars from CPP. Becasue I converted to rear disc, the factory style sway bars that mounts to the plate that is bolted to the axle/shock plate will not fit around the calipers. So I went with a CPP sway bar that clamps to the axle housing and bolts to the frame near the rear torque boxes. It also does not interfere with the new traction bars. See the captions with each picture below.

Following the factory wiring schematic, the buzzer receives power from the driver side door jamb switches' red wire (3rd Wire) #158 when the door is opened, and ground from the ignition key (#159) when the key is inserted. Both events are needed to trigger the buzzer. The red wire also activates the convenience group seatback release actuators if you have that option for both seats. Wire #640 provides fused 12v when the the car is running.

Following the factory wiring schematic, the buzzer receives power from the driver side door jamb switches' red wire (3rd Wire) #158 when the door is opened, and ground from the ignition key (#159) when the key is inserted. Both events are needed to trigger the buzzer. The red wire also activates the convenience group seatback release actuators if you have that option for both seats. Wire #640 provides fused 12v when the the car is running.

That is the one I used with my TKO, but I cut the loop and connected to the TKO's NSS harness. You can use it to by pass the NSS or use it to make the NNS work.

I am with ya... I needed 3 beers after writing that darn post. Let me know if I can clarify anything. 
The video created by American AutoWire is a bit more generic and they use their wiring kit as a reference point. I still have the original Ford wiring harnesses in the car, so I created the diagram using the Ford wiring diagram as a reference point. It helps me keep things in context, because I will surely forget what I did a month later and have to spend time retracing my steps to refresh my memory. 

Years ago a guy on another forum asked  if I could reproduced a dealer bumper sticker for him. So he gave me the picture on the left of the one on his bumper and I recreated the image filling in the damgaed areas and we had them printed.