ralt962

det0326 is right.  You want the two angles (diff and trans) to be roughly the same.  They will off set the U Joint velocity changes as it rotates.  Also check the plan view of the Trans.  They can be slightly off creating the same issue in that plane.  

danno, Mach 1 Driver, and of course Midlife got it right!  It was the contacts in the fuse block.  To me they looked clean, didnt appear to have rust.  But I used wet/dry paper on all contacts plus used dielectric grease.  Problem gone.  Just took it for a nice ride.  NO cut out with turn signals or with the reverse lights.  
Thank you guys!  Makes the cruise that much better!
And  its still Candy Apple Red!

danno, Mach 1 Driver, and of course Midlife got it right!  It was the contacts in the fuse block.  To me they looked clean, didnt appear to have rust.  But I used wet/dry paper on all contacts plus used dielectric grease.  Problem gone.  Just took it for a nice ride.  NO cut out with turn signals or with the reverse lights.  
Thank you guys!  Makes the cruise that much better!
And  its still Candy Apple Red!

I would make mine slightly shorter. 1/4" Still takes load from the shock.  A little easier to get in.  But add the tab as shown.  The original Ford drawing doesn't have that.  
 

Good idea to switch to the pertronix system, just put the old points and condenser in a plastic bag and chuck them in the glovebox, nothing worse than being far from home and you have ignition porblems.

I've been thinking about the Petronix.  But occasionally I read where the system has died after a year or so of limited use.  
I tore down the carb.  Made sure all of it was cleaned out.  Checked the power valve, idle jets, seats, main jets.  Not sure if I blew something out. 
Changed the condenser,  checked all the electrical connections to the coil and starter.  
It fired right up.  I'm not sure what I fixed.  Buts now running great.  Did a short road trip since it was a great day here.  
Thanks for all the suggestions.  Somewhere in there I must have changed something in the carb or it was the condenser.  But I'm back on the road.  

All the info you need is in this video.  Ray
 
https://youtu.be/JMnQRlPQsSs

I used 1994 Cobra Brakes, and the Mustang Steve Conversion brackets.  Fits perfectly.
 

I used the Ford Kelsey/Hayes type 4 piston caliper power disc brake kit from Opentracker Racing. 
https://opentrackerracing.com/product/ford-kelsey-hayes-type-4-piston-caliper-power-disc-brake-kit-v8-with-manual-transmission-1967-1969-copy/
 
 

I have a similar kit as Mike65(Installed about 2012).  They work pretty well.  But I will say I did have one caliper have a seal fail on me already.  Could be my driving though.  The nice thing is I could get the parts from Napa to fix it.  They can get similar calipers, pads, etc as this was optional equipment on a few cars from I think 1965 through 1968. 

If I read that write it says 10.9 on one of the bolts.  Metric.  Doesn't belong on the Mustang.  

I used what used to be GPS, now LEEDS.  They are out of Niagra NY.   I bought the booster, master cylinder and pedal assembly.  All pretty reasonable.  So far so good.  I had to cut part of the dash away to make it fit and they provide the pattern.  I think that works with any of these.   I still have my FMX in the car.  Not sure if that will make a difference.  
https://leedbrakes.com/
 
 

One caution with the WCCC video is the bracket position on the glass is different between Cougar and Mustang.  This video states 1" from the edge.  Mustang is 3/4".  I know because I used the 1".  It still works since the guides are big enough.  But its best to use the right dimension.  

Here's the deal: There's 14 ohms resistance between the two posts.  If any post touches the metal backing, one post will have about 1 ohm resistance and the other will have about 14 ohms resistance to ground.  If both touch, each post will have about 1 ohm resistance.  If neither post touches, each should have 10kohms + to ground but still 14 ohms to each other. 
I understand the nut has to be there to tighten down the gauge itself, but there needs to be insulating material between the nut and the metal backing; otherwise it will be the same as one post touching the case.

For odd battery drains, after checking the obvious items like something turned on.  The first go to place is the alternator.  If two or more diodes short in the rectifier bridged, the alternator will drain the battery with the key off.  The alternator will still operate but the maximum amperage output will be a little low.  So if there is a drain using gordonr's method with a multimeter, disconnect the alternator and see if that has any affect.
If you don't have a multimeter, on older cars like these you can use a test light.  Disconnect the positive battery cable, clip the lead to the positive battery post and touch the positive battery cable end with the other end.  If the light glows, even dim, there is too much current flow and will drain the battery.

Here's my stock advice for finding excessive current draw that I provide every customer of mine:
First, always install electrical wiring with the battery disconnected.




Physically install the underdash harness with fuses.  Connect all underhood and taillight harnesses.

 
When ready to check out the harness, close all doors, turn off all lights, accessories, etc.  Make sure both battery connectors are disconnected.  Connect the positive battery cable to the starter solenoid.  Leave the negative terminal disconnected from the battery.  Then use a digital volt meter to measure the current draw across the battery.  Place one probe of the DVM on the negative battery cable terminal, and the other probe on the negative battery post.  Be sure that the DVM is set to amps, DC.  If there are no shorts in the wiring connections, the reading should be on the order of 30 milliamps or less.  Anything above 1 amp indicates some accessory is on; readings above 10 amps (may blow the fuse on the DVM) indicates a dead short.

 
If you have a short, disconnect all other wiring from the starter solenoid post where the battery connects and re-measure the current.  If current drops, the source is the underdash wiring harness or the harness from the starter solenoid to the firewall.  Reconnect the wiring to the starter post and then disconnect the underhood harness from the firewall and test again to isolate the source of the short. 
If the short is not in the underhood or underdash harness, the problem lies in the alternator or voltage regulator.  Disconnect each of these in turn to isolate the source.


 
If the short or high current comes from the underdash region, keep the battery negative side disconnected and remove one fuse at a time.  Measure the current as above.  If you now see low current, there is either a short or an item on that particular fuse circuit is on.  Turn off that item and continue checking.

 
Eventually, you’ll have low current readings with all fuses installed and all wiring connected.  At that time, and only at that time, is it safe to connect the negative battery cable to the battery.

 
Eventually, you’ll have low current readings with all fuses installed and all wiring connected.  This series of tests checks all of the battery directly powered systems.  To check the Accessory systems, now repeat all of the tests above with the ignition key in the ACC position.  The current with the key in the ACC position may be up to 1 amp or so.  When all of the tests are done and no anomalous current is noted, at that time, and only at that time, is it safe to connect the negative battery cable to the battery.

Good idea to stick with the 4R70W.  Actually a very good trans.  Used them in trucks for a long time.  Hold a lot of torque.   
The engine is mapped with speed load points with the mass air flow sensor before the throttle body.  Along with the output at the O2 sensor and the injectors they know what the torque is and try to optimize the trans shift schedule.   Way too much for what its worth.  The 4R will work great.

Good idea to stick with the 4R70W.  Actually a very good trans.  Used them in trucks for a long time.  Hold a lot of torque.   
The engine is mapped with speed load points with the mass air flow sensor before the throttle body.  Along with the output at the O2 sensor and the injectors they know what the torque is and try to optimize the trans shift schedule.   Way too much for what its worth.  The 4R will work great.

Going off the MM article is was pretty easy. Measure between the top and bottom door crease lines. Half that and thats the top of the stripe between the tires. Then place the rear one so its centred around the marker light and we ran a line from the top of the rear stripe to the top of the stripe on the front quarter.  The stripes are tapered from front to back so they can only go on one way.  The sides went on  easy . The back stripes are tricky though.
 

a 16 oz spray bottle with a little liquid dish washing soap mixed in works fine. that gel can sometimes be difficult to work with. many of the pros install them dry.

My advice whenever you get a new turn signal switch, is to put a piece of black electrical tape on the back side covering the rivets.  The rivets can touch the steering column under certain circumstances and that shorts out the whole TS switch.  It's good insurance and costs nothing.

I now work for Roush.  You'll likely recognize the picture.  Its a framed pic that is hanging in his museum.  Along with race cars he has a really nice 69 CJ.  

Mine doesn't fold down either (wish it did), and no there isn't a panel. Some tests show that adding a panel will stiffen the car up by a good percentage- I've forgotten the number, but something on the order of 15-20% I think

On a non fold down fastback there is a fiberboard package tray that goes behind the back seat. This leaves you with a deeper trunk for storage

Here is mine... installation  was easy