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ralt962

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Everything posted by ralt962

  1. I tend to agree. I like the real chrome vs polished aluminum. Fits the car better with the chrome accents.
  2. Great posting. Thank you. I have pretty much the same car as Machspeed. Will be on the road this spring. Is there a preferance between the steel/chrome Magnums vs the aluminum polished? I like the look of the real chrome.
  3. One last thing. Make sure the locators on the headlamp are lined up with the indents in the can. Sounds basic, but they continued to pop out and slide around. If they aren't lined up, nothing will work.
  4. I found I had backwards springs. I still had my originals that were rusted. But the new ones were 180 deg off. Lanky, are you using new fender extensions? I had one new one original. The original was easier. I did hook the spring in first then pushed the headlamp in to start the adjusting screws. Not easy and it is try try again. But on the new fender extension I struggled until I shaved a bit off the 3 nubs that position the headlamp can. With this tight of spring I dont worry about it being loose. But it made the difference about getting those on. I also used and original spring for that can. I took down the nubs a little at a time until it worked.
  5. I just put my carpet in. Same ACC. The vinyl edge ends up just over the front edge of the seat riser. That seemed the best fit. Install the vent covers as you are putting in the front piece of carpet. Cutting the front edge of the carpet at the cover takes a little bit of time to get correct.
  6. Very nice! Those pretty much are the ones I was looking for. Thank you guys for the help. Where possible I want to make it as correct as I can. Spent 37 years at Ford, almost all in Truck. It was a different world back in the 70's. thanks again,
  7. It is pretty interesting. These days the plants have very strict instructions on where to put labels. Mine is a Mach 1 built 1/9/69. Metuchen build. There are no labels due to the complete restoration. I've looked at a number of pictures of some of the real concours cars. Didnt realize that the various plant builds were so different. Mine is not headed for the trailer class so I'll get close. thanks for the replys.
  8. Can anyone point to place to find the correct locations for some of the basic stickers/labels on the 69. "Caution Fan" I can figure out, although I believe the Mach 1 didnt get one. Others like tire inflation, jacking instructions, service intervals, etc. thanks,
  9. Did the Lokar cable set up have the bracket for the carb you show in the picture? CJ Pony parts claims the cable comes complete with everything you need. Thanks I am from the other side of the world here.
  10. Going back together tomorrow. Then I can work to finish off the interior.
  11. Thanks. Amazing the way the gaps and margins where so accepted back when these were built. I've taken the seat apart so I can so a better job of centering it. Then I'll see how it goes with the top caps I just purchased. Original parts.
  12. Thanks guys. The tubes showed up today. Windows go in on Monday.
  13. I was able to buy both the caps and the cross bar. Thanks for checking for me. This will help fill in the gap. It sure seems that the gap along the seat to the 1/4 trim still seems wide. I have not put the back seat back in yet. Is there a width difference between a fold down seat and a fixed seat?
  14. Thanks. The tubes show up on Saturday. Rear window install doesn’t sound too difficult. I hope
  15. Good thought. I checked out Kentucky Mustang but could not find the same parts. So Ridge Runner, let me know if you run across the parts. It seems like everyone must have fold down seats so these parts don't get much volume. No one that I can find carries them. Thanks,
  16. I'm pretty sure I dont have that part. Although the package tray did attach to the top of the seat back. If you have an extra, please let me know the $$ if you would like to part with it. Interesting that no one makes those parts. I can see them in the shop manual drawings but nothing in any of the catalogs. It was fiberglass originally? I spent 37 years at Ford, I'll ask of few of my FCSD friends to see if they have access. thanks again for the info. rsteven1@comcast.net if you are interested in selling the top support.
  17. Looks like I asked this on another string. The sealer you talk about is it urethane? Then it sounds like you put something like the 3M black weather strip adhesive on the pinch weld flange ( on the top) then using the rope you pull from the inside to get the rubber gasket to cover the pinch weld flange. This this correct?
  18. Sorry Ridge Runner, one last question. Do you use any sealer on the rear window gasket? I dont plan to drive in the rain, but you never know. I live in Michigan. I saw one post where they used a little urethane between the gasket and the glass and some type of sealer between the gasket and the pinch flange. But videos I've watched dont show the use of any sealer on the rear. Thanks,
  19. The picture is from the basket case of a car when I bought it. After a major rotisserie rebuild, I'm finally putting the interior back together. But I cant find parts that would fill this gap between the fixed rear seat and the quarter trim panel. Shop manual shows a curved filler piece that goes between the seat and the panel. But Im struggling to find the correct parts. But it still looks like something is missing. They wouldn't leave this large of a gap. Anyone have suggestions?
  20. Thank you, Watched a couple of youtube videos. The help here has been great.
  21. Thank you Ridge Runner. If you use Urethane why would you use the flat seal? Are both used for the windshield? I have a guy coming out to do the windshield in a week or so. He was planning on just Urethane.
  22. Reading through all of these it appears everyone uses either butyl or urethane. Why does CJ sell a 3M Windshield Ribbon sealer for 69 and up? Why would they add a layer of rubber in there?
  23. Yep, sorry that was where I was. The heater box really shadows the air vent hole. No way to get that in. Left side is not so bad. But once you have the lower dash out it all becomes easy.
  24. Are you just talking about the vent covers? If so you can do those with everything installed. I just put mine in. If you are talking about the actual vent itself, then its harder. Driver side the park brake/foot pedal needs to be unbolted. Dont think you need to pull the cable. I did have the dash completely out at the time. But I would think the drivers side is doable. But the pass side is harder. I installed my heater case (IP was out of the car completely) then tried to install the air vent. I didnt see any way to install the air vent with the heater case there. One of the fasteners is buried back in plus I could not get the vent past the heater case. Had to take that back out before I put the air vent back in. If you can get to that back fastener and you break the top of the gasket, you might be able to just loosen the air vent and install the gaskets.
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