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Everything posted by ralt962

  1. Looks like you need a set of door reinforcement hinge plates also. I have one door set left. As Ridge Runner said, my gromets were molded to the harness.
  2. Very similar. They do have the shoulder bolt design. The Scott Drake belts I bought had to be hogged out a bit for the shoulder bolt. They should rotate freely but without much slop.
  3. Good picture. Thanks for the feedback. So those middle ears point down. Hard to see a reason why. But there must have been a process. I can see some design engineer trying to figure out a low cost way to fill the hole.
  4. Real basic question. I've rebuilt the trunk area completely. It was pretty rusted out. I bought the piece that fits in the fender area. Does it go on the LH side? How does it attach? Is the RH side open? I dont have much to work from. The PO left a rolled up card board piece that will be tossed.
  5. I would really recommend using the correct bolts. Seat belt loads when you need them are extremely high. It needs a tough bolt that gives but does not break. Similar to a grade 5 but not exactly the same. Try NPD. I've found their fasteners are always lower cost than CJs. Not sure why. I just added 3 points to the front of mine. I would suggest getting the kit that has the brackets and bolts already included. I had to fab my own brackets for the tensioner that sits on the floor. CJ's sells the kit with fasteners. NPD is good for just the bolts.
  6. All that stuff was interesting to work on, but I really love working on the old iron. Give me a Holley 4 barrel and a 69 Stag any day.
  7. Good idea to stick with the 4R70W. Actually a very good trans. Used them in trucks for a long time. Hold a lot of torque. The engine is mapped with speed load points with the mass air flow sensor before the throttle body. Along with the output at the O2 sensor and the injectors they know what the torque is and try to optimize the trans shift schedule. Way too much for what its worth. The 4R will work great.
  8. Nice looking part. I'm starting with the Holley throttle bracket. Lokar quoted saying you have everything you need. I guess not. Seems like this is something they would include. I'm going add a piece that is 90 deg and will go down to pick up the cable.
  9. Bigmal, Great pictures. I was just installing my Lokar this weekend. Yes I will need to add that lower piece of bracket to the throttle cable bracket. Your looks nice did you just weld on the lower tab?
  10. I might be able to get some dimensions of the 6R. But I do know the electronic controls of the 6R are much more complicated. The torque management system is buried in the PCM. Typically they need to work together with the engine controls as it reads the torque output of the engine, based on throttle position and the Mass air flow sensor. The 4R would be an easier fit. If you have the Coyote engine and the PCM the 6R would be a good match. Worked at Ford in Trucks for 37 years. Now working for Roush. Was never a calibrator but worked with them extensively over the years.
  11. 513A67-5A NPD part number. This is the drivers side. Shows in stock for both sides.
  12. Coker appears to be out of stock on the steel wheels also. There was a back order tag on it when I went to look for the chrome Magnum 500's. It looks like I will need to go to the Legendary or Drake aluminum wheels. I would guess the change in production or ownership has created a shut down in production of this wheel.
  13. I was able to buy one from NPD. I had one is pretty good shape. the other was a mess. I was lucky to find one. They are glued with a weather strip adhesive. I reinstalled mine the same way after a complete cleaning and polishing. Watch the sequence of assembly around the quarter window.
  14. I ordered 15X7 front and 15x8 rear from CJ. They just called to say they are back ordered with a low probability of getting them. Sounds like an alternative is Coker or Summit? Im going to check out the two alternatives to the true chrome Magnum 500 wheel. Do you know who makes the wheels for Coker or Summit?
  15. Headliner before is a must. There is a good series of Youtube videos on this. They are working on a 67 but the process is the same. Search on Mustang Headliner. Looks like two guys in their garage but its still very good info. I used my old windless material and cut small pieces as shown in the video. I was a bit slow. Took a couple of days.
  16. I originally put in Hookers from Summit. They stated it fit the 302 and 351. But that was incorrect. The 351 has a taller deck height. Headers need to be made specifically for the 351 or they will interfere with the body structure. I ended up with Dougs that I bought from Summit (they were great and took back the Hookers). The 3/4 Dougs did not need the PS bracket changed and fit in without moving the engine. Fit great with PS/PB and the FMX.
  17. Thank you, Looking forward to jumping into this. Good tips on making this look good. For us summer is coming.
  18. The molding is certainly dead straight. No curvature. The moldings I have are in bad shape. Someone used a sharp tool to pry them off so they small indentures in them all along. I'll see how much movement I can get in the fender. I doubt its an OEM fender. Sounds like both steps will be necessary. thanks for the tips.
  19. Looks similar to the other photos. This is a later 69 with the bezel like the one shown by March 1 Drive above. Cable routes in front of the glass. I have NOS mirrors.
  20. Looking for some advice on installing new rocker moldings on a 69 Mach 1. The car orignially came with mouldings so holes are there except for the screw hole at the back. Body guys must have covered over that one. Also the pass side fender came from a base car that had the "Mustang" badge on the lower part of the front fender. Those holes have been covered. My question is the molding is straight but the front fender seems to flair out so that I will need to force the molding back against the body to clip it in. Is this the norm? Or is my fender installation not quite right. Any other tips for installation?
  21. I have a 69 Mach 1 door panel that I can take a picture if it would help. I believe 69 changed styles of the adjusting knob orientation in February builds in 69. The cable and bezel are different. I'll pull out my old door and take a shot of it.
  22. Perfect timing. Waiting for spring to put stripes on mine. Paint was done last year. Getting ready for the final touches. Great article I would never have suspected the rear strip sloped downward.
  23. The video shown above is great. Very close to what you need. The one thing I learned the hard was was with the brackets and how they fit on the glass. If you clean out the old glue, chances are your bracket will have some amount of in and out movement on the glass. You can flex it. Nothing is there to center the bracket on the glass. If you glue it with the glass laying on the table, the bracket will hang down which will make your window proud to the door seal when you shut the door. I used the 3M product with the caulk gun. I would say its worth investing in the right tool. But with the glass laying down the bracket will have some level of movement up and down. Find the center of the bracket on the glass and either create the right size wedge or create a support that will hold it exactly in place as it dries. After one attempt, I was able to find the correct center up and down. When the door was back together I had a good fit to the body seal. My failed attempt the glass stuck out too far and even the adjustment at the bottom of the door was not enough to fix it.
  24. I found that Dynacorn makes a complete kit of all of these brackets. A bit excessive for one bracket. So if anyone is parting out a car or has extras please PM me.
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