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Everything posted by ralt962

  1. And welcome to the forum. Outstanding place to obtain any info on 69 stangs. You have a number of regular members living down under also.
  2. I had stock 351 W heads on mine. I've replaced them with Roush aluminum heads. Old push rods are 8.14". Came from an original stock engine. One head was cracked and the block was bad. I still have one original head left over. Pretty much everything else has been replaced.
  3. Interesting, just working on this. I can tighten one stud and keep the resistance in the 100K+ range, but tightening the other brings it down to the 2 ohm range. Is there supposed to be a rubber or plastic washer under the nut? Mine has a copper wavey washer. Seems that grounds it out.
  4. Between chassis ground and the gauge post I'm seeing between 2 and 8 ohms. Looks like they are grounding out. the 100K ohms mentioned by Midlife is for the stud to gauge case?
  5. Thanks, I made up a set today and went to use it on the drivers side. There was the fuel line. I thought there needed to be something added to keep it on the edge and note crush the line.
  6. An old Chiltons manual I have recommends using a support tool between the frame and front upper control arm. They claim shock damage if not used. I was wondering if that is something that is commonly used. Still finishing my car and still have the old shocks on it so have not worried about this issue. I have the drawing from Chiltons that shows the steel piece at 7 3/8" tall. thanks,
  7. I'm looking for the two smaller splash shields that are behind the head lamps. I have the rear ones. CJs seems to only sell in a set of 4. Please let me know if you have a set willing to part with. thanks,
  8. The guys at Roush taught me the trick of using an adjustable push rod then using a Sharpie mark the top of the valve stem. Roll the engine through and see where the roller hits. They adjusted the length based on this picture but also tweaked it to put the line in the center. 351W with Roush heads. You want it as close to the center as possible. No side loading.
  9. You guys nailed it. Used your method across the ground. Alternator disconnected dropped it to zero on my DVOM. I'm a little surprised I didnt have some drain like Gordonr mentions. It might not be able to read that low. But great find I would have spent a long time going through the dash harness before looking at the alternator. Thank you. Everyone has been extremely helpful on this site.
  10. Outstanding advice. New battery and I did install the harnesses with the battery disconnected, not in the car. I have a pretty good DVOM so I'll start there. It drained a new battery pretty quickly, so I'll do the alternator after checking the overall drain test. The target numbers will be very helpful. I still have to go back in and recheck the gauge nuts, likely shorted there since i'm not getting much gauge movement.
  11. It appears I have an issue with key off battery drain. I have not yet dug into this, but was wondering if there is a common issue out there that you have seen. I have a complete rebuild with new circuit board. I had gone through the harnesses completely prior to assembly. One issue from a different thread is the grounding of the gauge posts. I will be pulling the dash pad for the gauge issue. My original clock works and has been running but I cant believe that would drain a new battery. Great forum. You have been tremendous help through my restoration.
  12. Ive install a new CB but didnt realize there was a level of finesse needed to reinstall the gages. My turn signals and brake warning light I know work, but it seems my cluster lights are not working. Would they not work if the gages are grounded as described?
  13. Thanks yes I have screw hole. So it looks like the lanyard goes under your cooling seal but on top of the rad support. this helps. Thank you.
  14. Does anyone have a picture of where the Mach 1 lanyard attaches underhood. Mine was missing the lanyard so I dont have a starting point. thanks
  15. I was able to pop it out without removing the kick panel. Although new it was a bad switch. Replaced it and now working fine. Didnt chew up the paint which was fortunate. The park brake would need to go along with the kick panel. They basically go together. But thank you for the help.
  16. Minor question, but does anyone have a way or removing the plunger switch without chewing up the body paint? thanks
  17. I have the same Holley. I had the harness out of the car so I did wire it to the switch. Any time the key is on the wire is hot.
  18. Thanks for the picture. That eliminates one issue. Going to have to work on the bleeding and see if I can balance it. I did rebuild the distribution block, new switch and seals. I found an old spec book and it shows this light as being a dealer installed option in the convenience group. Looks like they had a number of dealer installed items.
  19. I know this is an old post, but someone might know here. If the car originally came with the switch, but it was no longer there, (so no wire was connected) would the dash brake light come on? Just did a complete restore of a Mach 1. New drums front and rear, new lines. I bleed the system but I still have the dash warning light on. I'm going to try to re bleed the system and see if it balances out. Its not driveable yet so I don't have an idea how well the brakes will work.
  20. Anyone purchase stripes from NPD? Wondering if those are Express like the ones from CJs.
  21. I found an orignal Mach 1 hood that was stored in a dealership since 1979. It had been crunched in the front so it was buckled (sad to say). But I had my paint shop match the flat back that was on this hood. Since it was stored for 40 years the color had not faded. If the sikkens and other options, dont work out I will asked the shop what specifically they used to match the original color. Just let me know.
  22. I have a Metuchen build also. So this is perfect. Thanks for the pics of the location.
  23. Does anyone have a picture of where the body tag goes? I still have mine in good shape but the shot guns are new and the orginal hole location is gone. It looks like it goes close to the hood hinge in the pass side.
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