ralt962

Thanks, that will make things a bit easier. Need to go pick up the tool. Fortunately I live close to an NPD. The car is finally ready after a 6 year restoration. Hope to have it out tomorrow.

Great suggestions. I also found the tool at NPD Thanks Ridge Runner. I will need to move the piston back in place. I have the light on steady. But looks like the tool is a good way to go. Thank you guys for the help. Close to finally getting this thing on the street.

Does anyone have a good bleed process to put the brake distribution warning light back to neutral and turn the light off? I completely rebuilt the system with all new lines. Cleaned and refitted the distribution block. It was working find and able to move back and forth. I've tried bleeding front first or rear first but don't seem to be able to get the light to go off. Suggestions on what to try next? I have a drum drum system.

That was the best video. You might check with WCCC they sell many used parts from cars they have torn down. I found some hard to locate parts like these.

I used what used to be GPS, now LEEDS. They are out of Niagra NY. I bought the booster, master cylinder and pedal assembly. All pretty reasonable. So far so good. I had to cut part of the dash away to make it fit and they provide the pattern. I think that works with any of these. I still have my FMX in the car. Not sure if that will make a difference. https://leedbrakes.com/

I also used the NPD part. It was soft and fit well. I did use sealer. So far so good.

I measured my original and its the same as you show here. I think I'll install that one and see if I can finally fix my leak. One issue I have is the rear main seal. Replaced it twice. Had it sealed when I built the engine on a stand. But now I have the linkage removed and the cross member so I can install the pan straight up and not slide it in over the linkage. Hopefully this will do the trick. thanks for the help

Thanks those are great pictures. I'll compare to my original. No idea if its original or not. Came with the engine. The one I purchased is lighter gage than the original and does have the spot welded drain plug. I'll check mine to your dimensions.

I'm trying to determine if the oil pan that came with my engine was OEM. I bought an aftermarket but the stamping area around the bearing has some suspect area. The original pan does have the drain plug threads (a thick metal piece spot welded into the pan on the inside. I would guess not many after market pans would have this feature. Have not found a part number on it. Originally painted orange.

Its actually a PPG Candy Apple Red. Its supposed to be the original color of the car. The Ruby red is a great color. At Ford (worked there for ever) the Ruby red was a very expensive color. We even had to change the paint facility for better equipment to make it work. That is a great color. Almost bought the same wheels you have. but went for the Magnums. I did find it on CJ Pony Parts. Bill has a very good video. https://www.cjponyparts.com/power-steering-control-valve-repair-kit-1964-1970/p/CVK/ I did add a small amount of gasket sealer (brown #2) as it looks like the control housing has some imperfections. Also found the hoses to the slave cylinder were original and had some cracks. So those are going. I've rebuilt it and we'll see in a couple of weeks how I did. This time not too much grease for the ball.

One thing to add. I've rebuilt the system. The nut that holds the long threaded rod indicates its an adjusting nut. someone have a tip on the adjustment?

I am about to rebuild my Control Valve again. I read here in forum not to put too much grease in the fitting......after I put too much grease in the fitting. So it leaked just as you suggested it would. I'm just looking for any additional sage advice when I rebuild this. One of our members sent me a great exploded view which will be helpful. I have a fresh rebuild kit with new seals. Looking for any further advice. thanks,

I used Doug's shorties. They fit easily. Actually you can take them out without moving the engine. Ceramic. Expensive but look great. One caution. In many catalogues they will claim the headers are for a Small Block Ford. Make sure they are actually for a 351 not a 302. It needs to specify 351. The deck height is different and will create significant interferences. I started with Hookers that stated fits small block Ford. I returned those and purchased the Dougs.

Thanks, my break in oil has been gone. I'm just on straight 10-30, but will jump up to 10-40 after I redo the pan seal again. I dont believe I have Comp Cams tappets. But what have you seen with those? Have you had one wear quickly?

I'm using non blend oil. It was fresh when I put the pan back on. Its not racing oil. Its a new build and thought it would not need the 10-40 oil viscosity (after break in). But agree something better with the flat tappet will be next. Given I"m not going anywhere with the leak and I have and winter setting in I'll likely drain this out anyway. Will go with the 40 weight and try GTX. I've had luck with that in the past also. Used Valvoline racing in all my race cars in the past. Built a number of engines during those days and never had issues like these. But then race car parts were much more expensive. I broke the engine in with zinc comp cams additive and Rotella (although the diesel oils dont seem to have as much zinc as they used to). The oil drips down the front cover of the trans cover plate vs coming down the oil pan. There is very little clearance between the trans cover and the oil pan. Appreciate your help. Its been a long time since I rebuilt a real motor. Disappointed in the quality of the "new" parts I've bought for this. Chased those issues all summer long.

Thanks guys. I have 10-30 Valvoline in there now. The odd part of this is that it started to drip after I shut it off. It may have taken my warm up time to move oil to that area. Not sure, but dripping after its off means that oil has gotten past the main seal or the pan gasket. I cant tell which. I need to go back under and run it again. Next time I will duplicate what you've done. I do have the original crank that is cross hatched. But this is more than weeping out, its a drip.

Not positive its the pan. But the 2 piece main seal I just installed seemed to fit snugly. Put a bit of sealer on the ends. Used the brown Forma gasket #2 to seal the corners and the pan gasket. Its odd that it took about 5-10 min. of running before it started to leak. And the engine was off when the leak started. Makes me think the pan in the seal area just doesnt fit tight. I was thinking crank case pressure. I do have the PVC set up to the air filter. Not a lot of vacuum but would still be negative pressure. 1969 Mach 1, did you have leaks with the viton? Felpro doesnt make it any more it comes from a different vendor. The main seal I pulled out came out easily. I could see that one leaking. Barnett468 do you put any sealant on the pan rails or just in the front and back seals? thanks for the help. Perplexing.

One new Viton rear seal and a new one piece gasket later. Started, ran for about 10 minutes. I shut it off thinking I've got this one. Then a small drip started followed by more. Anyone every get a oil pan that was not a good fit? I still have the original which I'm thinking of reconditioning. I'm running out of ideas. Next would be pull the motor so I can ensure i get the pan back in place. By the way the little plastic studs that hold the gasket, don't fit the gasket. The studs are too large to fit through the holes in the gasket or the pan. Not useful. Not sure Felpro checked this out.

Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. Looks like my next task. I used a one piece oil pan gasket from Felpro. I comes with those plastic screw in studs that hold the gasket in place. Saved a lot of wrestling last time I did a pan gasket. But this will be a new one. Looks like a tight space up there with the flywheel right there. This is why these cars are such fun!

I have a leaking rear seal. Not sure the cause but its fairly new two piece. Is it possible to replace the rear seal with the trans (FMX) installed? Drop the pan and pull the rear bearing cap off. What is in there is not a rope seal. Thanks for the help. Have not tried this one before.

One caution with the WCCC video is the bracket position on the glass is different between Cougar and Mustang. This video states 1" from the edge. Mustang is 3/4". I know because I used the 1". It still works since the guides are big enough. But its best to use the right dimension.

There is another forum that is just for Ford Transmissions. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/fordtransmissionforum/index.php

RPM, thanks for the help and the finger. I'll check that and the lever attachment inside. I'm getting help on this one. Hopefully this is all there is and I can get it on the street again.

I tend to agree. I'm no trans guy. Looks like I will be pulling it out of the car. Hoping for some quick fix.....likely not coming.

I have a fully rebuilt FMX ( built about 3 years ago), but just now getting it going. At first I seem to have normal gear selection. Had reverse at one point and Park. But now I have all drive. The gear selector has the detents. I can feel the detents in the trans selector by disconnecting the shifter and moving the lever. Park feels a little light for the detent. Other positions the detent is solid. But when the engine is running, it doesn't matter where the selector is, I am in drive. Not a good situation. All I can think of is the selector inside is disconnected or there is a complete mess inside. Its only been driven around the block since the rebuild. Looking for suggestions where to start? Can I get to the selector with the pan off? I"m not an auto trans guy.