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ralt962

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Everything posted by ralt962

  1. I agree. I replaced my pass side mirror. Just the glass. He had a great video. Cost was just $16. Or he has the entire mechanism.
  2. I went with a set of Roush Aluminum heads. Work great. Good power in all ranges. Need to go with a roller rocker with these. But its something I would have done regardless.
  3. From the kit I saw it looked like the flex lines are in the kit. But I have seen the lines also sold separately. There must be different kits? I was looking at CJ's https://www.cjponyparts.com/wilwood-front-disc-brake-kit-dynalite-4-piston-11-3-v8-spindles-1965-1966-1967-1969/p/DBF200-V/
  4. Sounds elementary, but oil level. If you are low and running a higher idle, it will bang into gear.
  5. Very nice looking set up . Thanks, I'll look into those and lankys suggestion above.
  6. Anyone out there have experience converting to Wilwood disc brakes in the front? I have drums all around. When I built the car I added power brakes with a new 1" master cylinder. I'll have to add the proportioning valve. Any other recommendations?
  7. Did you check the alternator arm relative to the crank pulley? I did that. Have an aftermarket chrome set of brackets. Just the clearance in the hole allowed the bracket to rub on the crank pulley but only in one spot. Not sure how far along you are on the build. I have a the slinger on a double row set of timing gears with no issue.
  8. See notes at the start of this string. 6R80 is a good trans. At Roush we still use it in the Mustang that is tuned to 775HP. But we spend time on the trans shift schedule. The calibration is key to making it run smoothly. Its dependent on the engine control system and torque management. I'm not familiar with the stand alone controller and how they make it work. As stated before its a torque based shift schedule which reads a map of the engine based on the throttle position sensor. With out the other engine sensors I"m not sure how they would make it work.
  9. Is that the brace to the bottom of the front valance panel in front of the front tire? Looks too bent for that but maybe.
  10. This sounds like you have been deep in this part of the industry. Did you work at an oil company? I spent a summer intern job at the Amoco Oil additives research lab in Naperville Illinois back in the 70's. But we were just working on the SAE levels. Great information. Now I have to check the details of what I put in.
  11. When the issue of the low oil pressure started and wrecked the cam, I've changed the oil and filter about 5 times. Last time I ran a magnet through the oil just to check and found nothing. I did change to a magnetic drain plug but I like the idea of the magnet under neath. Heads were new when I started this. They are Roush Aluminum heads with a roller rocker. Not sure what the spring rates were on this. All the other lobs on the cam looked good. It was just the #1 intake. I'll run it a bit longer (I've put about 10 miles on since changing the cam and running the break in) before winter and swap to fresh oil and filter. Appreciate the suggestions.
  12. Thanks for the recommendation. I dont want to go though another cam issue. So far its doing great. Nice to have 8 cylinders again.
  13. Thought I would write the final chapter on this one. Finally was able to dive into the engine. Bottom line it was a wiped cam lobe. The reason the lifter would not pump up is the cam had warn the lifter down so far that there was a hole in the bottom of the lifter. Oil would pump back out. So I was able to push on the top of the rocker and compress the lifter. There was no lobe left on the cam. almost machined completely round. Root cause of this was the fact that I installed a 302 pick up tube. New to building Ford engines I was fooled by the "small block Ford" designation. Fortunately I had so many rear seal leak issues that I constantly changed the oil and filter. I Must have washed all the bits out on a regular basis. One of my 5 replacements of the pan and seal I checked the bearings and all looked good, surprisingly.
  14. After a number of issues that are in a different post, I finally installed a new cam and lifters. I used comp cams break in oil for the 30 minute run up. Good oil pressure and temp the entire time. Seems like this one took ok. Recommendations on how long you keep the break in oil? Should I drive it a bit? Coming to the last days of driving up north so I dont have long before I have to put it away for the winter.
  15. Thanks, I did both. 1 piece gasket and high volume pump. Important part was the new shaft with the keeper on it. So if I pull the distributor it wont pull the driveshaft out again. It worked well. Did the engine break in for a new cam. 30 min at 2K plus. Any suggestions on how long to keep the break in oil in there?
  16. Question on the slinger. I had to replace the cam in the engine but rebuilt it with the same timing gears and chain. Was working fine. Now starting the engine I get a metallic rub in one spot as the engine rotates. I can hear it rotating by hand. Does it with the engine running also (ran for only a few seconds). Same crank, gears and cover. Not sure what the rub sound is? Slinger maybe?
  17. I pulled the pan off. The shaft was not in the pump drive but wedged outside. It didnt have the keeper on it to prevent this. Unfortunately a lot more work to this job. I'm picking up a new shaft this morning from NPD that has the keeper on it. It just have pulled up and out of the pump drive when I used the primer shaft to turn it a little for distributor alignment. I saw a You Tube video on a guy who made a tool that can go down and grab the shaft to lift it out or realign it. Mine was so jammed in that I couldnt get a grip on it it to pull it out. Thanks for all the suggestions.
  18. I'm going to fiddle for a while, but i'm guessing I'm back to the pan. Thanks for the quick feedback
  19. Didnt know this was even possible. The car had been running most of the summer. I had to replace the cam (different story). On reassemble I ran the oil pump with a drive shaft and drill. I was trying to drop the distributor in and It looked like I was getting close. I used the external shaft to rotate the oil pump a bit to help with alignment. On the next attempt I could get the distributor to drop down at all. I looked in and notice the drive shaft for the pump is now biased to one side and appears jammed in. Could the shaft have pulled partially out of the pump? Anyone have this experience? I cant seem to move it now. Any suggestions on how to get it back in? (other than take the pan off and drop the pump). I have the feeling this is coming.
  20. I have the bouncing speedo needle. New cable. Will greasing this settle it down? Does not make noise but the need bounces a lot.
  21. If I read that write it says 10.9 on one of the bolts. Metric. Doesn't belong on the Mustang.
  22. I followed the video in WCCC and it worked great. I started with the same issue. I also tighted up the adjustment so that it would stay firmly in place once set.
  23. Depends on what you are going for. The original, I agree with most I put in a TMI liner on a 69 sports roof. I had both front and back glass out. To glue it in I believe you need them both out. To stretch and glue the liner its much cleaner with no glass. There are some good videos on Youtube on how to do this. But it does take time and patience to pull the wrinkles out of it.
  24. Nicely done. You dont seem to have the usual wrinkles of the window gasket at the bottom. Looks good!
  25. Barnett, any idea why it would have gone bad? Used lots of assembly lube, used zinc oil and added a quote of what Crane Cams recommends. But I did have low oil pressure early on due to the wrong pickup tube. When they say Small Block Ford they don't mean 351. Found out the hard way. Not sure if that was it. But could have been. thanks. Pull the intake next.
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