ralt962
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Posts posted by ralt962
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Very nice fab work. I like the roll bar also!
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I worked at Ford for 37 years, now work for Roush in the Alternative fuels group.
He still has the 69 convertible that he raced back in those days.
I used to follow these guys in Pro Stock. Like 69 RavenConv I was a fanatic. Hot Rod Mag was a staple. Funny that I now work for Jack. Still meet with him every few weeks. Still a shape guy.
We do mostly Propane, but also have Cert on some natural gas.
The museum is a great place to stop in if you are ever in Livonia. Its open to the public.
13 hours ago, 69RavenConv said:Ha! The Gapp & Roush Pinto lined up against Bill Jenkins Vega -"Grumpy's Toy" - . Boy, does that bring back memories! I was a teenager back in those days and had pictures like that ripped from hot rod magazines taped to my bedroom wall.
The 351 Clevelands dominated Pro Stock in those days. I remember Jenkins and Sox & Martin were their closest rivals. Jenkins ran a Vega and a Monza Chevy and Sox & Martin ran Mopars.
I've been to the Roush facility in Livonia. We took a Ram pickup up there to run on the dyno. I worked for a company that modified it to run on natural gas and Roush did the EPA certification on the dyno. Maybe we passed each other in the hallway :) Someday I hope to get to one of his open houses.
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If anyone has the endcaps I could use a set. Fixed seat. Fills the gap between the upper seat back and the quarter trim.
The upper bar as 3pedal points out is the top of the rear seat I believe. Shop manuals all show and extra bar spanning the top of the seat attaching to the sides.
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I now work for Roush. You'll likely recognize the picture. Its a framed pic that is hanging in his museum. Along with race cars he has a really nice 69 CJ.
69RavenConv reacted to this -
Looks great. I tried buying the coupe sheet metal but it was much too large for the sports roof. I can likely use a piece of sheet metal to fab one like you have here.
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I ordered new clips from CJ Pony Parts. They claim the bottom clip here is for the windshield and the upper clip is for the rear window. NPD didnt distinguish. Can any one confirm this? I put a few on and they seemed to work in that order. But have not put them all on yet.
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Did any of you have trouble with the trim clips? I purchased new and have struggled to install them on the studs. I didnt want to try to hammer them in place yet.
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Attempted to install a set of new windshield and back glass clips to the studs. The repo parts I purchased from NPD didnt seem to work at all. Looking at the handful of parts it seemed there were a couple different stampings. They were loose on the post or didnt go on at all. I buy a lot of stuff from NPD and its usually very good. I live near a warehouse which is very convenient.
Suggestions for purchasing a better part? Anyone else have this issue?
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Question , do you put the rubber seal on the window first with the sealer, then apply some sealer to the pinch flange and try to install the window/rubber sealer to the car? I was doing a practice fit yesterday but I was putting the rubber on the pinch weld first. Then pull a rope for put the glass in. Although that way there is no way to really use any sealer between the rubber and the glass.
Best method?
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Courtesy of Jeff Speegle.
This is the other location. My Mach 1 must have had the exhaust system that required the hold in the middle location.
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I have the alternator adjustment arm (the slotted arm). Ford part with the Ford marking. email if interested.
rsteven1@comcast.net
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I just finished putting all my headlamps in. I noticed a couple of things. The new cans sit taller than the originals. This makes stretching the spring that much more difficult. I used the old cans on all but one lamp. I noticed that the new springs have the hook go the opposite direction. So I used an old spring with the new bucket. Still very difficult. This was with a new aftermarket fender extension.
So last ditch I shaved a little bit of material off of the three points in the fender extension where the can rides. This allowed it to sit in a lttle farther. That worked and I was able to get the headlamp in.
Use the original cans if you can, watch the spring direction and last ditch shave some off of the 3 little nubs. I wouldnt take much off. But it helped me.
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I just had this type question go through. Mine is a Metchen car. But I had most of the trunk replaced. I used a 3/4" hole saw and put the hole in the middle of the trunk. In the original sheet metal there is a raised portion of the angled wall in front of the tank. The picture above shows the raised portion of the sheet metal. My grommet to connector was only about 8" So I had to locate it in the middle of the trunk.
It looks like it was done differently in different assembly plants. One other member showed a picture similar to above where the wire goes all the way across the tank to the far wall.
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Thanks all very helpful. It looks like the steel is available, but was designed for a coupe. These pictures and information seems like it will fit the sports roof.
I like the little trap door shown in the pictures.
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I know, likely a silly question. But on a non fold down car, is there any type of panel behind the rear seat? It looks like there is a place to attach one but but I can find now parts that indicate a panel or something goes in that spot.
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Ground was fine. It was the battery. After charging for a while, turning on the turn signal didn't make the radio drop out. But when I turned on the lights and high beams, then the turn signal, the radio would drop out.
I'm sure a fresh battery will solve this.
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Selling a single head. The other was cracked. I put on a set of Roush Aluminum heads. It was crack checked at Roush and is good to go. I have all the old valve parts that go with it if interested. Best offer on this. I would just hate to toss an original 69 head. It has the correct casting numbers on it.
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I think you are right. I will check the circuits first and ensure I have all the right grounds. I didnt double check the ground to the radio yet. But the battery is old and been sitting for a couple of years. Likely the issue.
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Thanks, I will check the ground. That could be it. Also I believe the schematic shows the old radio light on the same circuit as the flashers and other dash lights. But then it wouldnt be on the radio fuse.
Is there a ground in the center of the fuse panel? I have a book that seems to show one.
I'll need to charge the battery up much better before I recheck.
I am a newbie on this site, but I have to say you all have been very responsive and supportive. Great Site!!!!
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My car came with the pump and the fitting pointing down. The front bearing was more than shot so I bought another pump. That one did come with the fitting pointing up. Likely incorrect. I still have the old one with the shot bearing and the correct housing.
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Looking for suggestions here. I went through the entire set of harnesses as they were laid out on a table. So I thought I was in pretty good shape. Now back in the car my one odd issue is that the radio will momentarily drop out when I turn on the turn signal. I checked the power to make sure it was coming from the correct fuse. The radio is a new Custom Autosound slide bar radio. This is when the engine is not running. Ignition in either the acc or run setting. Battery is not all that good, but I put a charger on it.
I connected the auto trans shifter harness and I thought that solved it. Not it happens most but not all of the time.
Looking for suggestions on where to go next.
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Thank you this is helpful. I went through all the harnesses over the winter and are just powering them up now. I was afraid I missed something. I'll look up the schematic.
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Do the front park lamps (under the bumper) go out when the headlamps are on? They are on when the headlamp switch is pulled to the first position but turn off when the switch is pulled all the way out?
I didnt have much to start with on this Mach 1.
Kick panel air vents.
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Are you just talking about the vent covers? If so you can do those with everything installed. I just put mine in.
If you are talking about the actual vent itself, then its harder. Driver side the park brake/foot pedal needs to be unbolted. Dont think you need to pull the cable. I did have the dash completely out at the time. But I would think the drivers side is doable.
But the pass side is harder. I installed my heater case (IP was out of the car completely) then tried to install the air vent. I didnt see any way to install the air vent with the heater case there. One of the fasteners is buried back in plus I could not get the vent past the heater case. Had to take that back out before I put the air vent back in. If you can get to that back fastener and you break the top of the gasket, you might be able to just loosen the air vent and install the gaskets.