ralt962

I have a reverse light housing PN C7ZB-15A509-A Complete housing. Wire was cut off but have a new connector in its place. Will plug into OEM harness. I would hate to toss this part is someone wants and OEM part. Just pay for shipping and its yours.

I'm looking for a nut plate that fits into the trunk hinge for a 69 Sport back. Just discovered that the shop that did the body welding must have lost one of the plates and made their own. Its garbage. You cant just buy the plate, NPD CJs both sell the entire hinge assembly but not the plate. Looking to see if anyone out there has one. thanks

Thanks for the information. Understand my issue now. I had the rear rails replaced and they installed ones that did not have the stay bar attachments included. Nice install on the track bar. My racing days are well passed otherwise that would have been a fun add.

bigmal, thanks, thats interesting. The bar I have is a simple wide U shape. It was clamped to the spring. Unfortunately I don't recall where it was mounted to the body. I've redone so much of the underbody (new trunk and all) that the attachments are no longer there. I assume you bolted to the body near the small step for the rear seat?

Does anyone have pictures of a rear sway bar installation. My car had one but I now have exhaust in the way. Just trying to see what ideas others might have for attachment.

Thank you for the links. No issues with fitting the back end of the lamp through the can? They look pretty large diameter. But so far no issues with their performance?

Has anyone had an recent experience converting to LED healights? Searching the forum brought up some older posts but the technology has changed more recently. Looking at CJ's and NPD there were no reviews listed for their LED headlights. thanks,

Are you talking about the bad that goes across the back of the seat or the side pieces that bridge between the bard and the side trim? I did check the usual sources and didnt find anything. Someone from this site had the end trim parts. Good group of people here. Suggest adding a note to the parts wanted forum.

I just have the base 20" radiator for my 351W. Al heads and about 10.5:1 compression. Last night I did the Dream Cruise traffic jam with temps around 88 deg. Stop and go for an hour and the temp was above mid point but held there. I was impressed it didn't react worse. I was considering the 3 row but so far happy with this. Although I'm not sure I would go there today for the actual Dream Cruise due to the heat.

I installed Willwoods base disc brakes last year. Soooo much better than my old drum drum. Easy to install the brakes. Only difficult part was using a GM proportioning valve. I only had a distribution block but added the GM valve. Had to replum the lines around the master cylinder. Good balance in the brakes and good stopping distance.

If you need a good video on the rebuild check out the WCCC. Its Cougars but the part is the same. Just look up the part and the video is there. He does a great job walking through the rebuild of both parts.

det0326 is right. You want the two angles (diff and trans) to be roughly the same. They will off set the U Joint velocity changes as it rotates. Also check the plan view of the Trans. They can be slightly off creating the same issue in that plane.

Sorry it doesn't say dielectric grease. But it is a Silicone grease. So how ever I put it in must have rubbed off enough to make good contact. But that was the issue and at this point I dont want to touch it. But some time this summer I'll pull it and wipe it down to see if it made a difference. you are absolutely right about non conductive. I'll wait until after the Dream Cruise, or this year the non Dream Cruise. I'm about 40 minutes from there. I'm sure it will be good just no Corp tents.

danno, Mach 1 Driver, and of course Midlife got it right! It was the contacts in the fuse block. To me they looked clean, didnt appear to have rust. But I used wet/dry paper on all contacts plus used dielectric grease. Problem gone. Just took it for a nice ride. NO cut out with turn signals or with the reverse lights. Thank you guys! Makes the cruise that much better! And its still Candy Apple Red!

Great suggestions, I'll go after the cleaning. I would guess that is a high probability. Next would be the connects I made to the radio harness. Crimps are always suspect. But hey the red has to stay.......that car has to be ticket me red. How else would I donate to the local authorities.

Just following up, yes I have the same issue going into reverse. So when the back up lights come on I get the radio cut out. Has anyone tried to just use the cigar lighter power to run the radio? Looks like a high gauge dedicated line that's always on. (I'd have to remember to shut the radio off each time). Have not gone in with the volt meter yet. But I'm most definitely going to try that. Could be loose or bad connectors that lead to more resistance. These bigger radios were not meant to be run on that old wires.

I have a candy apple red Mach 1. I used the NPD gold and black stripes. Went on easy and look great. Make sure you find the recommendations of where to install them. There are some good old articles on the location.

Have not checked the backup lights. Good idea to see what voltage I'm getting at the radio. See what is happening across the fuse. I think Ill stay away from the acid trick. I'd end up with a pile of goo. Thanks I'll give this a shot.

Mine was built in January of 69. I believe thats where mine was originally. Sound like there were not all that accurate in the installation. I'll drill a hole back there. Looks like Casgar had the small hole about in a good spot. thanks for the quick responses.

Does anyone have a location for the body buck plate that goes on the Right had side, top of the shot gun? It has one philips screw holding it down. It has the VIN and the various option and paint codes. I have new shot guns on the car so there the original hole isn't there. thanks,

I do have the AMR solid state VR. Checked the connections, but I need to get up into the fuse panel. It must be a voltage drop in there. Checked again yesterday. I have one of those slide bar radios. The digital display flashes with the turn signals when at idle. At speed ( change lane) the radio doesnt cut out. Has to be low voltage with slow speeds. I said my Hail Henry's. Didn't help much on that one. I started my career at Ford when the Duce and Lee were still there. Yes that was a long time ago......

I put in a new VR but I doubt it was a solid state. I'll check. But that would make sense. It does seem like there isnt enough power at idle. Although it starts great. Crank speed seems normal. I've had regulator issues on other vehicles. I thought the "new one" I bought would resolve this. I should know better by now. The number of "new" parts that I've replaced is pretty long at this point. I'll check the connection at the Fuse and connections. I had all the harnesses out on a table and went through each circuit but it could very well be the connector. Midlife being speechless on this one???? But you were the savor on my gauge issues some time back. thanks for the great suggestions. I'll let you know what I find out.

This one is odd, but may be due to a low battery. At idle, when I turn the turn signal on the radio cuts off for a couple of seconds. I've recently noticed that it doesn't happen as much when the revs are up while driving. I've charge the battery up now need to test the theory. But I was thinking could it be an inadequate ground somewhere? My alt gauge doesnt seem to indicate anything. All the other gauges work fine. Have not pulled the alternator to have it tested yet. Battery shouldn't be down if I'm driving it. Starts fine. Thought someone might have seen this before and a place to start looking. thanks,

Mine was mostly aftermarket. I did have to grind down the pinch weld flange to my the valance fit. The quarter panel was original, but the trunk and back panel with new, not OEM.

Not sure if anyone needs these but I just replaced my front drum brakes with disc. The drum brake hardware is all hardly used. Less then 500 miles between the rebuild of the drums to replacing them with disc. I can dismantle the backing plate to provide all the shoes through the cylinders. Just pay shipping.