albarnett_99

I went the stroker route with my 390. Purchased the kit, Stage X heads, intake manifold, and roller cam from Barry at Survival. The motor provides gobs of tire roasting torque. I am very satisfied! I would encourage you to get a copy of Barry's book to get ideas on how to proceed with a FE build. Also consider visiting the FE forum for research and results on different combinations. You really can't go wrong working with either Barry or Brent on a FE.

I am running the 427MR with no issues. Not sure if the 428CJ and 427MR are dimensionally similar or not. Another possible resource is Jay Brown's intake comparo book.

My car was originally a C6 but the PO tried to make the Mach 1 a Boss 302 clone by installing a Toploader. I drove the Toploader for 3 years before deciding to rebuild the C6. My plans are to install a 390 based stroker down the road... One of the things that sold me on the C6 besides the fact that it was original to the car was the fact that I could shift it manually if desired. A well built C6 (with or without a manual valve body) gives you that option along with piece of mind. In my case, it can handle up to 800 ft lbs of torque, far more than I plan on having with the stroker. Yes, manuals are fun to drive. However, as S Code 69 states, if you are on the street or on the strip the C6 is more effective. I got tired of the stiff clutch and no power steering. I also didn't want to have to worry about a missed shift or other damage. A big block, manual transmission, stiff clutch, and no power steering are fine in a straight line. They aren't much fun if you have to turn or change speeds (ie. on the street). I plan to keep the Toploader in case I change my mind later or decide to sell. I can appreciate how others may prefer a manual in a muscle car!

Jurisd: I am good with the C6! I had mine rebuilt over the winter and plan to install it this Fall. I decided to go back to the C6 for a few different reasons. Biggest reason was that my car came from the factory with a C6. I was also getting tired of shifting a very stiff clutch while steering with no power assist and no A/C!. Toploader also was due for a rebuild due to the 1-2 synchro being shot. Ideally, I would like to see a "correct" application for the vacuum piece if possible. So if anyone can take a pic and post I would really appreciate it!

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but can anyone post a picture of the fitting they use to connect the modulator line to a vacuum source? I am in the process of converting my S code from a toploader to C6 and cannot figure out the proper fitting that I need. If it makes any difference, I am running an Edelbrock F427 intake. Jurisd - any luck getting the trans to shift properly?

Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately, this is what I suspected. Would this problem be made worse if oil pressure was too high? Recently I have noticed that the oil pressure is buried on the factory gauge and will come down to H at stop lights. I have been reading up on the possible causes of this and was thinking of changing the oil and filter tomorrow (10W30 to 5W30 or other) to see if that helps both issues. If not, I will first try to solve the oil pressure issue with a new pump and pickup and go from there. Is there anything to be too concerned with a rear mail seal leak? From everything I have read, this pretty much requires yanking the motor to fix.:sad: I'm not ready to do that just yet!

Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately, this is what I suspected. Would this problem be made worse if oil pressure was too high? Recently I have noticed that the oil pressure is buried on the factory gauge and will come down to H at stop lights. I have been reading up on the possible causes of this and was thinking of changing the oil and filter tomorrow (10W30 to 5W30 or other) to see if that helps both issues. If not, I will first try to solve the oil pressure issue with a new pump and pickup and go from there. Is there anything to be too concerned with a rear mail seal leak? From everything I have read, this pretty much requires yanking the motor to fix.:sad: I'm not ready to do that just yet!

Hey guys, need some help trying to find the source of a pesky oil leak. I figured some of you who are more mechanically inclined could share some ideas. After taking the beast out for a long drive today, I parked it in the street in front of my house to research the source of a strange noise coming from right side when downshifting or launching hard. Car sat there for about 15 mintues before I decided to pull it back into the garage and park it on the 4 post lift for further inspection. After I parked it in the garage, I went back to the street and noticed a nice sized stain with fresh oil. While inspecting the frontend I noticed a bunch of oil on the dust cover, right frame rail, and on bottom of toploader case. I don't see any signs of leaks from rear of motor (valve covers, intake) or from oil pan. All bolts on intake manifold and valve covers are tight. Just replaced these gaskets in the Spring. Not sure where else to look. Any ideas or suggestions?

Hey guys, need some help trying to find the source of a pesky oil leak. I figured some of you who are more mechanically inclined could share some ideas. After taking the beast out for a long drive today, I parked it in the street in front of my house to research the source of a strange noise coming from right side when downshifting or launching hard. Car sat there for about 15 mintues before I decided to pull it back into the garage and park it on the 4 post lift for further inspection. After I parked it in the garage, I went back to the street and noticed a nice sized stain with fresh oil. While inspecting the frontend I noticed a bunch of oil on the dust cover, right frame rail, and on bottom of toploader case. I don't see any signs of leaks from rear of motor (valve covers, intake) or from oil pan. All bolts on intake manifold and valve covers are tight. Just replaced these gaskets in the Spring. Not sure where else to look. Any ideas or suggestions?

Hey guys, I am trying to decide on which headers to purchase and install into my Mach 1. Do any of you have any firsthand experience installing headers into a Mustang with a big block FE? I am currently looking at Hooker Super Comps, FPAs, and JBAs. Interested in any feedback on fit and any challenges with getting them to fit in such a small engine compartment. Would prefer to avoid any unncecessay rattles or clearance issues if possible. My current setup is a 390 with the CJ heads and manifolds, manual steering, and 4 speed toploader.

Hey guys, I am trying to decide on which headers to purchase and install into my Mach 1. Do any of you have any firsthand experience installing headers into a Mustang with a big block FE? I am currently looking at Hooker Super Comps, FPAs, and JBAs. Interested in any feedback on fit and any challenges with getting them to fit in such a small engine compartment. Would prefer to avoid any unncecessay rattles or clearance issues if possible. My current setup is a 390 with the CJ heads and manifolds, manual steering, and 4 speed toploader.